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  #1  
Old 02-06-2009, 02:40 PM
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reversed jumper cables when jumping battery, now engine wont shut off.

I was in a real big hurry to jump start my 1985 mercedes benz 300D. L5 3.0L diesel, 123.133.
i accidentally reversed the jumper cables. there was a bit of a spark. but the car started up a ran great with no problems after that. but when i went to shut the car off, the ignition system shut off, but the engine kept running. so i took off the fuel line and let it run out of fuel. when i needed to start it up again the next day. it started after a few cranks to re-gain fuel pressure, it ran great again. but it still only shut off the ignition, not the engine. the engine kept running. this time i shut the engine off by cutting off the air to it. now the engine wont start at all.
i am thinking that at first the fuel shut off valve was just stuck in the on position. then when i put my hand over the air intake, it might have jolted the valve into the off position. but how could that be when the valve is vacuum operated? not electrical. or could it really be just the fuel shut off valve. because when i try to start it, it just turns over with no trouble, but wont start as if its not getting any fuel.
what could i have fried when i reversed the cables to make this happen? my email is PoisenSkull@yahoo.com.


Last edited by PoisenSkull; 02-06-2009 at 02:43 PM. Reason: forgot contact info
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  #2  
Old 02-06-2009, 02:49 PM
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The engine doesn't use any electrical devices to shut itself down. The keyswitch provides vacuum to the shutoff valve on the back of the injection pump and it closes a diaphragm to cut the fuel to the engine.

What most likely occurred is that you disturbed a vacuum line on the driver's side of the engine and a vacuum hose was disconnected.
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  #3  
Old 02-06-2009, 02:49 PM
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check your vacuum lines. You probably knocked something loose. Look on the driver's side of the engine, middle of the valve cover. Push the button that says stop next time rather than disconnecting a fuel line.

You're going to need to prime the fuel system now that you've run it out of fuel.
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  #4  
Old 02-06-2009, 02:56 PM
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You might have burned ignition switch with 24 volts instead of 12.Check all fuse,relays,wiring.
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  #5  
Old 02-06-2009, 03:45 PM
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There is a manual shut off lever on these cars, at the linkage center left of valve cover. Just push it to make the engine shut off if it won't shut off with the key. You probably have sucked air into the fuel system causing the no-start condition. Is your glowlight working?
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  #6  
Old 02-06-2009, 03:51 PM
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Actually, that could just short out the battery, alternator, and other electricals, and would not juice it w/24 volts. 2 12 volt batteries in a series would give it 24 volts.

Sounds like a vacuum issue like stated. To shut down under the hood, all you have to do is press the "stop" lever. That is also where to check for lack of vacuum when the key is in the off position. You will need a mity vac as well, and you can test the shut off valve, and to see if vacuum is present when you shut down the engine.
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  #7  
Old 02-06-2009, 11:16 PM
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One the end of the Injection Pump facing the firewall, there is a brown vacuum line connecting to the fuel shut off. It goes through the firewall to the vac. valve on the end of the ignition switch.

A second brown vac. line is the vac. source and it to goes to the ignition switch.

Check to see if you knocked one of those off.

There is a mess of vac. lines inthe area above the oil filter housing, can be confusing trying to figure out what line goes where.

The large black line, comes from the vacuum pump to the brake booster. then vac. is pulled off it to the various systems.

green line is for the climate/AC stuff.

Yellow line supplys the vac. storage under the rear shelf. and a second yellow line goes to the Drivers door for the door locks, trunk and fuel door.
These two lines come off a yellow check valve at the firewall.


I agree you must have air still trapped in the filter or lines from disconnecting the fuel line. the fuel pump or lift pump is down on the side of the Injection pump. you will see either a black cylinder or a round flat knob. If the black one, just pump it up and down, If the other unscrew it, it will pop up and just push it up and down to pump fuel from the tank to purge the air from the system. then push it down and tighten the knob.

