Dang nothing but problems so far Sounds like the parts issues are sorted now, though!

-J

__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

Now I'm wondering about the order of what I do next. I need to get the front cover on, but since the cover has an arm that covers the crank sprocket, it would help to put the timing chain on first (I think). I think this also helps because the chain needs to get threaded around the vacuum/injection pump gear and the various guides and rails.

Any suggestions from those who have done this before?

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

I'm not sure what you're asking. You can't get a chain on with the cover in place. Or are you leaving the old chain in place and rolling a new chain after the engine is together.

You can fit the chain on the IP timer with zip ties and leave the timer hanging for when you install the IP. Or install the IP now and static time it on the engine stand.

Here's a picture of the front of the block from the gsxr collection -



Sixto
87 300D

I guess I wanted confirmation of what I think I already knew. There is no way to do this without installing the injection pump and strapping the chain in place. I will then need to time the IP to the crank when I put it in place.

Where does the assembly basket come into use, or is it not used at all?

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

What would be holding the IP in place in the picture?

The timing device is bolted to the IP, but the IP has bolts that go through the front cover which of course is not in place. I see a couple of those bolts I belive holding the chain out of the way on top of the block.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Good question. The IP has a considerable shoulder that slides into the block where the infamous big o-ring is, and the bracket at the aft end of the IP into the block.

Sixto
87 300D

mplafleur, just wanted to compliment you on this fine thread. Great archival material.

BTW the seats look nice. In general you will have a very fine car !

admirable !

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

I hadn't thought of that rear bracket. I'll have to look through my bins of parts and find it.

One of he hardest things about this rebuild is that all my fasteners were taken off years ago and I don't know which bolt is to be used where.

Which fastener is used for the to attach the IP timing adjuster at the bottom of the IP. It screws in to the back of the block, but it needs to pivot. I was looking for a bolt with a long shoulder or bearing type surface but couldn't find one. BTW: I had to drill out that hole last night. The block I got had a broken bolt in that spot. Someone tried to drill it out but was unsuccessful.

I suppose the order may be:

Install IP with bracket and attach timing device.
Install chain guides and rails.
Install timing chain. No need to crimp yet.
Install oil pump chain and rail.
Install front cover.
Install balancer.
Install Cylinder head.
Install chain tensioner.
Crimp timing chain.
Install assembly basket.
Remove IP.
Set engine to 15 deg ADTC.
Install IP.
Install vacuum pump.
etc.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Thanks. I wish I had better light for these pictures. The camera's built in flash is barely adequate. My wish was to provide a source of information for someone else wanting to do the same as me.

The rear seats however were not a direct replacement. There are not firmly attached yet.

I'll have to do the same kind of thread when I restore the '61 Plymouth Valiant I bought over the summer. (See avatar)

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

I don't remember the how the bolt attaches to the block but but I don't recall threads. IIRC there's every likelihood the adjuster will come off the block and IP and fall into the abyss as you pull the IP off the block. I also recall in my case the adjuster came off with the IP rather than stayed with the block so it couldn't be threaded to the block. This is from memory which is not my strong suit. The adjuster has a shelf, for lack of a better word, that slots into the IP. It has a long hex nut that extends to where you can set a wrench on it. Unless you took the adjuster apart, it shouldn't be too difficult to identify among the odd bits in your parts pile.

Again from the gsxr collection, here's a picture of the front of the IP. On the left of the IP bracket you can see the slot the 'shelf' of the adjuster engages.



An installation sequence option is to not remove the IP but rather reposition the IP timer. With the tensioner out and chain slack on the IP side, you can lift the chain off the IP timer and slip cardboard or a thin metal strip between the chain and timer cogs so you can reposition the IP timer. Might be easier to remove the IP

Gus Pfister told me it's okay to wrap a towel around the IP drive shaft and use pliers or vice grips to turn the IP to install the locking tool.

Sixto
87 300D

This is where the IP mounts. The bolt hole on the lower left is one I had to remove the broken bolt from. It is where the IP timing adjuster fastens. It has to fasten here or when you turn the nut on the to of the adjuster, there won't be anything to pull the IP.




And I think these are the bolts. Correct me if I'm wrong. The adjuster is also shown. The end is what gets bolted to the block and it has to be free to pivot I think. Maybe it doesn't. But I think it should.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

I just wanted to add more of what has already been said, great thread and pics! The body looks very clean and those seats look like perfect replacements (once you get the rear issue sorted out ). Kudos!

I, too, hope to tear an engine apart in the near future.

__________________

1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)

Looks like you need a bolt to attach the adjuster block to the engine block. I guess in my bad memory I remember it to be a pin allowing the adjuster to simply slide off the block. The flange at the end of the long hex slots into the IP. The 3 long bolts hold the IP to the engine block. The square nuts slot into the IP flanges.

Sixto
87 300D

I am looking at an old performance products diagram. But it has no detail on bolts etc. oh well.

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Yes, there is a bolt. Looks like a plain old M6 X 20mm (thickness of the adjuster block plus engine block thread depth). I guess I remove the bolt when pulling the IP so the adjuster comes off with the IP.

Sixto
87 300D