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  #1  
Old 01-21-2009, 04:53 PM
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Unhappy 220D Go time!

Alright everyone, I own this 1970 220D that has been sitting and sitting and sitting facing the the elements for the longest time at our mechanics shop. He's said he'd get to it and get it done. Well that ended up being about 6 months ago and the car is still rotting away. Interior is immaculate and the body's in great shape. I really just want to get the car up and running.

It's now getting to the point where i'm about to just tow it home and attempt to work on it myself. After all the times of asking the mechanic to get it done, we've got nothing but more months of it sitting there out of it. All I know from the mechanic is that it needs a fuel pump and injectors, possibly the injector lines as well.

If I were to attempt this, with all your help and my dads as well. Would it be possible to get this girl back up and running again? Is this engine that hard to work on? is it DIY-able? We're going to try one last time with the mechanic today and if nothing happens for another week, we'll probably pull'er home. Is this a good idea? or should I wait out until the next ice age for this thing to get done? My mechanic is an amazing, awesome guy, but he's sooooooo busy he just doesn't have time to get to it. That's fine and all, until my car starts paying for it buy drying out and cracking and being in worse condition... What should I do?

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  #2  
Old 01-21-2009, 05:02 PM
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Its probably easier to change the air filter on a lawn mower than it is to put a new ip and injectors on this car. Its simple really, just study engine timing a little and youll understand. I bet someone has a diy up for ip replacement on a 617 which is basicaly the same as a 615.
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  #3  
Old 01-21-2009, 05:30 PM
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The bolts that hold the IP on are tricky to access.

I've still got the 13mm (?) that has been heated and bent at a 90 degree angle to get to the fastener that is closest to the engine block.

Other than that, it's about the simplest MB engine you can work on.....

Jim
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  #4  
Old 01-21-2009, 08:28 PM
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This forum is full of archived information, sometimes searches lead to nothing, but keep on trying. The w114/w115 isn't as common as the w123 chassis but there's valuable information here.

That, or take the car to another trusted mechanic who's not so busy.
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  #5  
Old 01-21-2009, 08:39 PM
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Easy Fix-You Can Do It

You said the fuel pump and the injectors need replacing.... The fuel pump is very simple and so are the injectors. You did not mention the injector pump.
So if this car was mine I would first try to test the fuel pump pressure going to or coming out of the cannister type fuel filter. It should be 4 ro 5 psi and even lower will work.. If you cant afford new injectors I will ship you some used but excellent injectors that were used in a 300D turbo. If they help you, you can either return them or give me 15 dollars a piece if you want to keep them. They have been rebuilt with new nozzles by a friend.. Also even if this is a automatic I think you can pull or push the car up to about 30 or so and then shift from neutral to second and see if it will start. You might have air in the injector lines and you can bleed.... Just give me your number and I will call you... Jim
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Old 01-21-2009, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim16671836 View Post
You said the fuel pump and the injectors need replacing.... The fuel pump is very simple and so are the injectors. You did not mention the injector pump.
So if this car was mine I would first try to test the fuel pump pressure going to or coming out of the cannister type fuel filter. It should be 4 ro 5 psi and even lower will work.. If you cant afford new injectors I will ship you some used but excellent injectors that were used in a 300D turbo. If they help you, you can either return them or give me 15 dollars a piece if you want to keep them. They have been rebuilt with new nozzles by a friend.. Also even if this is a automatic I think you can pull or push the car up to about 30 or so and then shift from neutral to second and see if it will start. You might have air in the injector lines and you can bleed.... Just give me your number and I will call you... Jim
Unless the mercedes auto is different than every other automatic in the world, you must have the engine turning to turn the transmission fluid pump. Without fluid flowing there is no way to make the hydraulic coupling in the torque converter. In other words..... I have never seen anyone "jump" an automatic like you can by "popping the clutch" on a manual!

