Anything wrong with buying the parts here? After all, you're getting a lot of free advice, right??

You just click on the "Buy parts" button up top!

Yes I will second that, if you don't buy OEM from the dealer then buy from Fastlane to help support the board.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

ah..I didnt realize this site sells parts also

It is natural to have variation from car to car but since you said you also have a nailing issue you probably should have the injectors pop tested and checked for spray pattern. I know this will cause both nailing and poor fuel economy. Whether picking up an extra couple of MPGs will ever pay for rebuilding the injectors (which, based upon my limited experience runs about $80 a piece) is questionable which is why I haven't done it. I figure I'd have to spend $5000 on fuel to recoup the $500 I would spend getting my injectors rebuilt based upon picking up 3 MPGs and that's about 2 years worth of driving for me. Maybe if you drive more or are more concerned about the fuel economy issue than me it would be worth having your injectors checked.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Fastlane, the parts seller, sponsors the site - in other words they pay some (or is it all?) of the costs associated with keeping it online.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Yeah, but to be honest, this site doesn't necessarily have the best prices and I think it should be more competitive. We all come here & give advice for free, that's where the real value of this site comes from.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

As for oil, MB recommends 229.1 or 229.3 in Europe.

Mobil 1 0W-40 meets both those specifications. I've been using it for several years. Last oil change interval was around 15,000 miles.

I'm unsure why MB US recommend differently.

MBUSA doesn't recommend differently, it's just that the recommended oil isn't always the best. Based on UOA's I have yet to see any oil beat Mobil1 TDT.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

As others have noted the mileage you report for winter months is not alarming - disappointing for sure - but not alarming. Mine gets over 29 mpg once it is fully warmed up in the winter and slightly better than that on half tank or longer trips, now that I have installed the ScanGauge II (my driving style has changed significantly). That tool shows the engine is notably thirstier at 40 degrees Fahrenheit and below, and that the warm up period lasts a lot longer, so a bunch of shorter trips (10 miles or less), even on the highway that don't get fully warmed up end up being quite costly on the overall fuel economy. In this really frigid stuff I am happy to get about 28 mpg on a tank. In the summer I can stretch a gallon to 31-32 miles regularly.

Not sure how complete the maintenance history you have is, but with nearly 200k miles it might be worth investigating. Fuel leaks, which usually can be smelled (these cars don't smell like Diesel when they don't have fuel leaks) are a common problem in an around the filter, injection pump and injectors. Many threads on the subject. Also, with that many miles you may need a new chain or at least a check of the injection pump and valve timing. Not exactly sure how this machine is timed and whether or not the chain is the boss or there is some electronic manipulation - in any case the valves should be timed by the chain and the range of electronic manipulation (if that is what goes on) likely won't compensate for a really well worn chain.

Good luck,

Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

I think that it's too soon to tell what your real fuel economy is...
Wait a few more tanks....It can be inconsistant filling...A few more tanks will tell you...I would take it for a few good runs.

Today.. I got my best mileage ever....33, on a 500 mile round trip. Filled it before I left, topped it when I returned.

Normally... I get 27 with a heavy foot.. it's just too much fun dipping into the torque.

You can try the economy setting for the AC... I find that is worth 1 or 2.
Make sure the tires are aired up. 28 minimum. (personally.. I don't like high pressures.)

finally... put an egg between your foot and the throttle.... 30 mpg is there...
much higher is hard (got to slow down) I get 20 in the city (pure city) without trying.
and maybe about 27 overall...

You might put some seafoam in the fuel filter when you change it.

I was getting 30 to 35 mpg on a trip from Texas to Wash. That was doing 70 to 75 with the ac on.My water pump went out at 120k plastic impeller broke off of shaft.Rear window regulators are a known problem try not to roll windows up too far they will distort door when bottomed out. When I set the auto roll up I put a rag on top of the window to act as a spacer so then it does not roll up so tight.I used Amsoil ATF when I changed my trans fluid had a few people on this forum say that it would not work and it would fail almost 30k on it and have noticed no difference in shifts .MB auto fluid is a Shell ATF not sold in the USA. I also had to replace the elec connector at the trans at the same time it was leaking. I all so use Amsoil 5w - 40w euro spec.I did the front brakes last summer and used Ceramic pads now cleaning the wheels is a simple wipe with the soapy rag.If you want to use Amsoil They have a product guide for each car and if their oils are not rated to be used they will not list one for your car.IE no atf is listed for a Jetta diesel automatic.

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89 Ford F3504x4CC 7.3 IDI turboed Intercooler and running on wvo now powered by a 1997 Cumins
87 300SDL on bio and wvo killed by chevy truck 5-24-06
1999 E300TD black with gray int.

Change and bleed brake fluid. As well as new brake pads all 4 wheels. (2) new front brake pad sensors.
New front wheel bearings.
New front rotors
New shocks all around
Lower ball joints
4-wheel alignment
Change transmission fluid, new trans. screen filter and pan gasket. Check for trans. fluid leak at sending unit. You may need to replace it as well.
Change serpentine fan belt if needed
Change radiator fluid
Change cabin filter located under glove box
Evacuate power steering fluid and refill

That's incorrect. There is a brake lining sensor for EACH FRONT BRAKE PAD SET.

Buy and install (2) new front brake sensors.

Ball joints, wheel bearings and shocks don't have to be changed unless there is a problem with them - in other words they are not preventive maintenance items. You can check each item and if they indicate they need replacement then it is the time to do it. None of those are time dependent items, they wear with miles. In my case, the BJs and shocks lasted 165K+ and were barely in need of replacement but I did them anyway. You might as well also check the control arm bushings, tie rod ends and sway bar bushings and links while you are looking. Of course if you go for an alignment at a good shop and any of those are worn they will find it then.

I have never replaced (nor even repacked) my wheel bearings and they are fine at 171K. Unless you have a complete service history you don't know what's been done and what hasn't and it is even possible someone had the shocks and BJ's done recently, in which case that would be a big waste of money to do them again. Just check the BJ's for play and the shocks for leaks and dampening effectiveness and if they are OK forget about them.

Also, rear brakes on these cars have been known to last the life of the car and don't need to be changed unless worn. Mine are original and still have about 40-50% left at 171K. I do agree that if you are doing front pads it is also a good idea to change the rotors. I do them at each pad change, some do them every other pad change but I like my brakes to be "vibration free" and once I had to go back and replace rotors after doing a pad change so I decided just to do both at the same time every time. More than one mechanic I know will only do pads and rotors because he knows there's a 50/50 chance the customer will have a problem if he does just pads.

Everything else he listed is a good suggestion. I might also add differential oil to the replacement list too. I changed mine when I bought it 4+ years ago and put in M1 synthetic.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I stand corrected.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz