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  #16  
Old 01-15-2009, 08:01 AM
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This is all very helpful. Thanks for the input. I think I need to set my friend straight.

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  #17  
Old 01-15-2009, 08:07 AM
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I've used four different oils in my engine throughout the time I've had it....all of them worked fine.....but I finally settled with a synthetic with a good cost ratio....and don't plan on using anything else.
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  #18  
Old 01-15-2009, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POS View Post
A lot of oil used to be sold as a blend - that is, a blend of dino and syn
The difference between the manufacturer blending and the end user blending is very big. The manufacturer knows what they are doing, the proportions okay to blend and what additives are necessary. Intentionally mixing and matching oil types yourself to make a "blend" oil is a VERY bad idea.
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  #19  
Old 01-15-2009, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
The difference between the manufacturer blending and the end user blending is very big. The manufacturer knows what they are doing, the proportions okay to blend and what additives are necessary. Intentionally mixing and matching oil types yourself to make a "blend" oil is a VERY bad idea.
I agree fully with that. The best thing is to just try and stick with a brand and change it hot and often.
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'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
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  #20  
Old 01-15-2009, 08:46 AM
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I always thought that changing the oil regularly at the specified intervals was the most important thing. Which type or brand you use doesn't seem to me like it would matter that much. A lot of people on the forum seem overly obsessive about the particulars to me.
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  #21  
Old 01-15-2009, 08:50 AM
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Oils are all compatible.

Although it might not give you the best of the two, a combination of two different oils should at least give you the performance of the least of the two oils, I wouldn't be afraid to add a quart or two of whatever you find if you're out somewhere and need to add oil.

I wouldn't intentionally mix the oils when filling/changing.

As far as setting your friend straight Richard, it might be safer to discuss religion or politics than oil.
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  #22  
Old 01-15-2009, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
As far as setting your friend straight Richard, it might be safer to discuss religion or politics than oil.
He is not a member of this forum so I think it is pretty safe to discuss oil with him. I'll let you know if a fight breaks out.
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  #23  
Old 01-15-2009, 08:59 AM
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In my experiance as long as the oil is slippery and changed once in awhile, its fine.


Oil these days are so good...who has ever had an oil failure that wasn't related to not changing it?
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  #24  
Old 01-15-2009, 09:13 AM
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Of course, I never knew, before reading it on this forum, that the oil for diesels was different than the oil for gassers. One of the many things I've learned here.
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  #25  
Old 01-15-2009, 12:38 PM
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One of the requirements of API grading and certification is that the oils MUST be compatible between brands.
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  #26  
Old 01-15-2009, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
Oils are all compatible.

Although it might not give you the best of the two, a combination of two different oils should at least give you the performance of the least of the two oils, I wouldn't be afraid to add a quart or two of whatever you find if you're out somewhere and need to add oil.

I wouldn't intentionally mix the oils when filling/changing.

As far as setting your friend straight Richard, it might be safer to discuss religion or politics than oil.
No truer words have ever been spoken - any commercially available oil is better than no oil.

Mixing oils on purpose is just plain dopey unless you have a laboratory and do a bunch of research on the resulting concoction. But changing oil and having a small percentage of some other oil in the crankcase is not going to have any real effect. Jim
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  #27  
Old 01-15-2009, 01:44 PM
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Wonder how "240joe's" 240D is running?
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  #28  
Old 01-15-2009, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WD8CDH View Post
One of the requirements of API grading and certification is that the oils MUST be compatible between brands.
This is really good to know. I figured all those specs were there for a reason.
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85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60
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  #29  
Old 01-15-2009, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POS View Post
A lot of oil used to be sold as a blend - that is, a blend of dino and syn. You can switch back and forth between the two without any cause for alarm.
This is what is motivating me to use Mobil 1 come next winter. Even tho the temp is -2 today , the diesel is not being used by design.

I am using another vehicle because of its capability to store and transport dirty stuff that would never go in my 240D.

So I can afford to wait for warmer weather, then still maybe even use the block heater, now that I got it working.
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  #30  
Old 01-15-2009, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlytom View Post
I'm asking because I've gone back and forth between Delvac 1 and Redline a couple of times already... I'm currently using Delvac 1.
Why did you leave Redline? I just switched from Rotella to Redline. Mostly because Redline has the ZDDP additive needed for flat tappet engines. I did an oil analysis with Rotella at 3k and plan on doing one with Redline also at 3k when the time comes. Can't wait to compare the results!

Scott

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