Another (still) no start woes - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mobetta · #16 02-12-2009, 07:41 PM

go home, sleep in yer own bed- let it run all nite- it will only burn a gallon or so diesel.

speaking of which what fuel are you using?

coachgeo · #17 02-13-2009, 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mobetta

...speaking of which what fuel are you using?

Diesel. WVO is being collected for future use. I wont put it in a vehicle till its running right, tuned right etc and has consitent performance parameters. Without those I got nothing to compare with when adjusting timing to the new fuel's burn characteristics.

That and I won't have a space to put a settling area and Centrifuge center , for at least another 4 or 5 months. My home is not even finished yet much less anything else. Things take a long time when you doing it all yourself and your run a business too.

Graplr · #18 02-13-2009, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coachgeo

It tries to start.... does not just spin freely. Colder it gets the more it begins to kill the battery. I do let it spin while cranking while it tries to start but don't over due it so not to kill the starter.

If the starter is not spinning freely then it is most likely something with the starter/electrical/oil. I should clarify 'spinning freely'. If the starter spins and is only slowed down by the battery drain, that means spin freely (in my terminology anyways!

). If it slows before the battery drain takes place then something is wrong with it.

You can take the starter to an Autozone (or the equivalent) and they will check it for free. The unfortunate part of that is you have to remove it. On my 126 it really wasn't that bad, but it seems it is harder on the 123s. You could also try a switch to some lighter weight synthetic like Rotella 5w or Mobil 1 5w.

You may want to consider adding a heater. First double check you don't have one installed. It is above the starter below the air filter housing. You may just be missing a cord. If you don't have one you can get something like this and install it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Kats-1-1-4-ID-Lower-Radiator-Hose-Block-Heater_W0QQitemZ380102034143QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item380102034143&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
I don't remember the Benz's lower radiator hose diameter off hand. I know Kerry has one so he may be able to help. Verify the diameter before ordering one so you buy the correct size.

funola · #19 02-13-2009, 11:19 AM

For an easy, innovative approach to check glow plugs see this thread.easiest way to diagnose glow plug system - video

Do you have a clear line in the return to look for air? If it fires for a split second then dies that could be air.

Quote:

Originally Posted by coachgeo

Won't start in temps below 40 deg. (85 300sd)
Car often sits alot waiting for a day warm enough to drive it.

. Battery checked by CheapoZone and said it showed to be fine.
. New Glow plugs. All checked to get red at tip when powered before install. (well one is old but while in car it showed normal resistance. All others showed no resistance as in DEAD no contact) Now all show normal resitance when on car.
. Relay fuse shows power on both sides

Do not have an amp meter yet.

Wondering if something else Im not thinking about that would cause no start that the cold helps create such as cold temps can worsen poor contact in electrical connections

Since car often sits alot waiting for a day warm enough to drive it, I thought maybe it leaks in air. So other day it was warm but got same no start. Using 12v pump I put by tank... I primed the system at the filter. It started. BUTTTT...... on cold day..... this does not help; I tried.

Im baffled and desperate. This is my only legal transportation

coachgeo · #20 02-13-2009, 10:21 PM

Spinning freely as in...... spins at normal speeds turning the engine.

Put last two nuts on the GP's so wires are tighter. Had to use grease to make the nut stick to the end of the GP threads. Tried a few other methods but that one worked. Took a lot of patience and other Magiver attemps to find the one that worked. Used fingers and anything else I could find to spin the nut. Could not wrench it with rachet cause the nut would turn back instead of the wrench ratcheting.

While driving to get it inspected I had a symptom that killed the engine that seemed like an air issue to me. My nose was pointed slightly upward at the time. I hooked up the 12v fuel pump I put back by the tank recently. This seemed to give her a more normal life. hmmmmmmmm.......

el sea · #21 02-14-2009, 08:39 AM

Way too many questions here, but:
1. Is cranking at low temps a problem? if so check battery/starter connections!
2. Is fuel an issue, are you using barnyard recycled lard? If so clean the fuel system!
3. Has engine had proper maintenance? Valves adjusted? Filters Changed?
4. Why is a warm day required to drive?