I don`t know if I would want to use my hand to block off the air to kill the engine. If you pull the U-Tube to the Turbo and put your hand there, the suction could pull your fingers into the impellers of the spinning Turbo.

Charlie
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  #8  
Old 02-07-2009, 12:17 AM
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electricals are working

thank you for all your advice. much appreciated.
when i try to start the engine up again, all the ignition is working. even the glow plug light. and it turns over normal. but not enough to start. i could check and see if the battery isnt putting out enough juice.
i also checked all the fuses, and they are all ok.
there is a big mess of vacuum tubes to check out, i will check them out in the morning, see whats where.
i will try the primer pump as well. last time i tried it, it sounded like bubbles coming up in the fuel tank or something. how much should i really pump it?
i will try everything. and get back to you after the weekend.
im still learning with this car. it has saved me hundreds running on WVO. so im still putting effort to get it running for spring.
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  #9  
Old 02-07-2009, 12:35 AM
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is it possible that i could have ruined the fuel shut off valve? or something in the vacuume system by cutting off the air at the turbo. didnt think of the turbo impellers, i will never do that again. didnt notice a stop button on the linkage either. took another look and slapped myself on the forehead when i saw it. when this car works, it works great. but man there is alot to learn with it.
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  #10  
Old 02-07-2009, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoisenSkull View Post
thank you for all your advice. much appreciated.
when i try to start the engine up again, all the ignition is working. even the glow plug light. and it turns over normal. but not enough to start. i could check and see if the battery isnt putting out enough juice.
i also checked all the fuses, and they are all ok.
there is a big mess of vacuum tubes to check out, i will check them out in the morning, see whats where.
i will try the primer pump as well. last time i tried it, it sounded like bubbles coming up in the fuel tank or something. how much should i really pump it?
i will try everything. and get back to you after the weekend.
im still learning with this car. it has saved me hundreds running on WVO. so im still putting effort to get it running for spring.
Since you are running WVO, and not knowing the type of setup your car has, is it possible you fried an electrical component in the WVO system. I know some cars have two tank systems, one tank systems, and home made systems, so I am only taking a stab in the dark......good luck
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  #11  
Old 02-11-2009, 12:54 PM
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im not running a wvo system. i make the fuel myself.
i primed the fuel system using the primer pump. i have plenty of juice from the battery. glow plug light works. i checked vacuume lines. and the car still wont start. could it be the vaccum switch in the key ignition? i dont know what else it could be.
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  #12  
Old 02-11-2009, 01:07 PM
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loosen the nut on the fuel line at an injector, and see if it is puping fuel. Still sounds like air in the system.
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  #13  
Old 02-11-2009, 01:55 PM
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Disolving fuel lines

If you are making Biodiesel (I assume that is what you ment by "making your own fuel) is that true?

If so -have you changed the orginal fuel lines? Biodiesel will turn the 1985 vintage fuel lines to mush pretty quick and/or degrade the fuel lines enough to allow an air leak.

Common problem-you will need to replace the fuel lines with something compatable with biodiesel.

.Remember that lye & methonal in biodiesel still has the same chemecial properties not good for 1985-era rubber.

Another air culprit is the primer pump-it too can leak in air if damaged or worn

Another good/inexpensive thing is to replace all your crush washers around the filter and primer pump. they can also cause you to loose and not maintain your prime.
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  #14  
Old 02-11-2009, 02:01 PM
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The most frequent cause of no-start conditions on these MB's is bad glowplugs. Go to dieselgiant.com and follow his glowplug testing procedure.
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1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #15  
Old 02-11-2009, 02:31 PM
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if it's air, since you unhooked the fuel lines... you're going to need to bleed and bleed and bleed.
loosen the bolt on the fuel filter and pump the hand pump until it's free of air.
then loosen all the lines going to the injectors and crank the car until fuel flows freely from each one... it will start.

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