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W126 Alternator Removal Problem w/pic
I have scoured this board and cannot find anything related to this problem.
I have an 83 300SD and am trying to remove the alternator. I am getting hung up with trying to take out the bolt that is attached to the adjusting screw. This bolt cannot come out unless I remove the adjusting screw from the fork that it sits in. How do I go about getting out of the grasp of the fork that is part of the harness? I have attached a pic to show you exactly what I am talking about. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks! Scott |
#2
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just take your time and look at the w126 service disc which tells you how
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
#3
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I bent the tab holding the bolt in the groove. Then the bolt popped out.
If you are putting in the bigger Bosch AL129x leave that bolt out until you install the alternator and get the belts on it. It makes it easier as you really have to push the alt against the side of the engine to get the belts on.
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
#4
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Yes, bend the tab, but dont bend the threaded part. It will break a few k down the road if its bent at all.
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1981 300SD 512k OM603 |
#5
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The true way to do it is to remove the whole assembly from the car, and unscrew the adjustment nut all the way until the threaded rod comes free of it, then there is just enough clearance to swing it out and remove the threaded bolt. Bending the forked end is not how its supposed to work!
Most of them are damaged or rusty at this point, and need to be replaced. I replaced mine because the end broke off while I was doing it. $50 for the threaded adjustment bolt, but it works SO much nicer when doing assembly/dis assembly.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#6
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Thanks for the responses. I guess I'm left with some more questions:
1. Which "tab" do I bend? The forked one holding the screw or the flange? Would it be easier to take the bracket off and get this done outside of the car? |
#7
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you bend the part that run parallel to the threaded part and points vertical. i used a drift and hammer. bend that back enough to allow the whole threaded bolt to pop out. when reassembling bend back to original position with a big set of channel lock pliers.
just did this last weekend...its all too familiar. do a search under my name and you'll see my account of the job. dd
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#8
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Quote:
What is a w126 disc, and where would I find one? Thanks --------------------- 1984 MB 300SD Turbo |
#9
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DO NOT BEND THE TAB!!!!!!
just take all the bolts out that hold the alternator, the plate with the tabs will slide off the adjuster bolt easily. DO NOT BEND THE TAB!!!!!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#10
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DieselDan-
Thanks for the heads up about your how-to thread, it's very informative. VStech- Great! I was hoping I didn't have to bend the ta since I am a klutz and will surely snap something. I have the bottom bolt off and am working on the driver's side top bolt. This should be enough to remove the alternator, right? The only other bolt I see is the one that is attached to the adjustment screw, and that can't come off until the alternator is out of the car. Let me know if I am missing something or if I need to remove any other part of the car to get it all out. Thanks again. |
#11
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dealer, ebay, I can get you one as well
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
#12
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Actually, it sounds as if you might be doing it in reverse sequence. Instead of trying to remove the adjusting bolt, crank it all the way in to release the tension on the belt. Then remove the bracket and alternator as a unit, held by the two large bolts at the block. Once removed, separate the bracket from the alternator. No bending required.
I also fought it the first time. Once I figured out that removing the bracket and alternator as a unit, it really simplified this task.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#13
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right on!
Quote:
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#14
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Quote:
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83 SD 84 CD |
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
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