Pump the hand pump, bleed the lines, make sure you have a fresh battery then disco....it should work.
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  #7  
Old 01-21-2009, 10:22 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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YOu can pull start them.

I would be surprised if its the fuel lines, injectors or injection pump. Those are the first things a non experienced mechanic will suspect and the last that an experienced one will suspect.

I bet its a fuel problem or glow plug problem. After that I would suspect the compression.

I'd put a strong dose of biocide in the tank and wait a few days and then would crank and see if you are getting fuel to the injection pump. I would check and change the filters, prime the injection pump and check for glow plug function.

If you don't have glow action a pull will start it if you have compression and fuel.

Don't change any of the things the mechanic said until you try the things above.

Good luck!
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  #8  
Old 01-21-2009, 10:46 PM
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Pull or Push

I have started a number of Mercedes Diesels by pushing or pulling.. It will work either way. Tom is right but I never worry to much about bleeding the air by pumping the hand pump, usually bleed the air at the top of the injectors and fill the canister fuel filter with half gasoline and half diesel or keresene. I have started Mercedes diesels that have set for 12 years using this method without changing the 12 year old fuel.. Of course a really strong battery will more than help.
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  #9  
Old 01-21-2009, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim16671836 View Post
I have started a number of Mercedes Diesels by pushing or pulling.. It will work either way. Tom is right but I never worry to much about bleeding the air by pumping the hand pump, usually bleed the air at the top of the injectors and fill the canister fuel filter with half gasoline and half diesel or keresene. I have started Mercedes diesels that have set for 12 years using this method without changing the 12 year old fuel.. Of course a really strong battery will more than help.
You may not want to hear this, but I believe, given the warm climate, you must stack things in your favor for a good start the first time. That means some prep work because it has sat so long:
1. If the car has been sitting a REAL long time, you may want to consider draining the tank and putting in new fuel, or just running it temporarily out of a jerry can, once the air is out of the system.
2. Air can be anywhere. Charge the battery and take the glow plugs out. Test them individually.
2b. Get a new battery ground and main starter cable. You need juice to GPs and to the starter.
3. Drain the motor oil, replace it. Turn the engine over w/o glow plugs but with new oil to get all those bearings lubed for a real fast start when the GPs have been cleaned with a brass brush and reinstalled. Check the wires between glow plugs as well.
4. Replace the small primary transparent filter. Replace the primer pump with one of the new ones and prime the bejeesus out of the system to bleed air up to and including the second filter. Crack the filter canister and make sure there's no air in it.
5. Crack the fuel line on the cylinder farthest from the pump with the GPs still out. Have an assistant crank the engine while you mwatch for bubbles and air. Do the same to the other cylinders.
6. Hit the primer pump some more.
7. Reinstall the glow plugs while the battery is re-charging on fast, about 40 amps. Be sure it is disconnected when you charge it.
8. Spray a bit of WD40 in thto the air manifold.
9. Inspect the fuel linkage and make sure the linkage return spring is in place. It falls off sometimes.
10. Have an assistant turn the idle control, make sure the cable is pulling the linkage back a little.
11. Set the linkage at max acceleration for idle. warm the glow plugs an extra 5 second, holsd the starter down for about 25-30 seconds and let it crank the engine the full time and it should start.

Good luck! This walk through has always worked for me in even cold temps unless there was something seriously wrong. Roy will tell you what we found on my 112.00 ponton-- bad cam-- but we still got it going and I got a replacement cam
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  #10  
Old 01-21-2009, 11:48 PM
Fold on dotted line
 
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If you need a spare IP for this engine, I am pretty sure I have one sealed up in clean diesel fuel in the mausoleum of dead parts awaiting cryogenic revival....

Seriously, I do have a good pump for a 615 in storage.
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Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6
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  #11  
Old 01-22-2009, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80's old school View Post
Unless the mercedes auto is different than every other automatic in the world, you must have the engine turning to turn the transmission fluid pump. Without fluid flowing there is no way to make the hydraulic coupling in the torque converter. In other words..... I have never seen anyone "jump" an automatic like you can by "popping the clutch" on a manual!

