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  #1  
Old 02-01-2009, 09:32 PM
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SLS trouble car dropping on one side.....

Been working on my 80 wagon,did engine and transmission mounts,engine shocks,valve adjust and some other stuff in the last 2 days.Went for a drive this evening car runs so much better.Anyhow got home and reversed up on my ramps to do the tank screen,noticed the drivers side strut was damp underneath.Drove car off ramps and driver side bottomed out...Is the driver side strut toast?How are they to replace?

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  #2  
Old 02-01-2009, 10:59 PM
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sounds like a bad strut. they are not too hard to get out, you need to access the line from an access hole inside under carpet.I think I used a 17mm line wrench. there is also the top mount to release up there.

then remove 2 lower bolts and guide it out.
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  #3  
Old 02-02-2009, 12:59 AM
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Are the struts under pressure?Should I prepare for an oil explosion when I disconnect the hydraulic line?
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  #4  
Old 02-02-2009, 11:25 AM
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Yes.
Your problem could also be a leaking line I think.
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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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  #5  
Old 02-02-2009, 11:35 AM
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How does one know if the height adjustment is correct? And how do you take this system apart for service? Can you adjust the car to ride at a higher height in the rear if needed? I just recently acquired one of these and never had an SLS system myself either! Can't you tell?
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  #6  
Old 02-02-2009, 11:40 AM
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There are threads here which describe the correct height. Yes, they are adjustable at the valve in the center near the differential.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #7  
Old 02-02-2009, 12:29 PM
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Check to make sure the hydrualic lines at the strut aren't leaking. If they aren't leaking then the strut is shot. Removal is fairly easy. Expect a lot of fluid when you pull the line off. To remove the strut you access the top bolt under the carpet in the rear. Then remove the two bolts on the bottom, and pull it out through the bottom.

As for ride height. First you need to make sure there are no leaks. Leaks cause the rear to squat lower than it should, and usually will show up when the car sits over night. Also make sure the rear lifts up when you load it. This will tell you if the pump is working. If you have no leaks and your pump isn't leaking, then you can tackle the ride height. Crawl under the car and find the SLS valve, it's a square valve with 4 hard lines coming out of it. It is near the differential. Proper ride height is when the leveler arm coming off the valve is parallel with level ground when the car is unloaded.
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  #8  
Old 02-02-2009, 01:19 PM
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Well I cannot find any leaks and my pump is working. When the engine is running, I can see fluid coming back into the resevoir from the return line from the rear. When I put a load on the rear, it sags and nothing else happens so I don't even klnow at this point if the load adjuster is connected or not. I'll have to check for that next. Hydraulic fluid is clean and looks like honey though, that's a good sign!
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  #9  
Old 02-02-2009, 05:55 PM
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If the rear isn't lifting when load and the engine is running you have one of three things happening.
1. Your leveling valve is not connected.
2. There is an internal leak in the valve that is not allowing it to work properly.
3. Your pump is shot.
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  #10  
Old 02-02-2009, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
If the rear isn't lifting when load and the engine is running you have one of three things happening.
1. Your leveling valve is not connected.
2. There is an internal leak in the valve that is not allowing it to work properly.
3. Your pump is shot.
Wow. Them's the three things huh? Well, let's hope it is the #1 or #2. I hope it isn't #3.
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  #11  
Old 02-02-2009, 06:41 PM
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I went ahead and pulled the strut....It was leaking,not a super tough job!Replaced it with what looked like a good used one from PnP and it leaks worse than the old one....so looking for a good used one now...anyone?The rest of the system works well accumalators look fairly new.
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  #12  
Old 02-02-2009, 06:57 PM
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Well, I backe my wagon up onto some ramps so if I could make the back go up or down by moving the leveling valve by hand I would not get squeezed under it.

Nothing, but the resevoir looks like foaming oil is coming back from the rear and the oil level is a bit above minimum. Does this sound like it's too low to function properly? I cannot find any signs of leaking anywhere.
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  #13  
Old 02-02-2009, 07:19 PM
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123 struts are the one sls part I dont have. got a pr for 126. did you only grab 1?

MBNRA- maybe the arm is loose on the shaft which is part of the valve. I had that issue, every now and again the rear would top out- horrible bouncy ride, looked like a jacked up chicano rig.... I'd sneak under and grab the lever, it'd come down in a hurry. it was the arm(lever, etc) that was slipping on the shaft. tightened it up, all good.
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  #14  
Old 02-02-2009, 07:38 PM
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The elever is tight to the arm. I tried moving it up or down and nothing, zip, nada.
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  #15  
Old 02-02-2009, 09:59 PM
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OK, so I ordered 4 quarts of Suspension fluid today along with other things I need. I'll top off the system and see what happens. I wonder if air found it's way into the system and trying to bleed the leveler valve would help? There is a bleeder on mine!

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