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#31
02-28-2009, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
 I think they figured it out. All I know is I've never been in the Navy nor the Air Force so ship and plane talk really confuses me.I'm thinking of going outside and starting my car, so I can see for myself.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more 
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#32
02-28-2009, 07:04 PM
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I cannot make sense of your post. Please understand this picture and repeat:
'left is loose, right is tight' 'left is loose, right is tight' Understand that the line running down the center vertically divides the chain into two 'cycles'. One is tension, the other is neutral. Can you identify which is which? Understand that this is what you would see with x-ray vision if you were looking into the engine bay with the headlights facing you. Can you tell us why there would ever be tension on the left side if you are turning the engine 'CW'? There is one item that correlates with your tensioner dilemma. The vacuum pump is a very forceful item. It puts a twisting motion on the gear labeled 'IP' in the picture. If you are turning the wrong way, tension in the chain is at its maximum when the vacuum pump reaches a lobe and will overcome the spring in the tesnioner. This happens once for every revolution of the crank. It may be possible that SOME movement is noticeable in the banana rail when turning CW due to the same forces. Last edited by jt20; 02-28-2009 at 08:37 PM.
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#33
02-28-2009, 07:31 PM
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I always say 'fan blows on the motor' and the rest is obvious. Lean on the PS nut and away we go.
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#34
02-28-2009, 08:06 PM
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Oh, Please!
What a daft thread.... Every time you shut the engine down it'll bounce on compression, 'backwards'--against Normal Direction of Rotation, up to half a turn assuming a 4 pot 616....(Assuming a good engine with good compession-One with poor compression can just stop....) Try it yourself. Start and stop your engine 'manually', and Look at the crank-pulley!! Dear oh dear!
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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#36
02-28-2009, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
??? Aint getting involved with That part of the discussion mate... Just run the engine, stop it running with the manual lever and Look at the crank pulley.... It'll tell you the whole story! 
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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#38
02-28-2009, 11:02 PM
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Tension
jt20:
I think we're agreed on a lot here. Because there seems to be some uncertainty about my assumptions of how this should work, here are a couple of explanations: Due to the direction of rotation, the right side of the chain (the side that runs the IP) is 'pulled' by the crankshaft, experiencing tension; the other side, which is 'pushed' by the crankshaft, is more slack (hence the need for the tensioner). If the engine were running, the chain tensioner would use oil pressure to keep the rail against the chain. Without the engine running, it provides some pressure with an internal spring (don't know about other 240s, this one has a non-ratcheting tensioner). Quote:
-------------------------------------------------------------------- What I can't figure out is why the chain is pushing against the rail with such pressure (it's not a small movement) and with such regularity (twice per revolution, it seems). Might it have something to do with the pressure in the tensioner? I primed it with oil before reinstalling it, but the oil system probably doesn't have sufficient pressure in it to make a difference. Any thoughts? This has me completely stumped. Alastair: This one has low enough to compression that it will just stop. Any thoughts on what might cause the chain behavior I've described?
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'Betsy the Getaway Car' : 1978 MB 240D, 582k 'The Mistress of the Sea' : 2001 Giant Boulder, 10.30k
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#39
02-28-2009, 11:19 PM
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how do you know this happening? What angle can you see the tensioning rail move from?
2 ideas: worn out spring in the tensioner (common and sometimes broken!) Vacuum pump applies a CW force to the chain once every crank revolution vacuum pump applies a CCW force to the chain once every crank revolution just before it applies the CW force.
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#40
02-28-2009, 11:32 PM
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I can see the top of the chain rail move, just below the opening under the sprocket. It's visible when I'm standing next to the P/S pump.
The vacuum lobe theory seems more likely than the bad spring theory. That thing was hard to press when I recharged it.
__________________
'Betsy the Getaway Car' : 1978 MB 240D, 582k 'The Mistress of the Sea' : 2001 Giant Boulder, 10.30k
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#42
03-01-2009, 02:38 AM
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Tension query
You could always just remove the vac pump to see if that is causing the issue like jt20 suggest...
Probably a good idea to eyeball it anyway and check for bushing wear on the timing device.... When I was rolling on my new chain....It did all sorts of odd tension feedbacks as I was turning the crank to pull it through....
__________________
1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad) 1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad) 1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad) (Open the pod bay doors HAL)
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