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  #16  
Old 01-06-2009, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
Very odd since Mercedes uses the brown colored wires for almost all their grounds.....
If I made a mistake and put the fuse on the wrong wire will it still worK?

Most often there is only a (+) going to things so there is no choice as to which wire to put the fuse on.

For my own piece of mind I will check it again when I have some spare time.
But I cliped one lead of my Ohm Meter to the Black Wire with Red Dots Socket on the Connector a when I touched the probe to the Valve cover that is the one that had continuity.

Do they make 1 amp 2 prong blade type fuses? I have never noticed.

I just got back from re-checking the wires again and I put the fuse on the wrong (-) color Brown Ground wire.
I indeed could only get (+) voltage frorm the Black Red Dotted wire
Thanks for correcting me on this.

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Last edited by Diesel911; 01-07-2009 at 12:10 AM.
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  #17  
Old 01-07-2009, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MBNRA View Post
If your results are true, you have a problem because German Color codes specify the brown wire be the ground (earth)! I think you made an error somewhere. German color codes say black is line or feed and the red dots specify feed controlled from another location!
Thanks.
I was wrong the Brown wire as you said is the ground wire.

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  #18  
Old 01-07-2009, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by MBNRA View Post
What in bloody blazes is a "Webasto"?
It is a coolant heater independant of the car's engine. Mo knows all about mine as he installed it! Come to think of it I also got my aux pump from him!

Mo, I like the new pic of your wagon! I'll have to take a pic of mine in the snow one of these days.


In my observations the aux pump would run both directions. If you ground the brown wire it circulates one way. If you ground the black wire it runs the other way. If you plug it into the existing connector you don't have to worry about it as it has a tab that only allows it to be plugged the correct way. But since I bypassed mine I experimented with it.
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  #19  
Old 01-07-2009, 10:20 AM
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How's that webasto working?

Diesel911- glad you got it sorted out BEFORE you had any issues. I am going to make it a best practice to do that mod on any mercedes I see. and yes, they do make a 1 amp blade fuse. I am using 2's, because that is what I had on hand. but I will be getting some ones next time I think of it.
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  #20  
Old 01-07-2009, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mobetta View Post
How's that webasto working?
Since I have been running the aux pump in combo with it much better. It cycles on and off for awhile now rather than just cycling once for a few minutes. I am wiring it to a remote starter/door lock remote so that I can control it remotely. I have most of it installed but have not had any time lately. I also just put in a new battery this past weekend as the old one was not holding a charge so I couldn't run the Webasto as it would kill the battery and I would not be able to start it, now I can run it and there is plenty of juice left over to start the engine. I still mostly plug it in as it is simpler (until I get the remote option done). I need to add one check valve where the coolant line coming into the engine bay from the Webasto tees in the line as it generally flows the other way. Should be golden after I do those two things! The only other thing I can see is possibly one more pump on the main Webasto line to aid in circulation as the stock location helps but with all the loops I'm sure another would also help.
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1985 300CD
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1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD
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  #21  
Old 01-07-2009, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobetta View Post
How's that webasto working?

Diesel911- glad you got it sorted out BEFORE you had any issues. I am going to make it a best practice to do that mod on any mercedes I see. and yes, they do make a 1 amp blade fuse. I am using 2's, because that is what I had on hand. but I will be getting some ones next time I think of it.
Actually I have not done the swap yet.
The 1st time I did the job I was in a hurry and I was in the dark with my Wife holding a Flashlight.
I would like to improve my chances this time and work in the daylight when the car is available the next time.
Also I need to find some blade type 1 amp fuses as I have none.
If I cannot easily find any I wll have to change the Fuse Holder to a Bus type fuse.
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  #22  
Old 01-07-2009, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Actually I have not done the swap yet.
The 1st time I did the job I was in a hurry and I was in the dark with my Wife holding a Flashlight.
I would like to improve my chances this time and work in the daylight when the car is available the next time.
Also I need to find some blade type 1 amp fuses as I have none.
If I cannot easily find any I wll have to change the Fuse Holder to a Bus type fuse.
The buss type fuses in AGC are going to be the easiest to find and the ones at the lowest price! I'm glad you got that color code thing figured out! Here's what I've known to be true of basic primary circuits: Brown=ground
Black= line or feed
Red=directy powered accessories from the battery, also known as always hot.
Green=Ignition power. This is typical of gasoline engines, but diesel engines usually use this code too in say for instance, glow plugs, considered an ignition source.

