My 95E300D ( 112K) is starting to feel loose. If I remove my hand from the steering wheel, the steering wheel will move back and forth. It just wants to wander. Lug nuts are tight and the tire air pressure is OK. Any ideas? I will jack her up on Sunday and see if anything looks out of place.
Thanks, Jay

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Thank you, Jay
83MB 300D 241K "The silver coffin"
10 Prius lll 1K
95 MB E300D 120K Mable
02 Saab 9-5 Areo 131K
Cannondale SR500
www.thecornerstonefamily.org/

What all has been replaced since the car was new?

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91 350SD
14 F150 Eco
19 Fusion Hybrid
11 GT500

Nothing, that I know of.

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Thank you, Jay
83MB 300D 241K "The silver coffin"
10 Prius lll 1K
95 MB E300D 120K Mable
02 Saab 9-5 Areo 131K
Cannondale SR500
www.thecornerstonefamily.org/

The steering damper would be one of the first things to check.

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Thanks. How do I chech the steering damper?

__________________
Thank you, Jay
83MB 300D 241K "The silver coffin"
10 Prius lll 1K
95 MB E300D 120K Mable
02 Saab 9-5 Areo 131K
Cannondale SR500
www.thecornerstonefamily.org/

Steering damper, uneven tire wear, or overinflated tires.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

The steering damper is a horizonally mounted shock absorber parallel to the drag link. The drag link connects the pitman arm at the bottom of the steering box with the idler arm about the same place on the passenger side. One end of the damper is bolted close to the center of the drag link and the other end is bolted to the car's passenger side frame. Detach one end of the damper and check for resistance - it should present smooth, continuous resistance while compressing and extending.

With the wheels off the ground, wiggle the idler arm. Chances are there will be more than just noticeable play. If so, an idler arm repair kit is in order. The kit consists of bushings that go in the cylinder atop the pivot point of the idler arm.

While you're at it give the drag link and tie rods a good shake. If there is any play, if it's easy to twist any of those links or if the boots look like they've been torn for a while, consider replacements. Recently torn boots can probably be replaced without replacing the link. You have a choice of replacing tie rod ends or entire tie rods. Note that in each tie rod, one end has right hand threads and the other has left hand threads... like a turnbuckle.

Short answer - you can replace parts as they fail or replace everything in the steering train. It's a matter of when, not if. Don't forget the cost of wheel alignments when considering the economics of piecemeal repairs.

There's also steering box wear and LCA bushings to check. With the front wheels off the ground and the steering wheel unlocked, see if you can rotate the steering column shaft above and below the coupling. Or maybe the coupling is visibly worn. Then check for play between the steering column shaft and the pitman arm. There is some adjustment in the steering box which you can read about in the archives. This is a last resort! Grab a 19mm(?) wrench and make sure the three bolts holding the steering box to the frame (bolt heads go in from the wheel well) are snug. Don't turn them if they're snug as you don't want to disturb the thread lock. I don't know how to check LCA bushings other than visually. Oil or wetness is not a good sign but the 124 frame does a good job of shielding the bushings. Creaking noises aren't a good sign.

Sixto
87 300D

Drag link as well.

I figured 2 years for a drag link is pretty good.

__________________
91 350SD
14 F150 Eco
19 Fusion Hybrid
11 GT500

Thanks guys. I'm going to print your advice and check everything tomorrow.

__________________
Thank you, Jay
83MB 300D 241K "The silver coffin"
10 Prius lll 1K
95 MB E300D 120K Mable
02 Saab 9-5 Areo 131K
Cannondale SR500
www.thecornerstonefamily.org/

I didn't find the problem. I disconnected the steering damper and it moves smoothely. I didn't find any loose parts. The PO must have replaced the d.s. tie rod, it is a different color. I guess that I will have to take it to a shop. I'm in over my head.LOL
Thanks again for all the advice. Jay

__________________
Thank you, Jay
83MB 300D 241K "The silver coffin"
10 Prius lll 1K
95 MB E300D 120K Mable
02 Saab 9-5 Areo 131K
Cannondale SR500
www.thecornerstonefamily.org/

The steering damper should have some sort of resistance as you shorten or lengthen it. Is it easy to push or pull? If so then it's worn out.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

The damper did have some resistance. I just don't know what is normal. Maybe I'll just change it and see what happens. Thanks again, Jay

__________________
Thank you, Jay
83MB 300D 241K "The silver coffin"
10 Prius lll 1K
95 MB E300D 120K Mable
02 Saab 9-5 Areo 131K
Cannondale SR500
www.thecornerstonefamily.org/

With my reaction time, I won't quit my day job to go drag racing

Many OE MB left tie rods are avocado green. Maybe the distinct color makes it easier to install the correct part on the assembly line. Point is, if you saw an avocado green left side tie rod, it's very likely original. I've never bought tie rods from the dealer so I don't know if the ones they sell are also avocado green.

Sixto
87 300D

the last 123 tie rod i got from the dealer had 2 black boots.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Meyle Tie rods are green too...

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91 350SD
14 F150 Eco
19 Fusion Hybrid
11 GT500