I just got a '78 300D this weekend I want to get it going. This is my first Mercedes so I need a little help. I currently drive a 1984 Isuzu P'up diesel. I was told the 300D had incorrect IP timing. The guy put on a different one thinking the old one was bad, and never got the timing right or something set wrong. I have the old one also. I have only spun it over once and then pushed on the flatbed and brought it home. I have been searching the DIY's for a IP timing and the sort but no luck. Anyone have some suggestions. I suppose I need to check the IP timing and also look for the injector line placement...they look incorrect. Thanks!!!

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming

it says 616 but its the same method.

many have trouble understanding exactly what is going on in this procedure.

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The pictures shows a 4-cylinder...Mine is the 5-cylinder. Also is there any diagram for the injector line routing from the pump to injector (hard lines). I believe mine may be incorrect. Thanks!

it is the same procedure.

you have a 617, the procedure shows a 616. the pumps work the same.

Each element on top of your pump corresponds to the same number injector when beginning from one respective side. Start from the front of the engine and count towards the firewall.. 1 ,2 , 3, 4.

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It is the same method of timing as it is always timed from the #1 Element/Delivery Valve holder on the 4,5, and 6 cylinder Fuel Injection Pumps.
The Fuel Injection Hard Lines from the Fuel Injection Pump to the Fuel Injectors are numbered in the same sequance as the Engine Cylinders-#1 on the Fuel Injection Pump goes to #1 Fuel Injector on Cylinder #1; #2 goes to #2; #3 goes to #3; #4 goes to #4 and #5 goes to #5.

The Fuel Injection Hard Lines on Mercedes are not like a Car Destributor or other types of Diesel Fuel Injection pumps like the ones on VW Rabbits where the Fuel Injector Hard Line sequance follows the firing order.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

How does this pin work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Diesel-Engine-Injection-Pump-Lock-Pin-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ35625QQihZ001QQitemZ110337055394

Is it that simple to just install it and set it then be done. If so, I will spend the $25 to get it.

most likely, that will not work on your pump.

it is to be installed on the side of the pump and lock the cam in place once the right timing is achieved by moving the pump to and fro. (-15* ATDC)

or removing the pump and locking it in place and reinstalling at specified timing.

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check the driver's side of your pump on the bottom, adjacent to the primer pump, for a thin screwed-down plate with a large nut in the center that looks like its just begging to be removed.

I ll try to find a pic.

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Electric Fan for Diesel

follow this link and look @ post #21

it shows a pump with the aperture. It is towards the firewall right after the primary filter and primer pump

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w123 service disc has the procedure(s) on how to set timing.

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

Is there somewhere to download these or do I need to buy them? Does it detail how to use the pin tool, if that will even work. JT20 says it probably won't.....hmmm.....Sorry for all the questions. This is my first time really working on Mercedes. I saw people saying something about mbusa for the disc but I could not figure out where to go when I get there. Thanks for all the help.

just take your time and make sure you do it right. You can blow up the motor by not setting the timing right.

You can set the camshaft timing and the injector pump timing.

the documents are too big to attach on the forums

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

I would start by checking too make sure the cam and crank are timed close to spic, then turn the engine to the 24 degrees "mark" (compression stroke) and pull the IP, it should be on its mark (missing tooth on spline), That way you have all three, crank, cam and IP all very close and the engine should light off. then you'l want to time it and get it right on. If your chain has 5+ degrees stretch you might think about changing it while your in there. Good luck

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

So what I gather from all the research I have been doing....from the drip method, to the locking pin widget, to the electronic coolness that cost a lot, .....I would like to try the electronic one, but access is probably limited, so that leaves the drip or pin...I read that the pin can be difficult .....so do I need to just order one of the drip tubes and do it that way...it just blows my mind the the drip method is even remotely precise....lol.... also, could someone sorta write a dummy version of the IP timing instructions(like for mine, 1978 300D 5cylinder)

how do you have an '87 5-cylinder engine?

*edit* I see that was a typo.^^

you should post the details of your car into your signature.

go to your home page by clicking on your name and look in the left hand column. There should be an option for 'edit signature'

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