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  #1  
Old 02-10-2009, 02:24 PM
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How hard is main seal R&R on 82 240D, w/AC

How hard is main seal R&R on 240D? Any special tools needed?

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  #2  
Old 02-10-2009, 06:44 PM
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Lots of discussions of this in the archives... probably why there have not been other answers posted...
I would read the FSM and the Haynes instructions before starting the process....
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:49 PM
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You must remove the motor and partically take it apart to replace the rear seal. I say let it leak.
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1976 240D 190,000 miles
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  #4  
Old 02-10-2009, 07:34 PM
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front:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617CrankshaftSeal
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  #5  
Old 02-10-2009, 08:29 PM
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How do you know its the main seal? They really last a long time. I would take a really good look at other sources for the leak.
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  #6  
Old 02-10-2009, 10:57 PM
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Check to see if the oil filter housing is leaking where it bolts to the side of the block. My understanding of the rear seal is that it is a two piece rope type. It is mounted in the rear main bearing cap and block. You would have to almost remove the crank.
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79Mercy View Post
You must remove the motor and partically take it apart to replace the rear seal. I say let it leak.
I have read on the Forum that there are pins that the Bearing Cap/Journal has pins that stick into the rope seal. So as above the Engine needs to be out in order to move the Crankshaft enought even to remove the old seal.
After that you need even more room to roll in the new Seal properly.
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:33 AM
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For the rear seal the engine needs to be out, upside down with the crank shaft out of the way.
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  #9  
Old 02-11-2009, 02:57 AM
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In the factory service manual, the very first steps in the R&R of the rear main seal are "1: Remove engine 2: Remove crankshaft".
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  #10  
Old 02-11-2009, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I have read on the Forum that there are pins that the Bearing Cap/Journal has pins that stick into the rope seal. So as above the Engine needs to be out in order to move the Crankshaft enought even to remove the old seal.
After that you need even more room to roll in the new Seal properly.
There is one pointed "pin" (on my 616s, anyway) on the block side that keeps the rope in place, no slipping the seal around
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
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  #11  
Old 02-11-2009, 01:24 PM
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Sorry, front seal. Got under the front to adjust the alternator and had a 'there's your problem' moment. Rear was dry when I did the clutch.
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  #12  
Old 02-11-2009, 01:33 PM
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the front can be done w/ engine in the car.

The common casualty there is misplacement of the balancing disk on the crank / dowel pins and ultimate failure of the crank nose.

take your time.
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  #13  
Old 02-11-2009, 01:42 PM
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There are several bracket bolts on the front of the 240D engine. I had my 1982 in to the dealer to have the front seal replaced many moons ago and went to the pick the car up when notified it was done. They charged me to steam clean the engine and then a $2.00 bolt. Seems one of those bolts penetrates an oil passage and over time it gets loose and oil leaks out. Mine fell out and a lot of oil "leaked" out. Anyway, it was under $50, with most of it for the steam cleaning.

Check the bracket bolts - that they are all there and that they are all snugged up tight. Jim
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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #14  
Old 02-11-2009, 02:34 PM
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Anyone have pictures of these bolts?
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  #15  
Old 02-11-2009, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimSmith View Post
There are several bracket bolts on the front of the 240D engine. I had my 1982 in to the dealer to have the front seal replaced many moons ago and went to the pick the car up when notified it was done. They charged me to steam clean the engine and then a $2.00 bolt. Seems one of those bolts penetrates an oil passage and over time it gets loose and oil leaks out. Mine fell out and a lot of oil "leaked" out. Anyway, it was under $50, with most of it for the steam cleaning.

Check the bracket bolts - that they are all there and that they are all snugged up tight. Jim
Thanks for sharing, that could save someone allot of work

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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