and you could look into fluid cushion engine mounts like the chevy lumina van drivetrain mounts--and mount them above the centerline of the crankshaft but this is kinda overkill on this deeezel it's pretty smooth already compared to some that will rattle your bonez, i'm gettin the old ford ready to make a run down there, so i'll holler at you.

Ummmm...

__________________

1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)

You like that one? You should have seen an old truck I had. It came without a dome light of any sort, but had a big hole cut out of the dash. One day on a whim I figured out that a household wall switch and plate covered the hole nicely, so I installed it there, and ran wires to the cargo area where I installed an old cage light from a barn. I then drove to the hardware store and bought an RV light bulb that looks just like a normal incandescent lamp, but runs on 12 volts, and screwed it in. Voila, redneck overhead lighting!

...Hey, they do it in RV's all the time!

__________________
- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work

My '77 300D progress thread

so I replaced my starter and then promptly broke my throttle cable while out driving. that was fun turns out the angle of my bracket was such that the cable was rubbing, and eventually frayed and broke. I took the cable bracket off, heated it with the torch and bent it a little more. hopefully the angle is such that the cable won't rub this time.

I also made a set of "hazet" wrenches.

I started with two sets of metric wrenches from harbor freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42305), at $10 per set. also, now I have some spare metric wrenches.



I used the plans described in this thread:

Home made Valve adjustment wrench info



as per this post I ground the heads of the wrenches to be no thicker than 0.2". for those of you without a caliper, it turns out that all you have to do is grind the head down to be as thin as the handle.

Valve Adjust Tools



bent, cut, ground, ready for welding. I used one 7mm and one 8mm wrench as the "handles".



finished product:











I won't know if they work until tomorrow

Those look like they might just do the trick. They might be a little awkward to use since the handle wrenches are a little small, but when you only need to use them once a year or so, it probably won't be too big of an issue.

So... Horror Freight was out of nitrile gloves? Or, did you just pull a "KAdams4458", and forget to put them on? LOL!

__________________
- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work

My '77 300D progress thread

horror freight -- nice one i've really missed my nitrile gloves lately. it seems that horror freight never seems to carry size medium gloves. looks like I'll have to just order a set online.

i thought about using the 13mm wrenches as handles, but I decided to go with the tiny wrenches instead so that I would have a few spares of the important sizes (10mm, 13mm, etc). I'll report back on the ergonomics.

also, if one were inclined to not be quite as cheap as I, one would buy the long handled set of wrenches from horror frieght at $22 per set:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47067

that route would also work out better for anyone without access to a welder. In fact you should be able to do the entire job with a bottle MAPP gass, a vise, and a hammer (or a piece of pipe "cheater bar" if you want to get fancy).

Yer nuts! I guess I'm a bit of a purist. I WOULD however love you swap an 09 charger hemi V8 into my 116
In working with Chargers I've noticed ALOT of similaritie between a Mercedes and a Charger. the cooling.heating system is made by Behr, and there's Bosch and Maan parts everywhere.

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

____________________________
FACEBOOK: PANZER450

I am always finding things that they're out of, too. It would seem that part of their business model is to order a butt-load of each item, and split it between the on-line/catalogue warehouse and the retail store warehouse, (Yes, they have two separate warehouse inventories, for some reason,) and wait for them to be completely used up before bothing to order any more. A one to two month wait for any particular item to be back in stock seems to be the norm when they run out.


Gee, I wonder if it could have anything to do with the shared Daimler technology? LOL!

At any rate, these days the World is pretty small. I'd say it would be hard not to find a Bosch part under the hood of anything made in the past fifteen years, and Behr is a huge cooling system parts player. Heck, the radiator in my '93 Saturn was made by Behr.

__________________
- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work

My '77 300D progress thread

I realize that, but looking underneath the charger and throughout it's interior and engine bay, I never expected it to LOOK like mercedes styled assembly and engineering.

I'd swear up and down that the rear differential would only require hanger modification for it to work in a 116 or any other model for that matter. The engine (in this case a police hemi) looks like, aside from the electronics, a relatively straight forward swap.

Imagine a 425HP 5speed auto W116 with limited slip 3.80 or higher gears

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

____________________________
FACEBOOK: PANZER450

Having driven a Charger and inspected it completely, I do know what you mean. I do love how those things drive. Of course, you'd lose the handling, and that angry looking front end. LOL!

__________________
- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work

My '77 300D progress thread

I just finished building our city's newest police car just last week, a real slick looking black charger and we tinted the rear windows and it looks REAL mean with that Setina PIT bar on the front I'll have to post a pic the next time it's at the shop. It's nearly invisible at night. It's equipped with a PiPS license plate recognition system, and K and Ka band radar, lidar and 360 degree DVR. Definately a force to be reckoned with.

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

____________________________
FACEBOOK: PANZER450

well, I made the trip out to visit my parents place this weekend, which was 204 miles round-trip. this was the first real road test of project gm benz.

the summary is that I still have quite a bit of room for improvement

a quick calculation showed that I averaged just over 16 mpg, which was pretty disappointing. however, I appear to have a small leak in the lock ring of my gas tank, so I'm not sure how much diesel I left on the road...

I'm staring to think my gearing is just too tall for this engine. my speed seemed to max out at about 72 mph on the way there, and about 62 on the way back (this drop worried me quite a bit). I can only attribute the difference to the probably 20 degree temperature difference from morning to afternoon (it was unusually cold and windy in the morning).

I had the throttle down either 90% or 100% the entire way. I'm only making about 0.6 bar of boost (~8.8psi), and I've never seen any black smoke out of it (ie, fuel and boost could be turned up), but I'm somewhat concerned that this is just more torque than this transmission was meant to handle for long periods of time.

I was hoping that running at a lower rpm (don't have a tach, but my calculations indicated 2400rpm at 68mph) would have resulted in ideal fuel economy, but I was getting 30mpg on the highway when the engine was still in the w116 chassis. I'm sure a lot of that is due to aerodynamics, but I'm wondering if this engine works more efficiently if you let it wind up to a higher rpm.

So I may seriously consider swapping out my ring and pinion gears (I've already done this once, but to make the gears taller for the original gasser motor!)

Also, I'm going to put an EGT gauge in so I can get a better idea of how hard I am pushing the engine.

oh, I also adjusted my valves the day before the trip. some of them were WAY off. I ran three more 0-60 runs and my average time appeared to drop from about 29 to 27 seconds.

oh, I also wired a momentary switch for the glow plugs into the cab, and also routed some tubing from the fuel cutoff valve to a mity-vac in the cab. I can now start AND stop the motor without opening the hood! hallelujah!

I'll post in more detail (pictures, etc) later.

2400 at 70 is too low. Typical 300TD gearing would put that number closer to 3000 at 65-70

__________________
For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD
1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD

Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel

If I remember correctly you want 0.7 to 0.8 bar or 10.15 to 11.60 psi boost as was set from the factory. I set the boost on my car at about 11 psi figuring if it is in the factory range it should be safe but some day I plan on installing boost and egt guages then I can play with it a bit more.

__________________
1983 300SD
200000miles

these appear to be the options available to me using GM ring and pinion gears.



brand new ring and pinions are available from summit racing for $190 per set.

I believe my original gears were 3.73:1, so I'll start by swapping those back in. I may decide to try out some 3.42:1 gears at some point as a fuel economy experiment.