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#46
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Quote:
ill try pushing down on the assembly when i resume my efforts in the morning. there is no mention of this calamity in either the haynes manual or in the FSM in any of the parts where valve springs are removed. is making sure a piston is under the valve just mechanics common knowledge? dd
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#47
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compressed air is often used.
I personally would have used the firing order to determine when #5 was @ TDC by dividing 360*/5 and matching the angle zone for that cylinder. Common?... I'm sure there are plenty of tricks but some still make mistakes. |
#48
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Just some food for thought:
How certain are you that this is the issue? How critical do you think it is? Are there any other symptoms or clues? |
#49
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Quote:
No idea. The problem itself does not seem critical. it is not deteriorating or getting worse. this is just a guess though, i wanted to do as much work as i could up front to determine what the noise is and hopefully, get rid of it. None. Other than the noise itself the car runs great, with great power. Starts near 0 degrees no problem. Starts first crank at 25 degrees. Does not seem to burn much oil (only driven 700 miles or so). After this investigation is complete, if the noise is still there, Ill probably take it to a reputable benz place and see what they say. One other question, will I need to take the valve stem seal off to get at the rotator for inspection / replacement? If I take the seal off, i probably need to put a new one on, and they only come as a kit, right? I don't think the car needs new valve stem seals at 150k. tomorrow will tell me a lot. i'm hoping its just a busted or worn out spring. im putting a new one in no matter what. thanks jt20, dd
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#50
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Quote:
Its cheap enough to buy the set in case the removal of the seal eff's it all up. But there is a way to remove it w/o causing harm if you do not have the patience to wait for a new set to arrive. final word - replace it if you have the time to wait. It is old and brittle despite mileage. You'll see the difference when you have a new set in your hands. Quote:
glad we are on the same page with regards to the legitimacy of this project. |
#51
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So I got the spring out. My heart has never beat faster than when I was unsure if the piston was below the valve. I held the valve stem with a pair of slim pliers juuust in case, and put the locknut back on. I took the spring out, and then verified, with the locknut in place, I indeed has a piston there - which I did.
The spring itself, of course, hold no smoking gun. Its in one piece. It does have wear at the top mating surface to the keeper, but nothing I would consider alarming. I am hoping that the spring itself had a rate below spec, allowing it to move more than it was supposed to between keeper and rotator, causing the noise. I am choosing not to take the rotator or stem seal out. The rotator can only be had from MB Germany, 4 week lead time. Even if I took it out, I dont know what I would be looking for. Any good way to test the rotator in the interim? I am getting a sinking feeling I will be right back to where I started when I button this back up. I just need to be careful to make sure I dont make a mistake in the interim that will make me a poster child of 'if it aint broke...'. Or maybe not. But i havent heard of worn out springs causing noise, so we shall see. dd
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#52
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the rotocap may fit over the seal. Theres no harm is trying - it just sits in that bore.
To test it - put the spring on and apply pressure while spinning (it should spin freely) Apply pressure with the spring and rock back and forth to observe excessive play. If you get the rotocap out - spin it by hand and ensure the relation of the two halves is constant - Post a picture so we can compare the reveal of the lower half. You should definitely compare the two springs and measure them. |
#53
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jt20,
No go on removing the rotator over the stem seal. It just doesn't make it over the rubber. I tried rotating it with the spring, it seems fine. No binding or noises or anything like that. No what I would term excessive play, but of course I have nothing to compare to. Any play just seems to be the gap between the rotator and the hole it sits in. New valve spring should be here thursday (had to purchase from MB dealer). I will evaluate the situation then when I see the new spring if the rotator is worth removing the stem seal to inspect. I cant do much until then. I took some good pics and will post them later on tonight. dd
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#54
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its the best you can do.
Good idea to leave the stem seal alone. If you were able to visually inspect the rotocap in its entirety, that should do. |
#55
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Update
Problem solved.
I put the entire thing back together and have now run it in for about 200 miles. The noise under the valve cover that I was hearing before is now gone - it was the worn valve spring after all. Under the valve cover now sounds like a sewing machine on all 5 cylinders. Thank you everyone, especially jt20, for all the help. I learned a lot on this adventure which will undoubtedly prepare me for the inevitable next one. Im going to post a summary in post #1. dd
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#56
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Really glad that you solved your problem. Nice to hear that sewing machine clacking away like normal.
Don't know if you'd feel up for it, but a brief write up on this procedure might come in handy for someone with this specific problem in the future. Most mechanics would not have been as thorough with diagnosing your engine as you were.
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I-------------------------------------1981 300TD, Thistle Green, 140K------------------------------------I
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#57
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I am totally going to do a better inspection the next time I do valves. This was a great read!
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#58
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Glad your back on the road, WOW, I learn something new every day
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#59
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nice job, Dan!
I am suddenly compelled to replace all my valve springs. really. I hope you post some pics of that spring you took out. |
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