Well, I am moving but I could use some advice - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mowoc · #1 01-12-2009, 10:17 AM

Greetings all, I would greatly appreciate your sage knowledge once more.

I have to move my 300 SDL from Chicago (BRRRR) to Macon Georgia. While I am heartened to make the move for warmth, i do have a couple of questions about making it:

1. It is almost time for the oil change according to my little sticker in the window. Now I know it is not a federal offense to ignore the sticker, I would feel better doing it if I had some input on it. I have about 6900 miles on the synthetic oil already in vesuvius. For ease I have used the dealer to do the oil changes. I know they are wildly expensive compared to other methods, but I have not had anywhere to change the oil in some time, and I trusted my original mechanic Mike (in denver) more than I trust the 17 year old pimply faced kid in jiffy lube. Any way, should I change the oil before or after the 800 mile run to Macon? That would put 7800 miles on the synthetic oil.

2. I definetely have a power steering leak somewhere in the lines near the pump. I am not sure if it is the line itself or the clamp. Any guide on how to fix this? I think I am going to leave this be until I get down there. I will just buy the appropriate fluid and check it on the way down. If I read the owners manual correctly it is ATF, right?

3. Finally, it seems that the car wants to pull to the left a bit. I have had it aligned and it was aligned fine. I have also thought that perhaps I am a bit over concerned about this. Could this be related to the power steering issue?

oldsinner111 · #2 01-12-2009, 10:34 AM

Oil should be fine,leak in steering near pump,if its the low pressure line ok.The high pressure well it could go and make a mess.Tire pulling,check air first,if old tire well ok,if new buy used tire,drive on it till you get it fixed.

vstech · #3 01-12-2009, 10:35 AM

I'd change the oil first.
atf is fine, but most agree that synthetic power steering fluid is best for the car.
if the pull is only on the freeway in the left lane, ignore it, it's just your car reacting to the crown in the road, if it's all the time, or during braking, then there is issues with the alignment and you should take it to a dealer familiar with the 126 chassis
enjoy the move!

awsrock · #4 01-12-2009, 10:36 AM

What kind of oil are you using? I'd probably get it changed, unless it is a top shelf synth, then you might be ok. You'll have to do it either now or when you get there, anyway.

As for the PS, I think most recommend PS fluid nowadays, due to the changes in ATF over the years. You should be fine with either, though.

Bio300TDTdriver · #5 01-12-2009, 10:49 AM

1. If the dealer is using Mobil 1 or another "real" synthetic, your car will be fine. I have the same engine and change mine at 10,000 with oil analysis to convince me that it is OK. If it is dino oil, change it.

2. Buy some fluid and have it fixed when you get there.

3. Who did the alignment? How are the front tires wearing?

mowoc · #6 01-12-2009, 10:51 AM

Thanks, now for the fun Oil question (please don't virtually stone me if this starts an oil thread).

The dealer here (chicago) wants to charge me $55 for a regular oil change but $129 for a synthetic.

What do y'all think? I know I am going to get ripped off no matter what, but $129 for an oil change seems absurd.

Oh, and how would I know which line is leaking on the Powersteering fluid? Is the upper or Lower the high pressure line?

awsrock · #7 01-12-2009, 10:56 AM

What dealer?
If you figure that they are using the OEM filter ($15) plus a top shelf synthetic, then you'd be around $80-95 without labor. Even though it doesn't take long, add another half hour of labor, and that is about right.
When needed, and in town, I've taken my car to Burdi Motors near O'Hare. I don't know how much you would save, but they can get you an aftermarket filter for a bit less. They are good guys.

mowoc · #8 01-12-2009, 10:58 AM

The two dealers I talked to were MB of Chicago (downtown) and MB of Westmont.

SD Blue · #9 01-12-2009, 10:59 AM

1) It depends a little on the "history" of your run time. An engine that is started and stopped frequently without complete warm-up will build up contaminants more than one that is taken on longer trips and has good overall engine warming.
2) The leak depends on whether it's on the high pressure side or the low pressure side. The high pressure side will be crimped fittings and if you are seeing a leak, even seepage, there it should be changed immediately as a failure will likely toast the pump. The low pressure side is likely to be a clamp or hose. Pretty easy fix usually taken care of by slightly tightening...don't over-tighten. Many times I have found someone has overtightened the clamp and chewed the hose up in the process.
3)I doubt it's a power steering issue. Where did you have it aligned and what process/equipment did they use? Many will say the dealer is the best (~$150) and others have gone to facilities with the laser machines. Some of them tell the mechanic exactly which adjustment to make, where it is and how much on the computer screen.
Another factor is wheel bearings. I noticed on mine that incorrectly adjusted wheel bearings caused a slight pull. They must be adjusted with a dial indicator guage as the tolerance is virtually impossible to do by feel or the "back off by 1/3 turn" methods. This may be something you want done at the dealer, while the alignment is performed. It will depend on the severity of the pull.

Of course, you will need to make the $'s decision as to how much you can afford, how much it can cost if not repaired immediately, etc.

TX76513 · #10 01-12-2009, 11:03 AM

Check you air pressure in front tires. Both my 126's are extremely sensitive to tire pressure.

mowoc · #11 01-12-2009, 11:03 AM

The hose leaking has clamps on it that are tightened with screws, so it must be the low pressure hose. It leaks intermittently (not all the time)

.

The pulling is also intermittent. It sounds like it is due to the crowning of the road as it happens mostly in the left lane.

tangofox007 · #12 01-12-2009, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mowoc

The hose leaking has clamps on it that are tightened with screws, so it must be the low pressure hose. It leaks intermittently (not all the time)

.

The return hoses have a habit of failing from the inside out after 20 years or so. Fluid will start to seep through the hose walls. Any manipulation or bending of the hose will likely make it worse. Replacing the hose is a quick and easy job. Considering the potential for problems, getting it replaced before a long trip should be a "no brainer."

Gene Horr · #13 01-12-2009, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mowoc

Thanks, now for the fun Oil question (please don't virtually stone me if this starts an oil thread).

The dealer here (chicago) wants to charge me $55 for a regular oil change but $129 for a synthetic.

What do y'all think? I know I am going to get ripped off no matter what, but $129 for an oil change seems absurd.

Oh, and how would I know which line is leaking on the Powersteering fluid? Is the upper or Lower the high pressure line?

Those are good prices. An independent will be close to $100. Both are probably doing it for close to cost.

athensbenz · #14 01-12-2009, 12:08 PM

Just a side note - Once you get here, Macon has a great place for MB repair Bridgeman Silverstar. They are downtown and are very familiar with our diesels. Welcome to Georgia! What you give up in cold in wind in Chicago, you'll gain in humidity and heat in Macon! (July - August especially)

jt20 · #15 01-12-2009, 12:12 PM

your oil should be fine, unless you burn lots of it. (contamination will be high)

A fair number of members of have had their oil tested after 9,000 miles and still report safe operation zones.

For the P/S line. Loosen the clamp on the leaking end, trim 1/8 - 1/4 inc off, push it on completely, tighten up. Watch it closely for 1,000 miles expecting to replace the line.