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  #31  
Old 02-23-2009, 06:57 PM
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What I did to use the socket was cut a small piece of 3/4 square stock, put it in socket, and use a wrench on that. Worked well for me.


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1984 MB 300SD Turbo

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  #32  
Old 02-23-2009, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Z View Post
What I did to use the socket was cut a small piece of 3/4 square stock, put it in socket, and use a wrench on that. Worked well for me.


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1984 MB 300SD Turbo

I wish that I had of thought of that I would have cut a piece and sent it along to him.
old age and brain dead oh well
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  #33  
Old 02-24-2009, 09:16 AM
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Robert, I can't thank you enough for your kindness in helping me out.

I think that in between the 3/4" bar wrench and the 1/2" with an adapter, (I have both) I should be able to get the socket to turn just fine. I followed your advice about the brass fitting, and it came out with a 19mm box-end easily.

I'll update again once the socket gets here.
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  #34  
Old 02-24-2009, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
Robert, I can't thank you enough for your kindness in helping me out.

I think that in between the 3/4" bar wrench and the 1/2" with an adapter, (I have both) I should be able to get the socket to turn just fine. I followed your advice about the brass fitting, and it came out with a 19mm box-end easily.

I'll update again once the socket gets here.
You might get the socket tomorrow but I would not hold my breath. While you are waiting fore the socket now would be a great time to clean the fuel gage and syphon out the last of the fuel.
Robert

(edit) Sorry brain dead again --- you need the socket to get the sender out
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  #35  
Old 02-26-2009, 01:00 PM
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Robert, you are a hero. The socket was waiting for me last night when I got home (unfortunately after dark so I couldn't do the work then and there).

The socket worked perfectly, and I had the tank screen out minutes. Some gasoline and a good scrubbing with a toothbrush (outside) and .45 caliber bore brush (inside) had it perfectly clean. Since I was "in there," I replaced the rubber fuel hose when I reinstalled everything.

A gallon of diesel fuel and a good minute of hand priming later and she started right up!


It bears repeating: Robert, (LuckyEddie) you are a hero. I wouldn't have a running car today if it weren't for you.
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  #36  
Old 02-26-2009, 01:28 PM
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I am glad that I could help

Robert

Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
Robert, you are a hero. The socket was waiting for me last night when I got home (unfortunately after dark so I couldn't do the work then and there).

The socket worked perfectly, and I had the tank screen out minutes. Some gasoline and a good scrubbing with a toothbrush (outside) and .45 caliber bore brush (inside) had it perfectly clean. Since I was "in there," I replaced the rubber fuel hose when I reinstalled everything.

A gallon of diesel fuel and a good minute of hand priming later and she started right up!


It bears repeating: Robert, (LuckyEddie) you are a hero. I wouldn't have a running car today if it weren't for you.
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  #37  
Old 02-26-2009, 02:46 PM
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pleiades -
Now that your done using that socket, how about letting me buy/rent it off of you? :-)

Let me know as I need to do this on my car as well but I cant justify buying a socket for 40 bucks only to use it once or twice.... argh!
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  #38  
Old 02-26-2009, 03:28 PM
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What's the strainer torqued to? Just enough to seal the o-ring or gasket I presume. Can't be that much. Is there room to use a chisel and hammer to "walk" it off"? What's wrong with that? If you don't want to nick it, how about take a piece of 3/32 sheet metal strip and make an open end wrench with a hand grinder and bend it to the right angle? Is there room for that? If no room, you can make it shorter one and put a square drive on it like a crowfoot. Some of those fan hub wrenches may fit and a set from Harbor Freight is around $22? Turning down a big socket on a lathe is not within the capability of most DIY shade tree mechanics.

What do most people do?

1. Replace the strainer with a new one. or
2. Clean the old strainer and replace? or
3. Cut away the strainer totally?

I would choose 3.
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  #39  
Old 02-26-2009, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
What's the strainer torqued to? Just enough to seal the o-ring or gasket I presume. Can't be that much. Is there room to use a chisel and hammer to "walk" it off"? What's wrong with that? If you don't want to nick it, how about take a piece of 3/32 sheet metal strip and make an open end wrench with a hand grinder and bend it to the right angle? Is there room for that? If no room, you can make it shorter one and put a square drive on it like a crowfoot. Some of those fan hub wrenches may fit and a set from Harbor Freight is around $22? Turning down a big socket on a lathe is not within the capability of most DIY shade tree mechanics.

What do most people do?

1. Replace the strainer with a new one. or
2. Clean the old strainer and replace? or
3. Cut away the strainer totally?

I would choose 3.


