Hand Pump problems?? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Brian Carlton · #31 02-12-2009, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

When the primer leaks "while priming" = it can suck/pump air/foam into the fuel system = making it more difficult or impossible to prime the system...

The fastest/cleanest diesel fuel system prime is always achieved with a primer pump that does NOT leak.

The damaged primer should always be replaced as soon as possible..

I'd agree with this.........air can certainly be ingested during priming with a leaky pump.

I don't believe your data on pump failures............thousands is definitely an exaggeration............but, for the cost of $20. it's not worth the argument.

fruitcakesa · #32 03-12-2009, 12:40 PM

My pumps leaks when priming but seals when screwed tight but the mess. leakage on the engine mounts and waste are enough to get me to switch.
The queation is; since both the Bosch and Febi pumps offered for sale state that they are for petro diesel and may not be compatible with BD then are the internal seals what would be affected? Are they o-rings?
Are these pumps able to be resealed with viton or other BD proof o-rings?
Has anyone had experience with pump failure from BD use?
The original screw type pump in my 82 has a few thousand miles of BD use so far with no issues. Are the internal seals on this pump any different than the new style?
I don't imagine they are BD proof being so old.

whunter · #33 03-12-2009, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fruitcakesa

My pumps leaks when priming but seals when screwed tight but the mess. leakage on the engine mounts and waste are enough to get me to switch.
The question is; since both the Bosch and Febi pumps offered for sale state that they are for petro diesel and may not be compatible with BD then are the internal seals what would be affected? Are they o-rings?
Are these pumps able to be resealed with viton or other BD proof o-rings?
Has anyone had experience with pump failure from BD use?
The original screw type pump in my 82 has a few thousand miles of BD use so far with no issues. Are the internal seals on this pump any different than the new style?
I don't imagine they are BD proof being so old.

Generally I have found the new design survives longer with bio-diesel.
They can not be rebuilt.

hey_allen · #34 03-12-2009, 02:17 PM

I've found that on the rare occasions that I need the primer pump, the new version is very simple to use, and hasn't failed so far from BD usage.
(Admittedly, I don't use BD near as much as I'd like, due to the local cost!)

cgunderm · #35 06-10-2009, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

You don't.

What you do is to remove the threaded nipple to the immediate right (toward the rear of the vehicle) of the pump. Then, you've got access to the pump with standard open end wrenches.

I can't find a threaded nipple anywhere on the pump. Mine does not have a white top, but a black one, yet it is the old style screw in/out primer pump. The engine is a Euro 617 engine, put into a US 123 wagon, both 1980.
The pump is definitely leaking even when screwed in tight. I've had air leak problems for weeks now, replaced almost all hoses and clamps, to no avail. I found the whole outside of the pump is dripping wet, even though it's screwed in. I got a new style one ($15), but can't seem to figure out how to get the old one out. There is nothing in the Haynes Manual about it either.

whunter · #36 06-10-2009, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cgunderm

I can't find a threaded nipple anywhere on the pump. Mine does not have a white top, but a black one, yet it is the old style screw in/out primer pump. The engine is a Euro 617 engine, put into a US 123 wagon, both 1980.
The pump is definitely leaking even when screwed in tight. I've had air leak problems for weeks now, replaced almost all hoses and clamps, to no avail. I found the whole outside of the pump is dripping wet, even though it's screwed in. I got a new style one ($15), but can't seem to figure out how to get the old one out. There is nothing in the Haynes Manual about it either.

Picture please.
It will make a better answer possible.

strelnik · #37 06-10-2009, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DinNC

Guess I need to hit the pluming supply store...mine is the older white colored hand pump. The car is an early 81 300TDT. I saw a newer version in a salvage yard, so this weekend I will go grab that, and a few other things. What would cause too much fuel to be in the system at startup??

Don't you have any crow foot wrenches? should make for an easy removal.

I actually found a box of the old rebuildable fuel pumps. Used in the early 50s. They still work great. Am gonna rebuild trhem and keep them for fun.

Yes I'm crazy.
lol

cgunderm · #38 06-11-2009, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Picture please.
It will make a better answer possible.

cgunderm · #39 06-11-2009, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Picture please.
It will make a better answer possible.

Tried to post pictures. Won't work. I used the "insert image" function, and put the picassa URL where I uploaded the pics.....

cgunderm · #40 06-11-2009, 04:44 PM

Here are the links:
http://picasaweb.google.com/cgunderm/CarStuff#5346169981687537106
http://picasaweb.google.com/cgunderm/CarStuff#5346169987738582770
http://picasaweb.google.com/cgunderm/CarStuff#5346169984824312866

rrgrassi · #41 06-11-2009, 04:49 PM

Looks like some one hacked the fuel system. Where is the small, clear filter? It also looks like the return line is some how now feeding the lift pump...

That is the old style primer pump, though.

My car had the new type when I bought it. Guess what...it leaked the first time I changed the filters and needed to use it. It has since been replaced with another new style.

cgunderm · #42 06-11-2009, 05:24 PM

I agree, the pump needs to be changed. I just can't figure out how to get the old one out....
The fuel lines are ok. This car has a vegetable oil conversion system, and I looped the return. The old return line is shut off. There is no prefilter. The car has run perfectly with this for more than 40,000 miles.

mbmc · #43 06-11-2009, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cgunderm

I agree, the pump needs to be changed. I just can't figure out how to get the old one out....
The fuel lines are ok. This car has a vegetable oil conversion system, and I looped the return. The old return line is shut off. There is no prefilter. The car has run perfectly with this for more than 40,000 miles.

Just did mine the other day. As Brian says above, remove the fuel line on the right. The exposed nipple is part of a threaded insert that can be unscrewed. On my 85, it's 18mm, easily removable with a rachet and long extension. Once you do this, you can get an open-ended wrench (17mm on mine) to the base of the primer pump easily.

whunter · #44 06-12-2009, 11:55 AM

Good picture attached to post# 22.

Here's my payback! Diesel Primer Pump Replacement
Here's my payback! Diesel Primer Pump Replacement

Fuel injection pump starvation with good a good lift pump
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/247039-fuel-injection-pump-starvation-good-lift-pump.html#post2133911

Fuel pressure relief valve adjustment
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/234609-fuel-pressure-relief-valve-adjustment.html#post1983946

OM617.951 and .952 Lift pump Repair kit W126.120 300SD W123.133 300D
OM617.951 and .952 Lift pump Repair kit W126.120 300SD W123.133 300D

whunter · #45 06-12-2009, 12:31 PM

Picture attached.

The "T" in the first picture is not correct, it feeds hot foamed fuel back into the lift pump.

If you have a veggie system installed, you need to post pictures of the routing for diagnosis.