Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #76  
Old 01-18-2009, 06:06 PM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Maybe I should just pony up and buy a pressure bleeder.
Mine was about $50, very handy tool. It gets its pressure from a tire.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #77  
Old 01-18-2009, 06:46 PM
lutzTD's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lutz, Florida (N of Tampa)
Posts: 2,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Mine was about $50, very handy tool. It gets its pressure from a tire.

I only use about 5 pounds in my pressure bleeder. They will bleed with gravity so a lot of pressure isnt really needed. It seems pretty slick to use tire pressure, but does it limit the pressure or do you get the full 30 or so pounds?
__________________

1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
Reply With Quote
  #78  
Old 01-18-2009, 07:32 PM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
Quote:
Originally Posted by lutzTD View Post
I only use about 5 pounds in my pressure bleeder. They will bleed with gravity so a lot of pressure isnt really needed. It seems pretty slick to use tire pressure, but does it limit the pressure or do you get the full 30 or so pounds?
It has a little adjustable regulator. I use around 15 lbs when doing brakes, I know it goes higher but cant recall how high, I think it goes up to 30psi.
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #79  
Old 01-18-2009, 08:12 PM
lutzTD's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lutz, Florida (N of Tampa)
Posts: 2,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
It has a little adjustable regulator. I use around 15 lbs when doing brakes, I know it goes higher but cant recall how high, I think it goes up to 30psi.
sounds cool, can you PM me a link to it?
__________________

1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
Reply With Quote
  #80  
Old 01-19-2009, 10:35 AM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
Quote:
Originally Posted by lutzTD View Post
sounds cool, can you PM me a link to it?
The company is "Speedibleed". http://www.speedibleed.com/

Of course the price has gone up but its a slick little unit
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #81  
Old 01-19-2009, 10:56 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
That's very similar in concept to Gunson's Eezibleed, which is popular to the Britcar hobbists.

http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=674&item=1818

They tend to be cheaper, over there, anyway.
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
Reply With Quote
  #82  
Old 01-19-2009, 03:04 PM
chetwesley's Avatar
Incompetent Loser
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 745
I am going to try the brake to clutch bleeding method today and I will report back on my failure in a while...

er I mean on my results.

I'm the optimistic type, if you can't tell
__________________
1979 240D w/4 Speed Manual, Light Blue Estimated 225-275K Miles - "Lil' Chugs"
Sold but fondly remembered: 1981 300TD Turbo Tan 235K miles, 1983 300SD Astral Silver 224K miles

Reply With Quote
  #83  
Old 01-19-2009, 03:32 PM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
It worked for me- I drove it today.....
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
Reply With Quote
  #84  
Old 01-19-2009, 03:36 PM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
Quote:
Originally Posted by chetwesley View Post
I am going to try the brake to clutch bleeding method today and I will report back on my failure in a while...
You do what I said with the small hose clamps and the pump, pump, pump, and dont be reporting back any failures
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #85  
Old 01-19-2009, 05:00 PM
chetwesley's Avatar
Incompetent Loser
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 745
I do have a quick basic question. You are supposed to suck the fluid out of the clutch reservoir before starting, but how do you get at the part that is for the clutch? It seems to be divided off and I can't get in there.

Can you just suck it out of the part of the reservoir that is open and accessible directly under the cap?

Also I still don't understand why you actually have to suck any fluid out, especially if you are adding more in as it goes along (presumably because of replacing air taking up space in the system with fluid). Why suck fluid out at the beginning at all?
__________________
1979 240D w/4 Speed Manual, Light Blue Estimated 225-275K Miles - "Lil' Chugs"
Sold but fondly remembered: 1981 300TD Turbo Tan 235K miles, 1983 300SD Astral Silver 224K miles

Reply With Quote
  #86  
Old 01-19-2009, 06:48 PM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
Quote:
Originally Posted by chetwesley View Post
I do have a quick basic question. You are supposed to suck the fluid out of the clutch reservoir before starting, but how do you get at the part that is for the clutch? It seems to be divided off and I can't get in there.

Can you just suck it out of the part of the reservoir that is open and accessible directly under the cap?

Also I still don't understand why you actually have to suck any fluid out, especially if you are adding more in as it goes along (presumably because of replacing air taking up space in the system with fluid). Why suck fluid out at the beginning at all?
You dont have to suck any fluid out except when your done your resivour my be over filled when using the pressure bleeder. then just remove a little from the fwd chamber.
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #87  
Old 01-19-2009, 09:32 PM
chetwesley's Avatar
Incompetent Loser
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 745
The results are in and...

no results.

Same thing. Still won't go into gear while running.

I got my lady to help me and we pumped the breaks probably 15-20 times opening and closing the valve on the caliper. As far as I could tell I wasn't loosing much fluid from around the bleed screws. I could feel pressure build in the hose as she pushed down on the pedal, and then I would close the valve when she had the pedal down, and she'd let up.

I really had no idea how many times to pump or how I would know when it is done. That's not in the instructions anywhere, but I figured 15-20 would be enough.

Any further ideas?

It could of course be possible that something is actually wrong in the system... It did suddenly stop working after all...

One thing I know is that the clutch pedal does push fluid through the system because when I bled from top down, I could see that the stream coming out the bottom would intensify when I pushed on the clutch pedal.
__________________
1979 240D w/4 Speed Manual, Light Blue Estimated 225-275K Miles - "Lil' Chugs"
Sold but fondly remembered: 1981 300TD Turbo Tan 235K miles, 1983 300SD Astral Silver 224K miles

Reply With Quote
  #88  
Old 01-19-2009, 10:15 PM
winmutt's Avatar
85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Atl Gawga
Posts: 9,346
That only rules out a complete failure. Start replacing parts from the cheap end on up. Slave. Master.
__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42
Reply With Quote
  #89  
Old 01-19-2009, 10:16 PM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
Quote:
Originally Posted by chetwesley View Post
no results.

Same thing. Still won't go into gear while running.

I got my lady to help me and we pumped the breaks probably 15-20 times opening and closing the valve on the caliper. As far as I could tell I wasn't loosing much fluid from around the bleed screws. I could feel pressure build in the hose as she pushed down on the pedal, and then I would close the valve when she had the pedal down, and she'd let up.

I really had no idea how many times to pump or how I would know when it is done. That's not in the instructions anywhere, but I figured 15-20 would be enough.

Any further ideas?

It could of course be possible that something is actually wrong in the system... It did suddenly stop working after all...

One thing I know is that the clutch pedal does push fluid through the system because when I bled from top down, I could see that the stream coming out the bottom would intensify when I pushed on the clutch pedal.
Geeze, I give up
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #90  
Old 01-20-2009, 02:06 AM
chetwesley's Avatar
Incompetent Loser
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 745
Slave cylender rebuild kits

Can the slave cylinder typically be rebuilt? I found a rebuild kit for $20, it is just some rubber parts.

__________________
1979 240D w/4 Speed Manual, Light Blue Estimated 225-275K Miles - "Lil' Chugs"
Sold but fondly remembered: 1981 300TD Turbo Tan 235K miles, 1983 300SD Astral Silver 224K miles

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page