240D engine removal Haynes questions
 

First I want to thank this forum for all of the excellent information that has helped me many times. Now, I would be very appreciative of some advice on my next project, which is to remove and overhaul my 240D engine.
I have the Haynes manual, and plan on following it exactly for engine removal. It and the shop manual call out removing the engine and transmission together as a unit. Since I do not need to do anything with the transmission, wouldn't it be just as easy (or maybe easier) to leave the transmission (automatic) in, and separate the engine from the transmission? If I do this, can I leave in the transmission support bracket? What problems could I expect? It seems fairly straightforward but I am wondering if Haynes had a reason for removing them together.

They get removed together because trying to pull the engine without the tranny is a real pain when it's still inside the car!:eek: Separating the tranny from the engine is still a pain, but it gets a lot easier when it is out of the car just because of what and where you have to reach to get the two apart. As someone who has tried both methods, I would really recommend you pull the 2 together, make your motor swap or whatever it is your trying to do, reassemble them and put it all back in the same way it came out.

As stated in the post above, pull them together, Leave the tranny cross member on the tranny (along with the flex disc) and remove the four 13mm bolts.

As a counterpoint, it's not that difficult to separate engine and transmission in the car. Does the same manual tell you to remove engine and transmission to service the transmission?

If you decide to leave the transmission in the car, don't forget to support the transmission with a jack since the engine provides forward support for the transmission. The downside is you can't roll the car with a loose transmission.

You have to release the torque converter from the flex plate, detatch transmission cooler lines (have to anyway to remove the engine), release the dipstick tube from the cylinder head, release the bowden cable from the throttle linkage and of course release the transmission from the engine. No need to drain ATF (but cap the cooler line fittings) or detach shift linkage and other transmission connections. Don't count on a loose transmission holding the rear wheels in Park!

Sixto
87 300D

Remember to use a bungee cord or rope to tie the torque converter in place. It can make a mess if it falls onto the ground.

+1

When I pulled the engine from my 300D i rigged a hand winch between the top of the chain on the hoist and the transmission (bell housing I think) - that way I could easily control the angle of the whole assembly to clear obstacles as I hoisted it up and out.

http://www.kalpol.com/mercedes/

What FI said. Push the torque converter towards the transmission when all the bolts are out in case it got friendly with the flex plate over time. If you're paranoid, you can wedge a rod through a hole in the bell housing to ensure the torque converter doesn't come off with the engine. Then anchor is with the bungee while the engine's out.

In a 126 SD you can lie belly on valve cover to work on a number of bell housing bolts. Can you do the same in a 240D

Sixto
87 300D

How high a ceiling do you need to pull engine and transmission? Do you have to go higher than the grill with the hood propped straight up?

Sixto
87 300D

You can stop voting. FI will tell you this is not a democracy :D

Sixto
87 300D

Also known as a load leveler, which can be purchased from everyone's favorite tool store, Harbor Freight

My 616s with manual trannys dont have to be 'tipped" so drastically as the 617s+tranny but I use the adjustable spreader bar, with the air wrench to turn the screw:D. It was only about $30 from HF.

A load leveler is the only way to go. But cut off that stupid little crank, weld on a nut and use your 1/2 in wratchet, much easier. I used one of those long nuts, about a 3/4 or 7/8 don`t remember.

I pulled my engine, but a 300d not a 240D, and I pulled eng and trans together. much eiser for me to separate the eng and trans once on the ground.

Also seems like it would be a PITA to try to align the two back up with the trans left in the car.

If the weather holds out, I have to go back through this again this week:mad:.

Charlie

Well I for one have learned something new today.

I pulled the engine out of a 240D this fall to put in a replacement I built up. I left the transmission in. The only difficulty I had was aligning them up for installation. I had not used a clutch alignment tool, so I made one up with a couple of dowel rods and a drill press. I had no problem the next time.

Wow! I'm overwhelmed by all of the great help. I think I will stick with removing the engine and transmission together, even though there has been success doing it both ways.
Thanks

Thanks!
 

"A load leveler is the only way to go. But cut off that stupid little crank, weld on a nut and use your 1/2 in ratchet, much easier. I used one of those long nuts, about a 3/4 or 7/8 don`t remember."

My 2 cents.. I would leave the tranny in the car if it has an automatic. The 240D bellhousing bolts are very easy to get at (even tops from under the hood) and re-connecting the trans to the engine is fairly easily when the flex plate and torque converter bolts holes are at the 6 o'clock position. A Manual trans on the other hand would rather take it out as a unit with a load leveler.

I've done both ways and I don't mind leaving the tranny in the car.

Thanks for the helpful advice.
Today I got through all of the preparatory steps in the Haynes manual up to disconnecting the driveshaft. I didn't run into any serious problems; I just hated to discharge my AC since it has been working well. I have heard that there is a way to do it without disconnecting the AC but I could not for the life of me see how. I think I could have easily done it all in one day except I had to help some inlaws move. Tomorrow I will finish getting it ready to come out and hopefully rent a hoist.

Just wanted to close the loop on this.
I got the engine out with the transmission on, trying to do it like the Haynes manual says. Although I was successful, it was not without problems. Based on the replies from members who obviously have a lot of experience at this, I could have also removed the transmission first. So here are some notes in case anybody else is doing this for the first time, without any expert help on hand:
1. If you remove the engine and transmission together, you need a "leveler" or some way other than just a chain to get the tilt right. I had a lot of trouble with this, and would have been better off (with my low level of experience) separating the transmission first, as some of the members suggested. When I did get the tilt right, the lift I rented would not go high enough to clear the front piece on the car. So, I had to lever up the lift on bricks to get it high enough.
2. When I put them back in, I will put in the engine and transmission separately.
3. I would have removed the AC compressor and maybe the power steering pump beforehand. This would not be that hard to do and would have given me some more room.
4. Haynes says to remove the hood. This is not necessary.

All in all, even though I spent more time than I should have, it was successful, and I appreciate all of the advice.

Glad too hear you made the "extraction". Having an adjustable spreader bar is almost a "must" as suggested by several folks.;) Thanks for an update, its always nice to hear the conclusion to the story.