616 240D Decision Time: Parts and Prices to do a Rebuild - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Dionysius · #1 01-11-2009, 09:13 PM

My old faithful 1978 240D finally refused to start. The reason is low compression which I have measured carefully. It has massive (unknown) miles on it but to its last day ran and was giving fine service eventhough it was using a qt of oil per 300 miles. No abnormal noises and no vibrations were present. It did emit smoke on startup. I was using it as a fine reliable car right up to the last trip. It had the normal power and acceleration for a 240D.

I want to compile a parts/task list, and pricing for me to do a rebuild.
I would like to start a list and have others add to my list. Prices will be added in time.

Note: I am finding that tabular columns are not properly displayed but we can work with it anyway. I am using a slash ('/') as a column separator.

I request that contributors simply copy the current list and repost it with their edits so we can end up with a good list that can be used for future decision makers. I will maintain and repost the list as necessary on this Original Posting (OP). The end result hopefully will be a good reference guide for those of you who will be facing the same decision in the future. This is thus a live working document which will aid many here on this forum.
Here is a start. I am not finished but you add as you wish. I truly value all of your experience. I also want to make sure the tasks are listed in the sequential order in which it is best to execute them.

Part or Task/ Price or Hrs/ Rationale
Move engine from car to stand/ 16 hrs $168/ Own labor $168 is cost of Hoist and Stand
Remove head & accessories/ 4 hrs $0/ Own labor
Remove lower oil pan/ 1 hr $0/ Own labor
Remove upper oil pan/ 2 hr $0/ Own labor
Remove crankshaft/journal bearings/ 4 hr $0 / Own labor
Retract rods and attached pistons/ 1 hr $0 / Own labor
Send head to shop for rebuild/ $500/ Valves, guides
Examine cyl walls and measure / 1 hr $0/ Own labor
Examine block/ 1 hr $0/ Own labor
Bore and Hone existing liners/$210
New Cyl liners / $280 parts and labor/ Machine shop to press
Crankshaft/$120/ Machining cost
New big end bearings/ $??/
New small end bearings/ $??/
New gasket and seal set/ $115/
New pistons & Rings if necessary/$300 - $1000/Ebay source at $300
New timing chain w rails/ $180
New timing tensioner/ $0 /Reuse existing one

Cr from Texas · #2 01-11-2009, 09:17 PM

I don't have the experience to comment but as a point of discussion, I'd like to raise the question:

Would you be better off buying a rebuilt motor from Metric?

Dionysius · #3 01-11-2009, 09:22 PM

I appreciate the question.
No. It is up to $5000 for a rebuild at Metric? Way too much.
I know they do a great job but I feel I can do a decent job on my own engine and bring it in at $1500. Many others here will also want to go this route.

strelnik · #4 01-11-2009, 09:43 PM

Don't forget cylinder liners.

Are you doing any tests BEFORE you pull?
compression?
Starter amp draw?
GP system operation? GP resistance? amperage?
Just a few, just wondering. Saves time later.

t walgamuth · #5 01-11-2009, 09:43 PM

In my experience you will spend more than that on parts even without buying new pistons.

t walgamuth · #6 01-11-2009, 09:44 PM

I'd check the glow plugs. What is your compression readings?

Dionysius · #7 01-11-2009, 10:07 PM

I will try to answer each of you plus keep the OP up to date for the latest version of the list.

Strelnik: I will add in the liners but I may get away with reusing current ones...just honing?? This engine is ready to rebuild. Unknown miles over 300k miles, 140 psi compression on 1 and 3 and 170 psi on 2 and 4, 1 qt of oil per 300 miles. Glow plugs and fuel are all fine. Starter is fine. Injection pump is fine. This is a classic case of rebuild and get it ready for the next 300 k miles. Trust me if it could be started I would have done it.

t walgamuth: Thanks for input. See above for compr readings and glow plug health. I would like to think you will be wrong on parts total but this exercise will get us all on the same page. Give me your raw list and I will enter the data in the OP plus keep a running total. Trust me if I cannot save I will be more than happy to offload the job but $5000 plus is very high to put into a $2000 car. Now I know I am not doing this to sell the car. I am doing it for me so the value can be recalibrated in those circumstances.

