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bought a 99 e300 with 173k, maintenance questions & brake pad rec's
well i got a 99 e300 and would like to do some maintenance to make sure it still has a long life ahead of it.
I need to do brake pads since i get a warning every time i drive the car that my pads need to be changed. I was wondering what type of pads you guys recommend. Would prefer to not spend $80-$90 on a set if possible, but would like to do whats best for the car. I also would like to do an oil change. I got a new oil filter from the dealership, and the previous owner ran mobil 1 synthetic...so i'd like to run the same. Anyone know what grade of oil I should get and how many quarts? Also the engine has a good nailing/knocking sound. I heard its good to run some type of injector cleaner directly through the injectors or something like that? the previous owner said he had the intake cleaned, plastic fuel lines changed, and the motor mounts changed also....is there anything else I should look into? Last edited by darkostoj; 01-19-2009 at 03:15 PM. |
#2
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OK, I will be the first to jump in and answer...some will criticize me I am sure.
I use the OEM pads ONLY and if there is any vibration at all or the rotors don't look perfect replace them too. You'll need a wear sensor too. Brakes are no place to scrimp and save - besides the OEM stuff is not that more costly than aftermarket. Get a squeeze-out package of the anti-squeal stuff too while at the parts desk (if they don't offer it) and use it on the pads. Oil, use M1 5W40 TurboDiesel. Do a search under "diesel purge procedure for the OM606" to get the best cleaning possible. It still might not get rid of the nailing but if anything in a bottle will, that will. If the transmission hasn't been serviced I recommend doing that too. You'll find lots of information including a DIY article on it in that section. Use only the M-B fluid.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#3
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i have noticed that sometimes the transmission does shift a little funny, what kind of service does it need? Also i'm only getting around 25-26mpg..is there anything else I should look into to help mileage |
#4
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Tranny procedure: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/Trans7226Fluid If it is cold where you live 25-26 may be about all you can expect. It goes up 15% or so in the summer. OOPS, and I forgot to mention you'll need about 8 quarts of the oil. I usually buy the one gallon jugs at Wal-Mart and use 2 at an oil change.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#5
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I would try a transmission service on it (filter and all the fluid).
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I got a hold of the previous owner and he said he used 0w40 mobil 1? Does that sound right? He said it was a specific oil for the 906 engine. |
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If you drive with a "heavy foot" 25-26 is about right, especially if most of the driving is stop and go. Pure highway doing 65-75 you will do 30 or a little better but you are within 2-3 MPG of "best case scenario" at 26.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
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If your fuel economy doesn't change from summer to winter you must not live anywhere it gets too cold. Every diesel car I have ever owned has gotten worse mileage in the winter. The fuel has less energy in it due to it being a winter blend. It also might be the tires I run which are snows on all 4 wheels.
Speaking of tires, try running 35 PSI in the rears and 32 up front if yours are lower than that - you might squeeze another MPG or so out just by running the tires with a little higher pressure.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#9
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My dad has a 98e300 and his car is the reason I bought mine. I drove it for a couple months when he was out of the country and his car would get a consistant 30-32 mpg mixed city/highway...I bought mine and I'm doing 26-27 at best with the same driving style |
#10
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There are 3 brake wear sensors. One on each front brake and one on the right(?) rear. They are cheap; if you have any leftovers from other MB's use them, they havent changed design in 25 years.
IIRC Pagid pads were OEM.
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#11
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Invest in some cetane booster fuel additive. They can go a long way in eliminating cold engine knocks that are quite common on IDI diesels. Also do a before and after glow resistance test on your glow plugs to make sure they're all working. Inspect your engine for fuel leaks, including under the black plastic cover. Also inspect the area around the front spring perches, and ideally peal back some of the undercoating to check for rust, then reseal. I agree about doing the transmission service if it's not in the records. As to oil, any 5W40 diesel-rated synthetic will do. That pretty much narrows it down to Mobil1 TDT or Shell Rotella T.
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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual) Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL |
#12
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Yes, only one brake wear sensor at the back, passenger side.
HDen
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W126 1985 300SD TurboDiesel W164 2009 ML320 BlueTEC (Sold) W123 1983 240D Stick (Sold) W210 1998 E300D TurboDiesel (sold) W124 1993 300D 2.5 Turbo (sold) 2012 GMC 2500 Duramax PickUp 2015 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel PickUp |
#13
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any reccomendations on where the best place to buy these parts online is?
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#14
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You also might want to confirm the tires and wheels you are running are the stock size. That can cause odometer errors which will trickle down to your mileage calculations.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#15
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Bookmarks |
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