Run the strainer in till it contacts the tank then 1/8 turn more. It is not real tight but the o ring will lock it on.

You can drift it off with a chisel but if you nick the tank you are up the creek. The o ring tends to damp out the force from the chisel also.

If you get it out in one piece you can clean it and save the $30 + shipping for a new one. and they only need cleaning every twenty years or so.

The socket will only cut with carbide and the chips come off red. You could possibly use a grinder as previously mentioned.

Remove the tank then it would be easy to deal with.

Last make a wire hook that will go in through where the hose fitting threads in and destroy the screen or rip it open (Not me) look at previous pictures.
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  #40  
Old 02-26-2009, 07:31 PM
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project84300sd - I'm happy to loan it to you for free. Send me a PM with your address.
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  #41  
Old 02-26-2009, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
project84300sd - I'm happy to loan it to you for free. Send me a PM with your address.

If you are going to send it may I suggest that you use a regular USPS Priority box instead of a Flat rate box. Regular Priority is $5 or less with the same delivery time.

Robert
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  #42  
Old 02-01-2012, 05:31 AM
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Checking/Cleaning the tank screen has been on my list...granted it should have been one of the first things I did, this is my first Diesel Benz and it's got other more pressing issues ( the secondary filter under the hood shows no debris and the engine runs well )

I will at some point like to do this and ( pleiades I may ask you to borrow/rent the socket ) was thinking at the same time it would make sense to change out the o-ring to a Viton one. I understand they last longer when you start running blends of Bio, something I also plan to do.

Does anyone know where I can find the size of this o-ring and or buy a Viton one, and also a Viton cigar hose?

The kits on greaseworks seem exorbitantly expensive, I figured on getting my own Viton line in bulk and making the cuts.

Thanks all!
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  #43  
Old 04-03-2012, 09:06 AM
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I am having powerloss issues with my 86 SDL. I pull over, pop the hood and find debris in the pre filter. When pulling the line from the filter, there is a strong sucking sound. Not good. I swap the filter with a new one and motor on. Not sure if I have a bacteria issue all of the sudden, but I have gone through about 8 filters this past week, so I pulled the lines in the rear and drained the tank. I was not able to see the tank screen described in the posts above.

Note the attached pic taken last night. I used a deep offset 19mm box wrench slide over the hose to easily loosen the fitting end to the tank. I did not see evidence of a tank screen and anything like what is described above.

I may go so far as to pull the entire tank to make sure it is spotless clean.
Attached Thumbnails
w126 Tank Screen Dilemma-w126-tank-connection_2012-04-02-21.50.59_crop_800px.jpg  
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  #44  
Old 04-03-2012, 09:47 AM
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Here is my before and after on my 1985 300SD. I was having bad power loss as well. I believe I used channel locks to remove the tank filter (it was 6 years ago), but I know for sure it was not the 'proper' tool. I remember I did not remove the hose; instead, once I had loosened the filter I was able to use the hose to rotate the filer out and back in around the axle. I cleaned off the filter with liberal amounts of spray brake cleaner and put it back in. That completely solved the power loss problem.

One trick to draining the tank that helped was to drain it as much as possible with the car level and then to tilt it to one side as much as possible. With a filer this clogged, there will be fuel spilling out once the filter is removed, so tilting helped limit that.



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Last edited by pwogaman; 04-03-2012 at 09:58 AM.
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  #45  
Old 04-03-2012, 11:37 AM
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I just went through removing the tank strainer on a 240D.
I have the 1 13/16 socket, the 3/4" adaptor, the 3/8" adaptor and the wratchet. the axle is too close and no room because it hangs down too far.

Then use a short 3/4 breaker bar and still not enough room.

My solution was to place jack under the Differential, remove the 4 13mm bolts and lower the Diff., then there is plenty of swing room for the tools.

This past month I have removed three of these things, and I concure as to what Tangofox said, that a 19mm on the hose connection will loosen the tank screen (sometimes). 1 out of 3.

I agree about getting a Diesel bath when removing the tank screen. the amount of fuel that suddenly comes gushing out, will depend on how much of the screen is plugged.
I have a large pan I bought at Home Depot, think it is for mixing cement/morter etc... black plastic with curved up ends.
had it lined up, and when the screen was removed, Diesel was on me, the axle, diff. trailing arm, spring, ground etc... good thing my piece of carpet cought some, but was quickly grabbing the oil soak stuff for the asphalt, (kitty litter stuff)


The above picture shows the fuel line with the crimp fitting. cut down 2 sides of it with a Dremmel, then pry it off with a screwdriver. pull off the hose, it is just a barbed fitting. then just slip on your new 5/16" hose and a hose clamp.


Charlie

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