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  #1  
Old 02-01-2009, 06:22 PM
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Battery, Alternator, Fuse? Ideas?

The 81 SD, greasecar has something funky going on.

Sometimes the car won't start because the battery just doesn't have
the balls. Trying a couple times will cause the battery to loose all
charge.

Sometimes the car doesn't start because when the key is turned in the
ignition, nothing happens. No clicks, no lights, no sounds at all.

Tim just drove it to work, against my judgement, on a day he will need
to deliver pizza and of course the car has decided not to start again.
It's the ignition thing this time. But he had to put the battery on charge
today to GET it started. Oh, he KNOWS EVERYTHING about CARS!!!
I am a little mad because if he can't get the car to start I will get to
drive 45 mins one way to pick him up. and 45 mins home. at 9pm.
When I am trying to make sure homework is done, kids are bathed and laundry
is done. Not like I am sitting here doing nothing.

Anyway, if the ignition makes no noise, no starter, no lights, nothing, which fuse would it be to look at? Number and placement.
1981 300SD. The car I wouldn't have purchased. . .

Thanks. . .

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  #2  
Old 02-01-2009, 06:53 PM
pelon's Avatar
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if were mine doing this i would check the batt connections, cables, and ground first.
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  #3  
Old 02-01-2009, 06:56 PM
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Will pass that on.

Getting dark here and I may just have to go pick him up if he can't
figure it out in the next 15 minutes.
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  #4  
Old 02-01-2009, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pelon View Post
if were mine doing this i would check the batt connections, cables, and ground first.
x2
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  #5  
Old 02-01-2009, 07:28 PM
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If the battery isn't grounding right does that mean that things that would work off the battery, like the radio, wouldn't work either while driving?
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  #6  
Old 02-01-2009, 07:51 PM
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Seems all connections are solid and tight. Battery replaced about a month ago. Not a new one, but a known working (at the time) battery from the parts car.

Car gives lights, sounds and headlights when turned, just a click when the key is turned.
Battery charger on it now. Charger shows dead dead dead battery after a 45 minute drive.

Alternator?

If it IS the alternator, can I take the one from the 79 for the 81?
Fastlane has 65 amp for the 81 but a 55amp with internal volt reg and a 70 amp for the 79.
Doesn't really tell me if I can use the parts car alternator (new for that car about 4 weeks before it died).
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Last edited by imagesinthewind; 02-01-2009 at 08:00 PM.
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  #7  
Old 02-01-2009, 07:59 PM
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Could be a poor connection at the starter solenoid end of the cable from the battery, the starter solenoid itself, the starter, or the key switch and its wiring. Can you jump the terminals of the little distribution block near the battery and engage the starter that way?
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  #8  
Old 02-01-2009, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
Could be a poor connection at the starter solenoid end of the cable from the battery, the starter solenoid itself, the starter, or the key switch and its wiring. Can you jump the terminals of the little distribution block near the battery and engage the starter that way?
I may be able to do that, but Tom wouldn't try it by himself.
It's now dark and his idea is to just go ahead and put the batt
charger back on it. Maybe he will just take my advice in the future.


EDIT: battery charger claims the battery is charged but nothing happens.
I think he is quick charging it and the battery isn't getting the amps it needs to actually start the car.

I get to go pick him up.
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Last edited by imagesinthewind; 02-01-2009 at 09:11 PM.
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  #9  
Old 02-01-2009, 09:21 PM
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Seems all connections are solid and tight. Battery replaced about a month ago. Not a new one, but a known working (at the time) battery from the parts car.

they need to be taken off and cleaned. they can look good but not "be" good. as mentioned above, take the ground off the batt then take the starter wire(s) off and clean them with a wire brush or sand paper. also just behind the starter is the body to ground connection. that needs to be just as clean as the batt connections.

go to the checker or autozone and have them load check the battery.

don't look and guess on these things, make sure.
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  #10  
Old 02-01-2009, 10:27 PM
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Try the jumpering thing at the terminal ahead of the battery, if that device exists on that year SD. Also you might try wacking the solenoid with a metal rod or heavy wooden pole. Sometimes in colder weather the grease in the solenoid gets too thick and prevents solenoid operation. Think something similar also happens in summer where the high heat around the starter thins out the grease enough that the solenoid has no lube and again fails to operate with good battery and external connections.
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  #11  
Old 02-02-2009, 12:08 AM
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61x will tow start, but you wont have lites if battery is dead. If the battery is dead after a drive in, something is using current beyond the ability of alternator to generate it.

An old battery may not hold or take a charge. Check the fluid level, top off w/ distilled, or at least bottled water. (Put on safety glasses, pop the plastic caps off w/ screwdriver. You should see 6 or so total holes, each w/ fluid level about 1/2" from the top. Top off, replace caps, seat them w/ handle of screwdriver). Have it charged & load checked for free at autozone.

Your other battery, if good, will hold a charge for several days. Keep it in the trunk to replace, not jump a flat battery (less than 12 -1/4 volts or so). Charge it up every few days until you are at 'problem solved'.

Parts store like autozone will charge & load check battery, tell you if it's good. They may check the following things for you if you ask nice. Write them down as you go:

Battery voltage.(VOLTS) -Should be 12.6+ after sitting overnight
Charging voltage at idle, when revved. -should be 13-15 volts.
Current flowing from battery(AMPS):
When keys are not in ignition, all lites & accessories off -Should be nothing.
Ignition at run, all lites & accesories off (wait for the glow plugs to stop) -Should still be nothing.

If the battery is very low, it may not energize the battery enough to charge.

Are you near a harbor freight? $3.99 will buy a decent multimeter, $7.98 will buy two so you won't be sad or angry when one dies. A deal at twice the price. A useful multimeter is still worth almost any asking price when you need it, so get one and learn to use it. They come with instructions of varying quality. Haynes, Chilton and mercedes benz manuals for the W123 cars all come with basic electrical troubleshooting instructions. Looks like you either have a current leak (short circuit), a bad charging system, or both. A short circuit can light off your dashboard if it's hiding there, and the rest will follow (ask the guy with an engine sitting in a smudge mark).

Report back if you get any information.
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  #12  
Old 02-02-2009, 01:01 AM
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Electrical portion of the Ignition Switch

When you've ruled out everything else...


OR
Attached Thumbnails
Battery, Alternator, Fuse?  Ideas?-screenhunter_02-feb.-02-01.03.gif  
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  #13  
Old 02-02-2009, 11:11 AM
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This may sound silly..

And might probably be too late too... but, has he tried running the shift through all the gears? Just to make sure that it is really in P or N and not in R or D

You never know...my wife did it once, I did it once... yep, its all us people who drove manual shifts all our lives...
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  #14  
Old 02-02-2009, 11:33 AM
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Will it start in "N"? What about the Nuetral safety switch or worn shifter bushings?
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  #15  
Old 02-02-2009, 11:54 AM
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How about water level in battery? Corrosion at ground connetion? Have you tried an amperage draw when the key is on? Corrosion on solenoid connections? Has it rained or does it rain fairly often? Just some ideas I would look for...

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