Hi all! Just wondering if there is anything I can do in the form of maitenance to prevent a build up of crud in my ignition cylinder? Dry graphite? Compressed air? Some other lube?

thanks@!

One of the members claims he shoots some WD-40 into the lock tumbler part; you may be able to find the thread by doing a WD-40 search. However, I do not know how this works out in cold weather, maybe it could freeze up.
Graphite is the old standby but it will not clean out the lock tumbler or repair a tumbler that is going bad.
However, if you are speaking of the crud/old grease that builds up inside of the actual Switch part you will need to take apart the switch and clean it out and if you want re-grease it. If that can even be done; I have not tried it myself.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks!

The Mercedes Ignition Cylinder (called "Tumbler" in the rest of the industry) has
"Leaves" of metal instead of Tumblers.
The Mercedes Keys are STEEL ...No Metallic fragments from keys to clog up the
Cylinder internals.

WD40,PB Blaster,Etc.,Etc.,Etc. are all petroleum type TEMPORARY Lubricants...
The "Carrier" (VOC like liquids) evaporate quickly,Leaving a sticky Gummy ,Varnish like remainder.


EDIT: Wrong,Wrong,Wrong Again !

Please see Max Bumpo's REPLY # 6 to this post:

"1) Get a can of the official MB cylinder lock lubricant, cost is ~$10, it has a key-shaped application tip on a pressurized little can so you get all the lubricant exactly where you want it. It lubricates and protects against freezing."

Mb Part# 001 989 26 51 10

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

A while back I came across some dedicated lock lubricant at a locksmith, but I can't remember the name at the moment. (isn't that always the way?)

You might try a local locksmith and see what they have, though.
WD-40 helps displace water from the door locks, but I don't think I'd rely on it over the long run, or in the ignition lock.

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-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...

I recommend three things.

1) Get a can of the official MB cylinder lock lubricant, cost is ~$10, it has a key-shaped application tip on a pressurized little can so you get all the lubricant exactly where you want it. It lubricates and protects against freezing.

2) Use only a real MB steel key, which won't leave metal bits behind like a copy will. Save your copy as an emergency spare. Take your proof of ownership to the dealer and spend the ~$25 for a proper key.

3) Don't hang a heavy key ring from the ignition key chain (the extra weight causes extra wear).

IF your ignition lock ever exhibits the slightest bit of balkiness, and you have to work a little bit or use extra pressure to get it to turn, PLEASE immediately order a new ignition tumbler from the MB dealer, and install it when it arrives. It will be VIN matched so same key will work in the doors. Failure to heed this little warning sign from your ignition may cause $500 to $1000 when it could have cost $100.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

I had ignition key problems in my 240D. First, it wouldn't turn to the start position and almost stranded me. Thanks to the manual transmission and some help with a push start, I didn't have to call AAA. Next I couldn't get the key to turn at all. I learned how to get the tumbler out with forum help and like I've always done with anything that's broken, try to fix it first. Also, I didn't feel like blowing $100 on a new tumbler so the incentive was there to fix it. I was able to clean the tumbler and that fixed it and it is still doing fine. Search for my recent post "240D ign key hard to turn" or something like that if you want to know what I did to fix it.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Max Bumpo,

Teilnummer Bitte

Vielen Dank!

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'84 300SD sold
124.128