sixto |
12-27-2008 01:54 PM |
The steering damper is a horizonally mounted shock absorber parallel to the drag link. The drag link connects the pitman arm at the bottom of the steering box with the idler arm about the same place on the passenger side. One end of the damper is bolted close to the center of the drag link and the other end is bolted to the car's passenger side frame. Detach one end of the damper and check for resistance - it should present smooth, continuous resistance while compressing and extending.
With the wheels off the ground, wiggle the idler arm. Chances are there will be more than just noticeable play. If so, an idler arm repair kit is in order. The kit consists of bushings that go in the cylinder atop the pivot point of the idler arm.
While you're at it give the drag link and tie rods a good shake. If there is any play, if it's easy to twist any of those links or if the boots look like they've been torn for a while, consider replacements. Recently torn boots can probably be replaced without replacing the link. You have a choice of replacing tie rod ends or entire tie rods. Note that in each tie rod, one end has right hand threads and the other has left hand threads... like a turnbuckle.
Short answer - you can replace parts as they fail or replace everything in the steering train. It's a matter of when, not if. Don't forget the cost of wheel alignments when considering the economics of piecemeal repairs.
There's also steering box wear and LCA bushings to check. With the front wheels off the ground and the steering wheel unlocked, see if you can rotate the steering column shaft above and below the coupling. Or maybe the coupling is visibly worn. Then check for play between the steering column shaft and the pitman arm. There is some adjustment in the steering box which you can read about in the archives. This is a last resort! Grab a 19mm(?) wrench and make sure the three bolts holding the steering box to the frame (bolt heads go in from the wheel well) are snug. Don't turn them if they're snug as you don't want to disturb the thread lock. I don't know how to check LCA bushings other than visually. Oil or wetness is not a good sign but the 124 frame does a good job of shielding the bushings. Creaking noises aren't a good sign.
Sixto
87 300D
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