1995 E300 Newest diesel in the fleet. Literally..... - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

daw_two · #76 01-25-2009, 12:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Yep, a gasser is probably fine on the collapsed rubber for awhile. A diesel is somewhat less forgiving in the vibration department......
Expensive little buggers........

Yeah, I have to wonder if that's why the passenger rear window is broken now.......I have to get this fuel leak stopped in Coda. I ought to call you the next time I'm driving....you will be able to HEAR the vibration.

My dentist is probably going to ask me why my fillings are loose.......

Skid Row Joe · #77 01-25-2009, 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

And why on earth does this car fall flat on its face after every shift!?!?

If your tach worked, maybe you'd know @ what RPM it's shifting at?

Driving a new/strange diesel car by sound as to when your right foot permits it to shift, doesn't tell you much without a tach to guide you. You may be unconsciously babying this diesel, when you should drive it stronger.

Many of the non-turbo diesels just aren't too strong JM. My E300TD is always brimming with a desire to leap & run, and run fast. It ain't my Father's 220D.

How coincidental the motor mount craps out on you, after just buying. They need changing anyway.

JimmyL · #78 01-25-2009, 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

If your tach worked, maybe you'd know @ what RPM it's shifting at?

Driving a new/strange diesel car by sound as to when your right foot permits it to shift, doesn't tell you much without a tach to guide you. You may be unconsciously babying this diesel, when you should drive it stronger.

Many of the non-turbo diesels just aren't too strong JM. My E300TD is always brimming with a desire to leap & run, and run fast. It ain't my Father's 220D.

How coincidental the motor mount craps out on you, after just buying. They need changing anyway.

Always something with these isn't it Joe! Sheesh! Sometimes when I really romp on it the tach will work and it shifts just above 4000 [without having my foot completely buried] However, if I take off slowly it should shift gears but still have a steady climb up to speed right? I can't imagine it should lose all forward momentum quite like this. If it was an old gasser it would be very similar to carburetor problems.
Also when I'm accelerating and let off before it shifts to the next gear, it really bangs into gear with a Thunk! And I mean a good car rattling thunk.
A lot of things really need to be done prior to worrying about too much yet. Needs engine mounts and the accelerator cable first and foremost. Needs two rubber grommets for windshield washer reservoir so that blasted orange low fluid light will go out.
And those 2 bad glow plugs really need to go too.

I am kinda fearing that job......

daw_two · #79 01-25-2009, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Needs two rubber grommets for windshield washer reservoir so that blasted orange low fluid light will go out.
......

Just so you know........I searched around at the good hardware store trying to find those things. My advice, just send Phil an email.

JimmyL · #80 01-25-2009, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daw_two

Just so you know........I searched around at the good hardware store trying to find those things. My advice, just send Phil an email.

already ordered....

Skid Row Joe · #81 01-25-2009, 03:42 AM

The only fear you have, is fear itself of R&Ring the intake forged tubing. If you don't have a hand-held, metric-calibrated torque wrench, get one. The forged aluminum may be temperamental. You do not want to damage the aluminum intake by guessing without a torque wrench when putting the intake back on.

Remember, there's always David Poole's shop in Dallas. I may use him one of these days. Alabassi (on the MBCA website) just posted his new address and phone number on Indian Trail in Dallas.

The slamming of the into the next gear is a good sign of a strong tranny. My 300SD with 305K miles on it when I sold it, had a good strong shift all the years I drove it. I changed the tranny fluid and drained the torque converter every 50K miles on the SD. BTW, until I advanced the turbo adjustment screw and nut, my SD was slow, slow, slow. Once it got advanced, it was a real pleasure to drive off the line with more umph.

The reason for the banging when shifting might be the left motor mount is shot, and it reverberates through the drivetrain?

Compare with guys that own your like model to see if theirs are as sluggish. I've never driven any of the 2.5 turbo or 3.0 diesels from that era. So I don't know how they accellerate.

There's always 3 to 6 things that need to be done to my diesel. That's just the way it is with old stuff. My '99 car turns 10 this July. I'm in heat to buy a CDI to replace the E300, but I just cannot justify needing one, even though my '99 has not been the perfect car. It's close enough for a few more years.

Pix of me and my then new 1977 Corvette L-82 in Omaha, NE. 32 yrs. ago. The window sticker listed for $10,950.00. Bought it Dec. '76 in Wahoo, Nebraska from a small town dealer that ordered 15 just alike for his Shriners Corvette Patrol members. Nine were left, with snow up to your knees, and his buddies weren't picking them up from his Chevy dealership, so he discounted one heavily to me.

KarTek · #82 01-25-2009, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Also when I'm accelerating and let off before it shifts to the next gear, it really bangs into gear with a Thunk! And I mean a good car rattling thunk.

Jimmy, I'm not the expert on these since there's more vacuum on this car than mine but... On the side of the injection pump there's a device that controls vacuum to the transmission. I would check to see if it's connected/adjusted properly. This in conjunction with some other vacuum problem may be why it falls on it's face when shifting. I'll have to look at my spare pump but I believe the car still has an ALDA of sorts even though it's NA. Maybe this is shutting off the fuel with each shift...

babymog · #83 01-25-2009, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

Pix of me and my then new 1977 Corvette L-82

Those were dark years for Detroit. I had that same car, L-82 4-speed, silver with silver interior. Rode like a pickup truck, was heavier than any car Chevrolet offered in '77 other than the full-sized wagon, would get sideways on any bumpy pavement/could only corner on glassy pavement (the whole car was unsprung weight), and most any early '70s oil-burning Mopar POS woud leave me looking for a lower gear. Then there was the silver paint coming off of all of the interior components (ex: steering column) and reveling the black beneath before it was a year old, ... and the constant deafening squeaks and rattles from the T-top and body.

