How do you remove the Oil Filter Housing on an OM606?
 

I have successfully used this technique on piston number 1. I also need to use this technique to remove stuck glow plug in piston 6. Just as it is photographed in the wiki, However I am having a difficult time in removing the oil filter housing, which is in the way for the drilling operation.
I am going about it by trying to remove the starter motor, hoping that will gain me access to the four bolts holding the oil filter housing to the engine block. I have been able to remove the lower 16mm bolt on the starter, but am having trouble finding a tool to fit, to remove the top side bolt.
If anyone could help shed some light, i'd greatly appreciate it!:)

Thanks,
Dale

1999 E300TD 214,000 miles and counting...

Don't bother removing the starter to get the filter housing. It has 4 (I think) hex head cap screws holding it on but you need a complex series of custom hex bits to access the more hidden ones.

As I remember, I cut off a hex key wrench and stuck the long end in a 1/4 drive socket so it was skinny enough to get underneath and remove the most hidden bolt.

Real PITA, it was...

Very nice DIY.

Well done.

I became a statistic with my W210 GP fiasco. #1 GP bad, I pull the IM, remove the GP very easily after the initial squeak, install new with antiseize. All is good. So being the wise one, I don’t mess with the rest. A month later, #2 goes bad. Remove IM.... decided to do the rest. Rounded and broke the tip of #2, so with an easy out socket squeaked it out over a period of 4 hours. Also did #4, no particular reason. Tired, I put it all back together. A month later #3 bad. So third time around I decided to do the rest; #5 unscrewed easier than a spark plug. #3 took hours of back and forth. #6 was soaking for 48 hours. Gave it that initial jerk to break it loose. Broke it loose for good between the threads and hex. This must be a weakened area, I’ve heard of so many breaking here. Cutting an old one to pieces, I convinced myself that it was not coming out by itself during operation so I put it all back together, running on 5 GP’s. Hey, summer is coming.

I have a concern about the described procedure here. I drill out the threaded portion, remove the bits from the head threads. If I start drilling the remainder of the GP, is there a danger of pushing it into the head with the drill bit, since nothing is holding it at that point. None of my GP’s had any carbon buildup to speak of; once they were unscrewed, they came out fairly easily.

’97 E300 105K

I do not own a 606 but I'm curious as to the cause of why these glow plugs get stuck. Please enlighten me.

My theory is that the engines aren't being run hard enough and carbon builds up around the GP's...

606 gp has an exceptionally long shaft between threads and tip, and an exceptionally weak section between threads and hex. Tight fit on the shaft and tight threads. Even when the threads loosen it still is tight from the shaft area. PB Blaster is your friend here.

I also confirmed what others did on the forum and measure the torque needed on an old gp to break it between threads and hex and it's about 80-90Nm.

In some cases it appears to be some sort of corrosion between the Aluminum and the Steel in the threaded area. Evidently nothing was put on the Threads at the Factory that would stop that.

Not many but some have had Carbon get passed the Sealing area and fill into the space between the Glow Plug and the Cylinder Head.

Why some did not seal has not been discussed so there is no answer.

If Carbon gets by the sealing area the fact that the Glow Plugs are longer than the old ones works against the. This gives the Carbon more surface area to grab onto.

It also could be that the Metal just past the Hex Head is too hard or thin for the application they are being used for.

I noticed on another Diesel that used similar sized long Glow Plugs they moved the threaded area close to the Tip of the Glow Plug. That allows less space for Carbon to build if in if there is a leak and may also allow for thicker metal on the Glow Plug body.

Carbon buildup around the tip/element could be caused by worn Injector Nozzles and along with that poor IP timing. There is supposed to be no Drip Timing for them and it may be no one wants to pay to have the IP timing done at the Dealer so they just drive it.

Wouldn't that be true for the 617.xxx engines also? 617's do not seem to have that problem. Is it because the 606 glow plugs are smaller diameter and thus weaker?


606 glow plug
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/liv...1627356BER.JPG


617 glow plug
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/hir...1633192BER.JPG

I for sure, believe that it has a lot to do with the length of the GP. This coupled with the deep aluminum head wicking the heat away from the area contributes to the corrosion.

This is still just a theory.

Long and thin is weaker than short and stout. The 617 glow plugs use a 12 mm wrench. What size is the 606?

Also 12mm.

Great posts guys, helped me remove #4 GP today. Came out great! Used a reamer and was amazed at the carbon I pulled out. Will do #2 tomorrow and will have to remove an injector line as well. All the others came out fine.

Suggest you do it on a hot engine. Mine seemed to almost unscrew themselves the last two times I did it while still hot.

One suggestion I have after reading about someone who drilled at the wrong angle: Use a straight edge, laser line, or just eyeball it, and place a few reference points on the cars frame/hoses/ or any stationary part BEFORE YOU SHEER OFF THE GLOWPLUG. My picture show some green tape with blue lines that are exactly in line with the angle of the glow plug. I still had to estimate the up/down angle but that angle is identical to all the glow plugs, it's the left or right angle that you better be sure of before you sheer off the glow plug!

- I will post the pic tomorrow