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#1
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Rear diff swap question
What other things that is needed to be swapped when i swap the the 300SD diff with the 380SE diff (2.47)
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Current Garage 2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress 1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs 2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver 1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car 1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap?? Sold 1987 300SDL 200K+ 1994 S320 181K mi 2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi 1999 S420 130K mi 1980 240D 360k mi 15+ Others that has come, stay and gone GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN 1995 E320 SE 220k mi 1984 300SD 350k mi Last edited by Actros617; 02-10-2009 at 08:29 PM. |
#2
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You probably need to change the yoke..........the 2.47 might have the larger yoke. It takes a specific socket to to that.
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#3
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i might as well get that 380SE drive shaft... since i dont have the special tool...
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Current Garage 2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress 1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs 2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver 1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car 1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap?? Sold 1987 300SDL 200K+ 1994 S320 181K mi 2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi 1999 S420 130K mi 1980 240D 360k mi 15+ Others that has come, stay and gone GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN 1995 E320 SE 220k mi 1984 300SD 350k mi |
#4
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Good time to do the diff mount if it's been on there since the beginning of time...........
Good time to do both fuel supply and return hoses if they've been on there since the beginning of time. Good time to do any exhaust work...........since you'll probably take it down to make your life easier. |
#5
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Diff mounts is a must, Fuel lines are fine, Exhaust will be straight pipe soon...
Will the 380SE driveshaft fit into the 300SD...
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Current Garage 2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress 1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs 2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver 1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car 1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap?? Sold 1987 300SDL 200K+ 1994 S320 181K mi 2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi 1999 S420 130K mi 1980 240D 360k mi 15+ Others that has come, stay and gone GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN 1995 E320 SE 220k mi 1984 300SD 350k mi |
#6
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If I had to make a guess..........I'd say that it will fit..........but, have never done it.
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#7
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Speedo has to be replaced or recalibrated.
Sixto 87 300D |
#8
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...........or an electronic recalibration unit procured and installed.........for perfect speed.........with any size tires.
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#9
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if i have to get a speedo, it must be form any W126 V8 gasser, right???
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Current Garage 2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress 1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs 2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver 1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car 1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap?? Sold 1987 300SDL 200K+ 1994 S320 181K mi 2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi 1999 S420 130K mi 1980 240D 360k mi 15+ Others that has come, stay and gone GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN 1995 E320 SE 220k mi 1984 300SD 350k mi |
#10
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As long as it had the same diff ratio.
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#11
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My dad and I might do this to his SD this summer. (his rear axles and diff are on their way to doom)
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#12
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does someone have a link to the correct method for replacing the yoke? I meaured the torque to remove the nut and re-applied the new yoke with the nut at the same torque. So far it is fine but I would like to be sure it is correct, it was a very low torque which I think means there is a lot of room for error
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#13
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^^^ Actually what needs to be done is measure the rotation of the pinion/flange as originally install in the differential casing with an inch pound torque wrench. Take note of it first, then remove the old flange. Install the new flange and tighten down the new nut until you get to that original rotational inch pound torque. Tightening down the nut to the original torque of that nut is not the correct way of doing it.
Here is a video of a guy setting the pinion bearing on a Ford rear end. About 2 minutes is where he describes setting the pinion to the prescribed inch pound torque. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8APYO2sZyJU&feature=related
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#14
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Quote:
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#15
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Yes there is a crush sleeve that he was setting on that Ford diff. Which is why recommended forwarding to 2 minutes into the video to the actual adjustment. You are probably close and should be fine. I wish somebody has an exact spec to this, instead using this method of checking first and guessing if the setting is original. I couldn't find the spec anywhere.
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System Last edited by DeliveryValve; 02-11-2009 at 11:28 AM. |
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