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#1
02-15-2009, 12:04 AM
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126 Soft brakes
So today I changed my brake pads on my 86 300SDL...first of all, these have got to be the most annoying pads in the world to change!! Second, whats weird to me is that after I changed the pads, now the brakes seems to be too soft...almost as if they wouldnt fully bring the car to a stop in an emergency but still stop the car.
I dont know why though...I didnt open up the system to change the pads...how could air get in? However, when I changed the pads, to get the piston to recede so I could slip the caliper back on the rotor I used a C-Clamp...would that have made air enter the system? What do you think?
__________________
 "Cool Blue" 
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#2
02-15-2009, 12:12 AM
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How much have you driven it since the change? They need to be driven to get the pads to seat on the rotors. Also cheap pads will give the feeling you describe.
__________________
 1980 500SE/AMG Euro 1981 500SEL Euro 1982 380SEL 1983 300TD 1983 500SEC/AMG Euro 1984 500SEC 1984 300TD Euro 1986 190E 2.3-16 1986 190E 2.3 1987 300D 1997 C36 AMG 2003 C320T 4matic past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350
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#5
02-15-2009, 02:48 AM
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The brakes on my SDL are some of the best brakes I've had, and I've driven a few cars. I put cheap pads on my TDI the last time around, and I've been regretting it ever since.
I would dump the cheepie pads and try to get some quality ones. They're worth the extra $$$. Your brakes are your most important safety feature. -Jason
__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket  Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E.
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#6
02-15-2009, 03:42 AM
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Thats not necessarily true. I put autozone Duralast pads on the front of my SD for my pad-replacement last year.....and they stop BETTER than the OEM (MB star) pads that I had on prior.....and way less brake dust too.
Cost of MB pads? $50 a set Cost of Duralast? $19...and they're made in USA I got them free because I had a rewards credit! They even have the sensor hole drilled in them. I put them on my bro's 300D too, and it will easily lock up the tires (as will my SD). Duralast pads = good!  I will consider them for our W124 soon as it needs new brakes all around (due to corrosion).....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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#7
02-15-2009, 09:18 AM
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Use of the C-clamp would not cause a problem. This is the easiest way to push the pistons back. Assume you left an old brake pad in between the clamp and the piston?
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#9
02-15-2009, 11:14 AM
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for future reference
Quote:
If it feels soft your best quickest and cheapest first action is to simply flush / bleed your brake fluid. It is sometimes possible to push dirt or air into the caliper ... so if that happened bleeding should fix it.
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#10
02-15-2009, 11:50 AM
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And you should be bleeding the brakes at least every 2 years anyway.
-J
__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E.
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#11
02-15-2009, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
__________________
1980 500SE/AMG Euro 1981 500SEL Euro 1982 380SEL 1983 300TD 1983 500SEC/AMG Euro 1984 500SEC 1984 300TD Euro 1986 190E 2.3-16 1986 190E 2.3 1987 300D 1997 C36 AMG 2003 C320T 4matic past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350
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#12
02-15-2009, 11:10 PM
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Thanks, that's what I meant.
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#13
02-16-2009, 09:07 AM
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Alrighty then...I'll flush and bleed and see what happens. I'll post results soon.
And if Im not mistaken...the way to bleed the Merc brakes is rear passenger then counter-clockwise.
__________________
"Cool Blue"
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#14
02-16-2009, 10:28 AM
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The way is to start with the longest brake line 'measured along the line' from the master cylinder. This may vary on different cars.. it can be routed differently from one model to another.. from one year to another... so best to look at how it gets to all the brakes...
When you do it this way after the first one there is clean fluid at the start of their line... I do not know enough about MB to say which way it is... this rule applies to all cars defined this way...
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#15
02-16-2009, 11:03 AM
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actually, it's best to get a power bleeder, or make one from a block of wood and a pressure sprayer... anyway, it's best to fill the bleeder with clean brake fluid, and pressurize the system slightly. like maybe 10 pumps on the sprayer, not over 10 psi... then just open the furthest bleed screw, and let it flow the dirty fluid out, until it flows clear fluid, then continue to the rest. all done, no fuss.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!  1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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I can't think of easier pads to change.
Linear Mode