Pump the hand pump, bleed the lines, make sure you have a fresh battery then disco....it should work.
Just read the owners manual. It can be done. These cars have a secondary oil pump in the rear of the tranny. That is why towing them on the ground for a long distance is not a good thing.
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  #12  
Old 01-22-2009, 01:31 PM
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Oh my gawd!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by strelnik View Post
If you need a spare IP for this engine, I am pretty sure I have one sealed up in clean diesel fuel in the mausoleum of dead parts awaiting cryogenic revival....

Seriously, I do have a good pump for a 615 in storage.
I actually just talked to the mechanic today, and it needs the IP. They had it running before but that's what went out. If I could PLEASE get that IP from you, that would be awesome!!!! let me know please!!!
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  #13  
Old 01-22-2009, 01:42 PM
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Awesome, thank you!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jim16671836 View Post
You said the fuel pump and the injectors need replacing.... The fuel pump is very simple and so are the injectors. You did not mention the injector pump.
So if this car was mine I would first try to test the fuel pump pressure going to or coming out of the cannister type fuel filter. It should be 4 ro 5 psi and even lower will work.. If you cant afford new injectors I will ship you some used but excellent injectors that were used in a 300D turbo. If they help you, you can either return them or give me 15 dollars a piece if you want to keep them. They have been rebuilt with new nozzles by a friend.. Also even if this is a automatic I think you can pull or push the car up to about 30 or so and then shift from neutral to second and see if it will start. You might have air in the injector lines and you can bleed.... Just give me your number and I will call you... Jim
Thanks so much! I just found out that the problem is the injector pump. I thought it was the fuel pump but the mechanic didn't mention that at all. He said they had it running before I was involved with it but IP went. I'm guessing if they had it running the injectors still might be workable? Hopefully I can get the IP from strelnik and get her started.

If this ends up being a DIY i'll pm you my number becasue the bleeding part might get to me a little bit. I really appreciate your offers, and once I get her home I can see what I need to get. Hoping it's just the IP.
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  #14  
Old 01-22-2009, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JordaanDMC-12 View Post
Thanks so much! I just found out that the problem is the injector pump. I thought it was the fuel pump but the mechanic didn't mention that at all. He said they had it running before I was involved with it but IP went. I'm guessing if they had it running the injectors still might be workable? Hopefully I can get the IP from strelnik and get her started.

If this ends up being a DIY i'll pm you my number becasue the bleeding part might get to me a little bit. I really appreciate your offers, and once I get her home I can see what I need to get. Hoping it's just the IP.

After six months of waiting for repairs, then to have the shop suddenly come up with "we had it running, then the pump went" I'd be suspicious of their experience/ability. They had their chance five+ months ago. I'd pull the car out of that shop and start doing the troubleshooting work yourself BEFORE replacing the injection pump (the work previously mentioned by other members). As mentioned, it COULD be something ridiculously simple and a HECK of alot less expensive than what this shop may get you into!

J.G.
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  #15  
Old 01-22-2009, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Gibbs View Post
After six months of waiting for repairs, then to have the shop suddenly come up with "we had it running, then the pump went" I'd be suspicious of their experience/ability. They had their chance five+ months ago. I'd pull the car out of that shop and start doing the troubleshooting work yourself BEFORE replacing the injection pump (the work previously mentioned by other members). As mentioned, it COULD be something ridiculously simple and a HECK of alot less expensive than what this shop may get you into!

J.G.
I have changed fuel injection pumps several times on these old benzes but it has never been the problem. YOu have to work at it to make one go bad.

I would ask them how they know its a bad injection pump and ask them to put in writing that if they put in a new pump and it still won't run that they won't charge you for the labor and will reimburse you for the new pump.

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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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