My diesel collection - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Colorado220 · #1 02-02-2009, 11:13 PM

Well I started with the 220 Diesel. I recently acquired a Volvo diesel. A lot of history on both. I just wanted to share.

yellowbenz · #2 02-02-2009, 11:24 PM

Thanks for the nice pics. I've often wondered what my w123 would look like with one of those nice yakima racks. Too bad a long wheelbase recumbent won't work with those racks. I think these cars look the best when they are daily driver, functional vehicles. Truly timeless cars!

Colorado220 · #3 02-02-2009, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yellowbenz

Thanks for the nice pics. I've often wondered what my w123 would look like with one of those nice yakima racks. Too bad a long wheelbase recumbent won't work with those racks. I think these cars look the best when they are daily driver, functional vehicles. Truly timeless cars!

What about using a tandem rack?? I agree a usable car is always better!

JimmyL · #4 02-03-2009, 12:20 AM

I would love to see more pics of the diesel Volvo, especially under the hood. There was a 240 Diesel wagon for sale near me that used to call my name. Even test drove it once. 4 speed stick with the inop overdrive. Smoked like a coal burning locomotive, but I sure liked the way that diesel sounded.

That front and rear belt setup would scare the heck out of me, though.....

Colorado220 · #5 02-03-2009, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

I would love to see more pics of the diesel Volvo, especially under the hood. There was a 240 Diesel wagon for sale near me that used to call my name. Even test drove it once. 4 speed stick with the inop overdrive. Smoked like a coal burning locomotive, but I sure liked the way that diesel sounded.

That front and rear belt setup would scare the heck out of me, though.....

Yeah the double belt set up is weird I AGREE!!
I have a vid of the motor that's it

I have more pics here ----> http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c353/Funrover/Volvo/

compu_85 · #6 02-03-2009, 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Smoked like a coal burning locomotive, but I sure liked the way that diesel sounded.

For how stovebolt reliable the VW 1.6 is it just didn't hold up well in 6 cyl form. For some reason when they added two more cylinders they didn't make the water pump larger or increase the oil pump. Any neglect in maintaince on those is a deathblow. If you keep good oil in a 1.6 it will run for a very, very long time. My 91 had 450 psi compression across the board... and that was with a transmission that put the RPMs at 3,000 @ 60 and 4000 @ 75! Top speed was RPM limited at 101....

Yours sounds pritty healthy though. Please be absolutely sure your cooing system is working 100%. When working properly the system can sometimes bairly keep up. Don't neglect the timing belts either

Never changed a dual belt car like that, but if it's like doing the standard 1.6 it's very straightforward. Just have to get a special tool to lock the cam in place. A 13mm socket will lock down the pump.

-Jason

Colorado220 · #7 02-03-2009, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compu_85

For how stovebolt reliable the VW 1.6 is it just didn't hold up well in 6 cyl form. For some reason when they added two more cylinders they didn't make the water pump larger or increase the oil pump. Any neglect in maintaince on those is a deathblow. If you keep good oil in a 1.6 it will run for a very, very long time. My 91 had 450 psi compression across the board... and that was with a transmission that put the RPMs at 3,000 @ 60 and 4000 @ 75! Top speed was RPM limited at 101....

Yours sounds pritty healthy though. Please be absolutely sure your cooing system is working 100%. When working properly the system can sometimes bairly keep up. Don't neglect the timing belts either

Never changed a dual belt car like that, but if it's like doing the standard 1.6 it's very straightforward. Just have to get a special tool to lock the cam in place. A 13mm socket will lock down the pump.

-Jason

Shortly here I am gonna do the timing belt and a new water pump. The Volvo sat in a field for 13 years untouched so I have some catch up to do.

rosenfe · #8 02-03-2009, 02:31 PM

your 220 looks like mine-2 tone fenders-mine is a 72 with 85k on it.hope to get it painted someday

DIESELVOLVO · #9 02-03-2009, 06:12 PM

Hey Colorado,

Nice 264

. Definately do the timing belt on it if you don't have the record of the last change. The IP drive belt is not so critical mine has 120K on it and it is fine. My special cam lock tool is a 3" brass stanley door hinge

. Works like a charm. You might as well do the water pump and plan on pulling the radiator for the timing belt change. Good time to get it boiled out or just replace it. I just found an oem replacement for mine on ebay for $100. Most places will quote you around 2-300 for a new aftermarket radiator which I definately would not trust to keep the d24 cool. I have never come close to having any overheating problems in mine however. In my experience the factory setup is more than adeqaute for cooling. I actually pull the cowl in the winter on mine.

sd300td · #10 02-03-2009, 09:55 PM

Neat. But I have a feeling that by putting your bikes on top might double the vehicles value?

Which reminds me, I still need to retrofit my thule rack from the exploder to the 300td.

Colorado220 · #11 02-03-2009, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rosenfe

your 220 looks like mine-2 tone fenders-mine is a 72 with 85k on it.hope to get it painted someday

I have other body work to do first... but with 503,000 on it I can't complain.. but yeah I dream of new paint!

Colorado220 · #12 02-03-2009, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIESELVOLVO

Hey Colorado,

Nice 264

. Definately do the timing belt on it if you don't have the record of the last change. The IP drive belt is not so critical mine has 120K on it and it is fine. My special cam lock tool is a 3" brass stanley door hinge

. Works like a charm. You might as well do the water pump and plan on pulling the radiator for the timing belt change. Good time to get it boiled out or just replace it. I just found an oem replacement for mine on ebay for $100. Most places will quote you around 2-300 for a new aftermarket radiator which I definately would not trust to keep the d24 cool. I have never come close to having any overheating problems in mine however. In my experience the factory setup is more than adeqaute for cooling. I actually pull the cowl in the winter on mine.

Yeah the belt,pump will be done on the next oil change... around 2000 miles so I can save the $$ to do it all. I have read that the cooling issue is a BIG problem on the D24. Have any tips for this mess? I have found a down loadable green book and plan on using that.