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  #1  
Old 01-24-2009, 02:44 PM
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Valve Cover Bolts Shredded

Well, I am in a bit of a pickle. At least the car is parked in my garage.

Long story short (as short as can be!)- I put a new to me engine in my SD a few months ago. It has worked great. I run M1 5W-40 in it. About a month after I put it in I noticed I was leaving substantial oil puddles on the ground. Looked like it was coming from the turbo drain area. I replaced the grommets when I put the engine in. I assumed one was not properly sealed. I have had to add about 2-3 quarts of oil inbetween the last oil changes.

Last night I park it in the garage and pull the oil pan bolt to let it drain. I come back a few hours later and try to investigate the oil leak. I notice oil pretty much everywhere on the passenger side of the engine. So it was obviously not from the return tube. I realize it is coming from where the valve cover meets the engine. Simple fix right? Wrong. The nuts would not come off and were stripped on 3 of the 4 bolts. I got one off last night by applying counter pressure. I cut the other two off today. I took the valve cover off. Two out of four of the bolts are shredded and have bad threads on them.

How do I go about getting these bolts out? One came loose when I was trying to get the nut off but is still attached.

Also, I have a spare parts engine with good bolts on it.

Is there an easy way to change them out?

Thanks!
Ryan

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2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD


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1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD
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  #2  
Old 01-24-2009, 02:51 PM
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Can you grip the studs with vice grips?

Sixto
87 300D
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  #3  
Old 01-24-2009, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Can you grip the studs with vice grips?

Sixto
87 300D
At the base of the bolt? There isn't much there to grip. I suppose I could just clamp the bolt as it is pretty long. I haven't tried. I figured I would ask here first. But even if I get the old ones out, how would I get the new ones to stay in place then?

I guess I want to know if there as an easy way to get them in and out without wrecking anything or such.
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2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD


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1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD
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  #4  
Old 01-24-2009, 03:06 PM
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try to cut the head off another bolt and try to JB weld it to the bolt in the head. Otherwise it looks like you might have to drill and tap for a new bolt.
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  #5  
Old 01-24-2009, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomInTheTrunk View Post
try to cut the head off another bolt and try to JB weld it to the bolt in the head. Otherwise it looks like you might have to drill and tap for a new bolt.
I had originally thought about that but I was checking to see if there is a way to get them out and in without cutting, etc. It may have to come to that. I guess you guys are saying there is no easier way?
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2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD


Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD
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  #6  
Old 01-24-2009, 04:00 PM
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If you still have room, and threads, put another nut on it (double nutting) and try to remove that way.
Remember, these are studs, that go in a certain way. One side of the threads are longer than the other. Make a note of which end is in the head.
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  #7  
Old 01-24-2009, 04:17 PM
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The studs may also be held in with thread sealant. Heating them up with a torch will soften the sealant and make it a lot easier to remove.
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  #8  
Old 01-24-2009, 04:28 PM
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There are stud removing tools designed to grip the stud firmly and unscrew it. I have had some success with them on studs that were firmly rusted in place.
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  #9  
Old 01-24-2009, 04:29 PM
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a vertical cut down the side of a bolt avoiding the threads will facilitate removal. Then replace ALL the studs that screw into the head.

Don't forget this 'leak' could easily be confused with the enormous amounts of melting goo in your intake manifold. Or even even the head gasket if the leak is localized.
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  #10  
Old 01-24-2009, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
There are stud removing tools designed to grip the stud firmly and unscrew it. I have had some success with them on studs that were firmly rusted in place.
Do you know what these tools are called?
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1985 300CD
1981 300TD


Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD
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  #11  
Old 01-24-2009, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graplr View Post
Do you know what these tools are called?
Stud extractors.
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  #12  
Old 01-24-2009, 08:46 PM
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There's the cam type that will fit a range of stud diameters but needs a lot of clearance -

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94640

There's also internal thread extractors for rounded bolt heads but they work on studs as well -

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96335

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  #13  
Old 01-24-2009, 09:17 PM
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Awesome, thanks. I'll see if the local HF has them in stock tomorrow morning.
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2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD


Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD
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  #14  
Old 01-26-2009, 10:29 AM
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Update- (for any future searches)

Well I finally got the valve cover back on late last night. I did buy both those tools from HF and used them both. When there was room for it, the stud extractor worked best to both take out and put in the bolts. It does damage the bolt so one has to make sure that it is not in contact with the threads.

I took 3 out of 4 off of both the engine in my car and the parts engine and swapped them. Two of three went in easy. The third one was a bit of a bear but I moved enough stuff around to get clearance for the stud extractor and it drove it in place.

I used thread sealant on them. The cover seems to be sealing now but I have yet to start it and check for sure.

I checked and adjusted my valves while I was in there. I was suprised to see that nearly all my exhaust valves were loose and nearly all my intake valves were tight. I put them to spec and loosened the intakes a bit so that a .10 would slide in easily and .15 would either fit with effort or come just shy of fitting since it is really cold here and the FSM reccommends this.

I broke the tube going from the back of the turbo/manifold to the changeover valve before the ALDA. It was getting late so I just quit. But today sometime I'm going to heat up the tube to reseal it on the bolt and reconnect everything and fire it up and see how the leak is. I did put oil in it last night as well.

Thanks everyone for the help. I'll give another update either later today or tommorrow.
__________________
2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD


Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD
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  #15  
Old 01-26-2009, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graplr View Post
Update- (for any future searches)



I broke the tube going from the back of the turbo/manifold to the changeover valve before the ALDA. It was getting late so I just quit. But today sometime I'm going to heat up the tube to reseal it on the bolt and reconnect everything and fire it up and see how the leak is. I did put oil in it last night as well.

Thanks everyone for the help. I'll give another update either later today or tommorrow.
I did the same thing on my 126, it's old and brittle. I replaced it with a new section I got from ***************.
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Valve Cover Bolts Shredded-hard-plastic-line-manifold-sov.jpg  

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