If anyone wants to convert C to F. Take deg. C times 1.8 then add 32.

If you wanna go from F. to C. Take deg. F minus 32 and divide by 1.8.

Piece of cake!!!

No Both my vehicles will do all year with stock thermos.Its just in Summer I carry more heavy loads,and do not want to tax my heat range.

I know plenty of people that take their thermostats completely out during summer... but thats only on gas engines.

Your diesel will drop in fuel efficiency if you are running too cool. ie.. heavily modifying your thermostat or removing it.

Oh yeah I watch temps.

My OM617 is in a Unimog and has been customized a bit I guess. The fan was extended out with the spacer in the picture. It was mounted straight out of the crank. Here is the broken bolt and spacer picture...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stppinz/fan.jpg

I will try to take a picture of what it was mounted on. There was no belt for a water pump so I assume it was moved...I don't know. No you have my interested. I will have to go check it out...

It will also overheat if the thermostat is removed. Unlike most g@ssers, the t-stat in these engines is a mixing valve. When it opens it blocks coolant flow into the engine block and redirects it to the radiator. Without the t-stat, the block and radiator ports will always be uncovered and coolant will take the path of least resistance (back to the engine block).

once the entire system is pressurized (head / block) the pump is not fighting any force other than moving the water

I cannot agree with the overheating w/o t-stat

Its basic hydraulics, every substance on earth flows the path of least resistance. Since both the radiator and block would be unobstructed by the t-stat, water would be flowing through both. But, cooling performance is significantly reduced since some hot water will always be recirculating back. If you want the most heat removal capacity on hot days, the best option is an unmolested and properly functioning thermostat.

Read the attachments. If Mercedes says its a bad idea, its probably a good idea to believe them since their R&D budget is a wee bit bigger than any of ours. ;)

thank you. By reading those attachments I have come to the understanding that the radiator is, indeed, the path of least resistance.

Why else would their R&D staff decide to use a t-stat to LIMIT flow through that region?

If the block and head were less resistant to flow, how would coolant ever circulate through the radiator to cool them under normal circumstances? It is only when there is too much heat, that the flow through the block and head is limited by the bypass valve so that MORE cooling will occur by sending coolant through the radiator in greater proportion.

ie.. IF you begin to overheat the engine w/o your t-stat, you have no chance of cooling it off b/c there is no mechanical means of directing flow based on engine needs. But until then, you are over-cooling the engine due to the nature of the system.

It appears that the t-stat is the dam, and once OT is reached, God opens up the flood gates to nourish the weak under-cooled. But the lord taketh as well, he reduces the flow through the block by proportioning the flood to the areas that need it more.

Clearly you don't understand how it works and are very resistant to learning how it works. I'll drop the argument right here because there is no point wasting my time in drawing it out any firther.

I agree with Forced on that.I built a 351c once in a mustang.We tried running with out a stat.It ran hot,because coolant never had time to cool.

Thanks Forced. Those images set the record straight for me about the role of the thermostat in these fine diesel vehicles... One thing that is appreciated about these cars in colder climates is the warmth they offer the driver (in comparison to modern vehicles) and I can now see one of the reasons how that comes about (as the radiator is only used in cold weather when "need be").

The stat in a benz is not an on off valve like a garden hose. Off on is how a traditional american made car stat works. With an on off valve you can cool fine without it but the car will run too cool under light loading.

A benz stat is a diverter valve. Its more like a switch in a rail line. When the engine is cool the stat diverts all water back to the head without ever going into the rad. When its hot it diverts all water to the rad and none to the head directly. It goes to the head after passing through the rad in that case.

If you remove the benz stat you will allow the water to seek its own course and it will send about half directly to the head and half to the rad. Thus when its really needing cooling its only cooling half the water and the car will run hot.

If its cold outside and the car needs to warm up half the water will continue to go to the rad and it will not warm up.

Drilling holes in the stat will only reduce its effeciency. A good stat working the way the system is designed to be operated cannot be beaten.

If you don't understand look in your repair manual for a diagram of how it works.

Your operating temperature also depends how much rust etc is in your system. A cooling system with rust will make the car run hotter than normal

How did you come to this rate? It is dependent on the restrictions in the head/block vs. radiator. You are saying they are perfectly equal.


this is what I am trying to say.

the natural course of flow w/o the t-stat allows only one rate of cooling. Therefore, until that rate of cooling is matched by an equal rate of heating from combustion, the engine is overcooling itself.

Once the equilibrium of heat production and cooling (w/o t-stat) is breached, you begin overheating and it cannot be controlled.

I have driven well over 200 miles in the summer w/o t-stat and continuously overcooled the entire time. ie..highway 65 mph

only until I climbed a mountain for 15 miles at a very slow speed on a dirt trail did I breach operating temp, and I never hit over 100*c in 85*f weather.