What does removing the EGR and ALDA entail? I doubt my EGR valve works after 300,000 miles of soot and cali emmissions.

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Regards,
Ian White

1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)

You should be more worried about your trap oxidizer if you have one still.

EGR is probably gummed shut, and has probably coated the intake very well.

ALDA signal line is probably blocked from EGR crap. When the ALDA sees 0psi signal it restricts the fuel flow. You should look elsewhere for more power (Adding a boost gauge and tuning the turbo to 13-14psi; valve adjustment; injector balancing; timing chain stretch correction/replacement) As a last resort you can can try adjusting the ALDA, but it's not recommended. I've removed mine, but I can also make 11psi standing still with a VNT.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Removing the EGR consists of plugging the vacuum line that runs to it with a BB, or removing it completely and installing a block off plate on the intake and exhaust manifolds. Removing the ALDA will allow full fuel even at low boost so you will create a lot of back smoke and high EGTs if you are not careful with your foot.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

First, search!

In addition to what has been said, a soda can can be cut up and placed under the face of the EGR to block any gasses that might leak past the valve. The ALDA should not be removed unless you have replaced your turbo with a VNT type turbo that can provide enough air at low RPMs.

Lance.......sorry to tell you that somebody hijacked your account......