95 E300D Runaway Issue
Gents
Advice is greatly welcomed here...and needed :D I've read through this post already, but need some clarification please: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/101404-run-away-diesel-why-does-happen.html What the car is experiencing is this...when cold (happens almost always when cold, but is starting to persist at more times as well now), when I start the car it will begin to run away if the accelerator is pressed at all. It will shut off with the key thankfully. I can then turn the car again and it will slowly begin to rev up. It's not consistent though...as it doesn't happen all the time. I've popped the hood and had my son start the car...acted normally, then have him press the peddle a bit and it starts to run away...so this time I manually pushed down on the throttle linkage to the IP and that solve the problem. I've played with the linkage, but not being familiar with how it should normally "play", I'm not confident that it's loose enough. What would be a sensible technique for determining if it's the linkage or the IP with this particular model? Also, will running ULSD without Diesel Power or some other additive to lubricate the IP cause this sort of issue...sticky IP? Additionally, the car, if cold, when I let it warm up for a bit and it's not running away, can frequently settle at just over 1k rpm when slowing to a stop and not go back to regular idle... Your input is valued...so please give some :D Much appreciated! Andy |
Sounds like a sticky linkage that needs lubricating.
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Sounds like a binding linkage to me as well. You could disconnect the linkage at the IP, then start the car and rev it up using the IP shaft only to see if it is doing the same thing. If the problem goes away, then you need to shoot some lube into the linkage and free it up.
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Do you mean the car is surging, or is the actual linkage moving? it very well could be a bad harness.
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"Throttle" linkages
Thank You HUSK and BABYMOG,
I stand corrected EDIT: 'Believe it or not the FSM calls for Hydraulic Fluid as the lubricant for all the "Ball + Socket" ends of the Linkages. (My thought may be that the environment of the sockets is towards Dust and other Gritty contaminants,and ATF is a great cleaner.) Also check your "Ball + Socket" connections for "WEAR" ['Caused by lack of Lubrication servicing by a/the P.O.] Worn sockets can cause "Binding". |
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I believe that ATF can be loosely described as a high-detergent hydraulic fluid.
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Shoot some WD 40 behind the throttle peddle. Move it up and down a few times to clean the crud and old grease. Re grease when the weather is better. Happy New Year
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I have the same car, and had the exact same problem. So I'm advising you from experience.
Check your engine mounts. A worn out, (or collapsed) engine mount(s) will cause the engine to tilt to one side, pulling the linkage with it. This in turn will cause the symptoms that you described. Try also loosening the tension on the accelerator cable. This may help as well. Phil |
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Took it down to the local auto supply to get seafoam to add to the tank...and some windshield washer fluid as well. Anyway, added the seafoam and started the car. The linkage was loose as can be...but I'm not suggesting the seafoam did anything, as it didn't have time to get through the system...I think it was the drive over to the parts store that did something...perhaps the IP being worked did the trick. I'll check the motor mounts tomorrow. I'll also check the linkage in the a.m. prior to starting to see if it's loose or not. Thanks for all the helpful input thus far. Andy |
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