300SDL Resurrection - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

MBDFahrer · #**106** 03-16-2009, 06:05 AM

mplafleur, if you need any clips for the fuel lines, I have a almost complete set that I purchased for my 87 300D but I never installed, they're still new in packaging.

mplafleur · #**107** 03-16-2009, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Gotcha.

When, and how, do you bolt the t/c to the flexplate?

Through the inspection hole. I can rotate the the engine until one wing is exposed an the rotate the torque converter as it it is in neutral. When I have one bolted on, then I ca just rotate the engine.

Brian Carlton · #**108** 03-16-2009, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mplafleur

Through the inspection hole. I can rotate the the engine until one wing is exposed an the rotate the torque converter as it it is in neutral. When I have one bolted on, then I ca just rotate the engine.

Gotcha. That's directly on the bottom of the bell housing........??

mplafleur · #**109** 03-16-2009, 12:12 PM

Yup!

pawoSD · #**110** 03-16-2009, 12:58 PM

What made you not mount the torque converter to the engine first....then slip on/attach the trans....and lower it into the car as a unit? That's how we did it on my dad's SD.....seems like it would be easier to deal with securing the motor/trans/torque converter with them out of the car?

Can't wait to see it all finished and running!

mplafleur · #**111** 03-16-2009, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

What made you not mount the torque converter to the engine first....then slip on/attach the trans....and lower it into the car as a unit? That's how we did it on my dad's SD.....seems like it would be easier to deal with securing the motor/trans/torque converter with them out of the car?

Can't wait to see it all finished and running!

I didn't think this would be a difficult way to do this plus there were some pros.

It was easy to turn the TC to engage the pump and slip it in.
I could also make sure I didn't damage the transmission seal.
I filled the TC with as much fluid as I could, so when I put it on in this manner, there was minimal fluid leakage.
I didn't have to rotate the engine to get the TC lined up with the pump.

mplafleur · #**112** 03-16-2009, 10:39 PM

I put in the bolts tonight. Very Easy.

I didn't have any washers for these. Were there supposed to be some?
Tighten to 42 Nm according to the transmission service manual I had.

a2t · #**113** 03-17-2009, 09:04 PM

Awesome thread!

1 bit of advice (and this one is EASY!)

Ditch those silly plastic ball ends on the throttle linkage and get some new ones from a 123. They are metal on the 123, plastic in later years. Those stupid ball ends crack and allow the linkage to pop off, then wedge precariously against some non-moving part of the head, thus jamming the throttle open. Ask me how I know this ....

The MB dealer here in South Atlanta now recommends this because of me and my completely burned front brakes...

DeliveryValve · #**114** 03-17-2009, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mplafleur

I put in the bolts tonight. Very Easy.

I didn't have any washers for these. Were there supposed to be some?
Tighten to 42 Nm according to the transmission service manual I had.

Yes there should be a washer on each bolt. It will prevent some thing like this from happening.

By giving it more surface area to hold it down.

.

mplafleur · #**115** 03-20-2009, 10:21 PM

Update thru today.

I threaded the wiring harness through where I think everything was supposed to be. I connected the starter, sensors, vacuum lines, mass air meter, etc. I turned the key and found the oil pressure gauge was pegged at 3 bar. I traced the problem to the sensor. It measured an open circuit. I got a replacement sensor from Roy and it measured about 13 ohms. I got it installed and the pressure is now zero.

I think all I have left to do tomorrow is the radiator, the air intake, fill with fluids and it'll be time to crank.

mplafleur · #**116** 03-21-2009, 11:02 PM

Everything is together and fluids are in. I cracked open two injector lines to see when fuel comes out. I disconnected the glow plug cable and started to crank.

It cranks fast. Faster then I thought it should.

Oil pressure came up.

No fuel after a minute or so of cranking. There are a lot of things that need to get filled up with fuel. The battery finally ran down with no fuel yet.

I'll try again tomorrow morning before church.

Brian Carlton · #**117** 03-22-2009, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mplafleur

No fuel after a minute or so of cranking. There are a lot of things that need to get filled up with fuel. The battery finally ran down with no fuel yet.

I'll try again tomorrow morning before church.

Get a second person and see if you can start it on WD-40. You'll need to keep spraying after the start for a good 20 seconds until the fuel comes up from the pump.

mplafleur · #**118** 03-22-2009, 09:14 PM

I got the car running today.

I had to remove the line from the spin-on filter and put a hand pump on it (squeeze bulb type) and pump it a bunch of times to get fuel finally coming out. Then after a couple minutes of cranking I still didn't get anything, I bought 2 gallons of fresh diesel and ran a line directly to it. After more cranking I finally got fuel squirting out of the IP. I tightened all the lines and it still took a lot of cranking to finally get it to fire.

It doesn't want to idle. It's a rolling idle and it runs VERY, VERY rich. I ran through the 2 gallons just getting it up to temperature a couple of times and checking all the fluids over and over again. The temperature gauge seemed to top out about 85-90C and dropped when I turned the heater on. I'd be happier with a thermostat the ran a little cooler.

mplafleur · #**119** 03-22-2009, 09:27 PM

On the matter of running very rich, I thought that one possibility may be a faulty mass air flow sensor. If the sensor was open or always indicated full throttle, it may cause the mixture to be over rich. I took out the air box and mass air flow sensor and measured it. 70 ohms closed, 500 ohms partly open and over 1k ohms full open. All to spec in the FSM.

So what else? I removed the line to the ALDA and no change. Could the ALDA itself be causing the problem?

TheDon · #**120** 03-22-2009, 09:43 PM

wow looks great