"Every major problem has a simply solution"

Good Luck

coachgeo · #22 02-14-2009, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by el sea

Way too many questions here, but:
1. Is cranking at low temps a problem? if so check battery/starter connections!

As said before crank speed normal at first. Battery begins to drain as one would expect with each no start attempt.

Quote:

2. Is fuel an issue, are you using barnyard recycled lard? If so clean the fuel system!

As said before I have put NO wvo in this car. I do NOT put any WVO in anything till it is opperating properly on diesel.

Quote:

3. Has engine had proper maintenance? Valves adjusted? Filters Changed?

yes but it is due an oil change about now.

Quote:

4. Why is a warm day required to drive?

cause if it does not start.... then it cant drive...

coachgeo · #23 02-19-2009, 11:36 PM

argggggggg..... this is getting so freaking oldddddddddd........

Thought I had it pinned down but its been warmer here. Have had some performance issues that made me think it might all be an air issue. Sitting on days it was cool, waiting for a warmer day to use the car.. was in effect giving it time for air to get in and not really having anything to do with cool and warm.

but nooooo.... went out... turned on 12v fuel pump in advance like I have lately with good results..... turn it on about 5-10 min in advance of starting car. Pump you might recall is all the way in back with only maybe a foot of fuel line between it and tank.

Its below 40 tonight (37F) and right back to where I started. ****ing thing will not start at all. ****... I'm out of food too.

vwnate1 · #24 02-20-2009, 12:35 AM

No one has covered this yet , there might still be the red card detailing this in the glovebox...

cycle the GP's twice , throttle to the floor and DO NOT let off the starter until all five cylinders are firing.....

DieselGiant sells affordable radiator hose heaters , these work well and you get instant heat too...

Block freeze plug heaters are best yes but you're busy and not a thing wrong with the lower radiator hose heater...

coachgeo · #25 02-20-2009, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

......
cycle the GP's twice , throttle to the floor and DO NOT let off the starter until all five cylinders are firing........

Glad to hear my instincts are right. Had not read that... but it's way I try to start when it does not want to anyway.

I have a few coolant line heaters I can look at installing. They are the type that goes into something like the heater hose.

I'll start a thread on where is the best place to plumb that type in.

Brian Carlton · #26 02-20-2009, 01:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coachgeo

Glad to hear my instincts are right. Had not read that... but it's way I try to start when it does not want to anyway.

I have a few coolant line heaters I can look at installing. They are the type that goes into something like the heater hose.

I'll start a thread on where is the best place to plumb that type in.

I've read through your entire thread and I have a specific request:

1) Could you get a voltmeter and put it on the tip of the #1 glow plug and then turn the key to the #2 position and observe the meter?

Or, if you don't have a meter:

2) Can you rig up a set of five jumper wires directly to the plug sockets at the relay plug and connect these wires directly to the battery?

Nowhere on this thread has the relay been ruled out of contention for the issue..........and the symptom is classic for non functional glow plugs. Since you've change the plugs..........the only other culprit is the relay or the key switch.

coachgeo · #27 02-20-2009, 01:43 AM

it is suppose to be warm enought tommorow to drive home where I have a volt meter. I'll check for 12v at each plug before I consider adding one of the Aux coolant heaters.

vstech · #28 02-20-2009, 08:33 AM

it really does sound like you have a normal car with weak battery and lowered compression. my SD will NOT start without heat. All glow plugs are new bosch they are tested, and powering. my sd has over 400K on it, and it's just plain tired. I'll bet your chain is out of time, your IP is retarded, and you have just a bit too much compression loss to start your car. as Brian has said MANY times, new valves make a HUGE difference in startability of a car, I'll bet yours are just worn out, and you need a bit of heat to start. in lieu of a block heater, get a lamp and set it under the Injector lines, and let it run for a few hours. if it starts up fine, odds are good you need compression.
you can try to get it started by making sure the battery is TOTALLY charged up, running the GP's for 38seconds twice, and hitting the starter on the 2nd 38second mark and holding the accelerator to the floor and not letting off the key until all 5 cylinders are firing!