Other colors imposed on the primary color are subcircuits and will vary by accessory.
Red dots on the black wire for instance mean that this is a feed line, but the decision to switch the current on and off is made by electronic brains in another location, like your comfort control.

Last edited by MBNRA; 01-07-2009 at 08:18 PM.
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  #23  
Old 01-07-2009, 08:15 PM
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in FLA the pump seems redundant, I unplugged mine right after reading about the fire in the other thread.
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  #24  
Old 01-07-2009, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by lutzTD View Post
in FLA the pump seems redundant, I unplugged mine right after reading about the fire in the other thread.
Lucky.. Here it gets down to 20-40 degrees in the winter without any snow!


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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBNRA View Post
The buss type fuses in AGC are going to be the easiest to find and the ones at the lowest price!
I ended up using forum member AMH's advice and get the parts from Napa.

The Napa # 7823101 water proof fuse holder is kind of bulky, it cost 5 bucks. There might be a better solution out there.


The 1 amp AGC fuse is less then a $1.
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I need to fuse my aux water pump-30afuseholder.jpg   I need to fuse my aux water pump-1aagcfuse.jpg  
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  #25  
Old 01-07-2009, 10:40 PM
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boating supply stores have waterproof fuse holders as well. but $5 sounds about right for any of them
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #26  
Old 04-24-2009, 01:03 AM
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1 Amp ATO/ATC fuse

Diesel911,
Blue Sea Systems (In A "Package" of Two each.)
"Tin Plated Non-Corrosive Blades"
Blue Seas Part Number 5235
From West Marine (They'll probably have to Special Order them...3-4 days)
[Sorry I didn't save the receipt,So I don't have the WM part #]
(2) packs of fuses was about $5.00 USD

Inline type ATO/ATC fuse holder (Black Rubber with W.T. Cap)
ANCHOR brand part # 607022
From the "soon-to-no-longer-be-in-business" Boater'sWorld
Two fuse holders $4.66 plus Taxation
[Whoa, these came from MARINCO their number 100208
(707) 226-9600 WWW.MARINCO.COM ]
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Last edited by compress ignite; 04-24-2009 at 01:12 AM.
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  #27  
Old 04-24-2009, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Lucky.. Here it gets down to 20-40 degrees in the winter without any snow!


Add link to THREAD





I ended up using forum member AMH's advice and get the parts from Napa.

The Napa # 7823101 water proof fuse holder is kind of bulky, it cost 5 bucks. There might be a better solution out there.


The 1 amp AGC fuse is less then a $1.
This is exactly like the one I bought at West Marine.
Wish they made it in black.

Charlie
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  #28  
Old 04-24-2009, 12:30 PM
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Hey DeliveryValve, did you quit selling your little "kit" for this? I bought one and thought it was a pretty good value for $25...
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  #29  
Old 04-25-2009, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by rcounts View Post
Hey DeliveryValve, did you quit selling your little "kit" for this? I bought one and thought it was a pretty good value for $25...
Not really,
The MB pig tails are the hard parts to get. I don't like destroying good serviceable parts in the boneyard just to get the pig tails. Currently I have a couple kits that are available.

1 amp fuse link for w123 Auxiliary Water Pump – Plug and Play!
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  #30  
Old 11-30-2016, 04:17 PM
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Lightbulb aux pump - brown wire and black

Quote:
Originally Posted by Graplr View Post
It is a coolant heater independant of the car's engine. Mo knows all about mine as he installed it! Come to think of it I also got my aux pump from him!

Mo, I like the new pic of your wagon! I'll have to take a pic of mine in the snow one of these days.


In my observations the aux pump would run both directions. If you ground the brown wire it circulates one way. If you ground the black wire it runs the other way. If you plug it into the existing connector you don't have to worry about it as it has a tab that only allows it to be plugged the correct way. But since I bypassed mine I experimented with it.


Question: if connected to brown wire, it runs one direction? and if on black wire it runs another way? does that mean the function to the pump will be different from original function if not connect to black wire? Thanks in advance!

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