I have no love for that thing, the last US-built car I bought for two decades. Traded it for a new Audi 5000 turbo in '79 when they came out, even that would outrun and out-corner the '77 Corvette.

They stopped making "Vettes" in '69. I'm okay with the C-6 though, a fun drive for the price.

JimmyL · #84 02-01-2009, 03:27 PM

I can't tell you how much I feared this job!! When I purchased the car, I knew it had glow plug issues. Glow plug light didn't come on until after it was started.
Measured and found that #3 and #5 were bad. So, at this point having never touched an OM606.910 or a W124 I decided a surgical strike for just those 2 were in order.
I will do a complete write up with my pics from this, but for now I'm just gonna "quick and dirty" it here for my timeline.
The manifold and cross over pipe are rather intimidating upon first glance.

A few necessary and unnecessary steps later and I had everything mostly out of the way.

and for protection

Here is one

And I used, and heartily recommend Diesel911's OM606 glow plug reamer!!

See what they do??

And I cleaned it about 3 different times per glow plug hole.
[I have one of his OM616/617 styles too]

Biggest issue is that I have one intake manifold hole pretty much totally stripped and one that is on the brink. Of the 14 or so holes these two felt "wrong" when I removed them so I notated where they came from and used my 2 brand new bolts on those holes. [Oh, wouldn't you know they are right above and below each other, down by cyl 5 or so] One got a bit harder to turn a bit too early and the other one is just plain stripped. All kinds of threads came out with it the first time. Somebody just tightened them way too tight into that aluminum.
[red one is stripped, green one is thinkin' about it]

I guess I will have to deal with that some day in the future.....

Here is how the night ended. I had help from the next door neighbor's dog

So, in summation, the above is the downer.
The upsides of yesterday:
* glow plugs all working and car started just like it should this morning.
* Experience level on this engine and platform just above infancy
* replaced grommets on washer bottle which now doesn't leak
* HORRIBLE tranny shifting and clunking is gone, and car, for the first time since I've owned it shifts just as smooth and correctly as possible. [found 1 vac line totally pulled apart, found another one capped off that had a bad cap.]
* air now blows out of the center vents!!! [talk about a surprising outcome!]

I have a couple parts to buy now. One flapper valve was no good and tie-wrapped open, which might account for my "face falling" after shifts.
Somehow I've got to find a way to replace the accelerator cable, but I took a look at that thing and I just don't see how that is possible......

Oh, and I must say: these OM606.910 engines in a W124 sure do give you allot of room to work around the engine really. Just have to deal with that bulbous intake.
Stay tuned......

freesoul · #85 02-04-2009, 04:09 PM

Good thread, keep it up! I have the same car, needs a new wiring harness and I will be replacing the glow plugs at the same time- hopefully in the very near future. I discovered this when the GP light wasnt coming on right away and then coming on intermittently- the wires to the relay were toasted. Glowplug relay wires are toast

Mine shifts hard too and I am under the impression that is a good thing.

babymog · #86 02-04-2009, 04:47 PM

Hard shifting is hard on the driveline.

hanno · #87 02-04-2009, 07:14 PM

Damn that's a nice engine (car too)!!! I don't ever mind working on one like this. Was it EVER out in the rain?

milner351 · #88 02-04-2009, 07:23 PM

Wow - yours is remarkably clean compared to mine.

After looking at your pictures - I now understand how obvious my IP delivery seal leakage was.

I'm still fighting with a stuck glow plug - I'm glad to know yours came out OK, sorry about the stripped intake to head bolts - but that's not anything a thread insert kit can't fix.

Incidentally - what is the proper torque value and sequence for the intake to head?

JimmyL · #89 02-05-2009, 02:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by milner351

Wow - yours is remarkably clean compared to mine.

After looking at your pictures - I now understand how obvious my IP delivery seal leakage was.

I'm still fighting with a stuck glow plug - I'm glad to know yours came out OK, sorry about the stripped intake to head bolts - but that's not anything a thread insert kit can't fix.

Incidentally - what is the proper torque value and sequence for the intake to head?

I'm not sure of the proper torque or sequence.

I simply tightened 'em with the "one hand, not too tight" method. I started tightening in the middle and worked back and forth evenly until I got outside.
I believe this engine was steam cleaned at some point. Found more gunk under where the intake was once I removed it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by husk

I replaced the OVP relay and all is good. Jimmy replace this relay I have a feeling it will solve your problems!

BTW, Husk was all over one thing. I've had the intermittent tach issue since I got the car. Upon his advice I took a chance and purchased the "way too expensive" OVP relay, and it immediately fixed the problem! I was hoping that also had something to do with the digital outside temp display, but no such luck there. It is back lit but no temp readout.
Oh, and another thing: the "resonance flap" that goes on the crossover pipe [mine has a split diaphram] is $224 from Mercedes, $249 from some other online outfit, and $268 from Fastlane. Sheesh that thing is expensive. It will remain tie wrapped! I can deal with the hesitation for awhile.
My engine mounts came in and I hope to install those this weekend. It sure did start perfectly today with the temp right around 30 degrees. These things love 6 working glow plugs. [sorry Milner]

JimmyL · #90 02-06-2009, 01:32 AM

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