Dionysius · #8 01-11-2009, 10:23 PM

I have added cyl liners. I have a question.
Can the existing liners be bored and honed to a next ring size by a machine shop?? If so is that cheaper than new liners??

Anybody care to give me an estimate for a shop to do either or both jobs??

Again I am keeping OP list maintained with all info from you guys so refer back to list as you go forward.

charmalu · #9 01-11-2009, 11:32 PM

There is a OM616.912 240D NOS Head on E-Bay with valve guides for $249.00. seller is Germanimportedparts_com. and free shipping.

Charlie

Diesel911 · #10 01-11-2009, 11:57 PM

I think the project is going to depend on if the Pistons can be re-used as the new liners are cheap compared to new pistons. (You will not know until they are out of the Engine.)
Another cost+ would be the Crankshaft if it needs re-grinding.
Last year there was a source of new made in Tiawan pistons for N/A 300D; don't know the cost or if the Seller had oversized or not.

I found this Ebay seller selling a set of 5 Oversized pistons for less than $300. Quality???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Diesel-Pistons-Rings-8mm-240D-300D-300TD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293 Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem250356580162QQitemZ250356580162QQptZMotorsQ5fCar Q5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

t walgamuth · #11 01-12-2009, 05:58 AM

You did not post compression readings you just said they were fine.

IMHO, an engine that runs and starts fine does not suddenly stop starting one day because its worn out. That should be a gradual thing.

#12 01-12-2009, 06:56 AM

Why not get a good used engine for a fraction of the price?

mplafleur · #13 01-12-2009, 07:07 AM

If you need new bushings pressed in on the small ends, I noticed yesterday that a machine shop charges $180 to bore them all and $11.25 per rod to install.

Liners can be had for about $30 each. I'd just get the first oversize ring set and bore/hone the current liners. Getting new liners installed and honed was by far the most expensive line item from my machine shop. It was $70 per hole to resleeve and hone.

A friend of mine was able to score a first oversize piston set for a 240D on eBay last year for a hundred dollars. Far better than the $1000 I paid for a new set for a 300SDL.

You can certainly search the web for the other various parts prices as well as using the "Buy Parts" button at the top of this page.

I'd also be looking at some R&R work on the head. Disassemble the head and check the valves and mating surfaces. There are specs in the FSM that you can check against to see if you need new valves and the head reground. Since you were using 1 quart of oil per 300 miles, you may want to consider getting new valve guides installed. New seals I think come in the head gasket set. A three angle grind on the valve seats will be about $100 or so.

blueranger · #14 01-12-2009, 07:50 AM

there is a great junk yard called pull a part... it is worth an 8 hour drive to go to one. I would go and get parts for the rebuild from the junk yard. A complete engine is about 100 bucks... and head is about 50... a piston is 8.

So what I would do is buy the entire engine. Then I would remove my engine. Then I would sit down with a measure and spec out each part...you may find you have 3 good pistons... and the junker engine has one. You may find your crank is bad and the junker is good. Then when you start measuring the tension in the valve springs and valves this will come in real handy... by doing this it may protect you from having to buy new parts...

Think about it... if I were rebuilding an engine and I had one bad pisiton and I had to go new. i would buy all new pistons... 800 bucks... If I had 2 bad valves and 3 bad valve springs i would buy a complete set I would not replace just the bad ones with new parts. But if i had donor parts I would feel good about putting in one valve and one piston from the donor engine.

Also I saw one in the Louisville ky junk yard... (4 cyl diesel) and the reason it was in there was because the body had rusted out so the engine may well be good. And 100 bucks would put you back on the road. And you could take your time with your rebuild in your garage.

I have had great success with junkyards... I changed my transmission about 5 years ago with a 150 dollar junker and I am still driving.

moon161 · #15 01-12-2009, 09:37 AM

I think stretch bolts on the head started w/ 123. You'll need to check possibly replace them.