Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #46  
Old 11-22-2009, 11:14 AM
tobybul's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,077
dIESELdAN, where did ou get the AL lines. I noticed there are a few sources online like Summit Racing, Aircraft Spruce.... for under $20 for 25 ft. NAPA nor Carquest don't carry the aluminum. Although Carquest sells an alloy tubing by SUR&R.

I need to do my 85D too. Finally got around to looking under the car this morning. Its pretty rusty where most the clamps are.

The car conk-out. Wouldn't start. After diagnosis, I have a leak in the supply line as its sucking air and so the engine won't start.

Did you change the return line too?

__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 11-22-2009, 09:12 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada.
Posts: 6,510
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmbdiesel View Post
My 83 300SD gets new fuel lines next week. Bought 50' of 5/16" fuel line from Napa. Going to take the time to do tank to front fender well. Shouldn't be all that bad, couple hours. If I think of it, I'll try and get pic's
A twenty five foot roll can handle the job on a 300d. You will even have a little left over. Maybe not on the 300 sd. I found it easier to separatly bend up the new smaller sections that are over the axle and join properly to the longer replacement runs ahead of the axel. Those shorter sections are where I saw the majority of corrosion.

It may have been doable with one solid run for each fuel line but you will really work to get that in my opinion. It just did not look very easy to me at the time. A little short of working room to bend up in there.. Although I was able to fine tune the separate smaller pieces that fit over the axle as required.

One other perhaps important item. If you see an area above the axle that looks like the line may rub on later. Just grease the line in that area and slide on a piece of 3/8 inch or other hose for the line. The grease is for future corrosion protection inside the hose. Would not hurt to apply under the fastening clips either for that matter. Depends on how long lasting you want the replacements to endure.

In the majority of cases you will replace the brake line as well. Funny enough it is not that bad an issue on the 300d. If you let the master cylinder drain into the new line until you get flow at the rear fitting and tighten it up. I found no bleeding to be required. Pedal was as hard as whern I started.

If you manage the one piece for each line in steel without dropping the axle let us know how many new words have entered your vocabulary. Each line installed in two pieces was pretty easy everything considered.

Last edited by barry123400; 11-22-2009 at 09:41 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 11-22-2009, 10:00 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 123
Does anyone have any evidence as to how Al stands up to salt? Salt is a nasty fact of life in this part of the world, and the old Al. bodied Landrovers did NOT fare well, seems the salt seriously aggravated the dielectrics of having Al in the same general space as the steel frame.
As far as the little bulge to (more or less) duplicate the original, I've had good luck with using the double flare adapter and leaving it at that (don't finish the flare with the cone),
plus, it opens up the burr from the cutter without making metal shavings.
__________________
1984 300 D runs, interior
1984 300 D light hit in front, RUST, mint/perfect dash, decent interior (see above), parts car
(hate to kill one)
1998 Dodge diesel
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old 11-23-2009, 01:09 PM
tobybul's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,077
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry_W View Post
Does anyone have any evidence as to how Al stands up to salt? Salt is a nasty fact of life in this part of the world, and the old Al. bodied Landrovers did NOT fare well, seems the salt seriously aggravated the dielectrics of having Al in the same general space as the steel frame.
As far as the little bulge to (more or less) duplicate the original, I've had good luck with using the double flare adapter and leaving it at that (don't finish the flare with the cone),
plus, it opens up the burr from the cutter without making metal shavings.
Whether steel or aluminum, once in place, I plan to spray all the lines with undercoating spray to give it additional protection from oxidation. There's different brands out there but I like the 3M undercoat spray. I think this would be especially helpful around the brackets.

I still plan to use aluminum. I spoke with Classic Tube this morning. Apparently, they will bend the tubing for you if you send them the old ones to duplicate. Just another option. Although I will probably do my own. I believe they charge over $100 to prebend. For that, I'll get the bending tool plus the tubing ($20) and be ahead.

Here's an interesting article on aluminum corrossion. I believe it states that corrossion on aluminum turns into aluminum oxide which hardens the surface which makes it even more corrossion resistant.

http://engineer.cmiwaterfront.com/whitepapers/aluminum_corrosion.pdf
__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa

Last edited by tobybul; 11-23-2009 at 01:21 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old 11-23-2009, 02:28 PM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,449
I was underneath the 1985 300D parts car:
FS: parts off of 2 w123s
on Sunday........and I'll be happy to remove the fuel lines before it gets crushed.
__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
Reply With Quote
  #51  
Old 01-13-2010, 02:29 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 25
W126 hard line pump to injector tubing ?

I have a broken hard line from the pump to my #2 injector that needs to be replaced on my 300sdl
if i buy bulk line, what size is it, and does it have to be metric??
just bend it and put a flare on the end correct??

i know a good shop but they only stock american and SAE sizes normally

rather than replacing all 6 of them i might just do the one till i get new injectors - then do it right , can't find a source for a new set. Is the dealer the only option or a junkyard unless i bend my own??

Please any help or advice would be greatly appreciated
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old 01-13-2010, 03:03 AM
compress ignite's Avatar
Drone aspiring to Serfdom
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: 32(degrees) North by 81(degrees) West
Posts: 5,554
Use the Mercedes Hard Line

Either pull one from a ReCycler's or order a New one.
(Phil at the Buy parts tab @ top of page can get it.)
Duplicating the Factory OE line's bends successfully is neigh impossible...
AND would weaken what's already not as strong as the factory.

'Most important part of the hard lines are the Plastic and Rubber Clamp Buffers
that prevent Hard Line Self Destruction by Vibration.
__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

Last edited by compress ignite; 01-13-2010 at 03:09 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old 05-12-2010, 06:10 PM
tobybul's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,077
PIctures?

DeiselDan - where are the pics?

I'm just getting around to replacing the lines - very slowly and hopefully, surely. I disconnected the hardline at the tank end from the rubber hoses connected to the tank. All the brackets are disconnected except the one above the rear trailing arm. It appears to have 2 screws instead of just one and the other screw is hard to get to cuz the trailing arm is in the way. I would like to remove the old lines intact so I can copy the bends and attempt to slip it around the arm. There seems to be enough clearance. If not possible I can always cut that portion and run rubber hose.

I have both aluminum and steel lines so I'll decide later which one.

Can anyone share how they removed the bracket above the trailing arm?
__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa

Last edited by tobybul; 05-13-2010 at 11:44 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old 05-13-2010, 02:24 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Having read this thread and others I decided to change my lines whilst my subframe, exhaust, propshaft, axles, and the whole lot are still off the car...

I can do some pictures of the car without the lines attached or pictures of the lines removed if anyone wants (Mine's a 1981 W123 300D). With out any obstructions the fuel and brake lines came off very easily - it was 5 min job - they are not bent or distorted so if any measurements are needed I can also supply them.

(If I don't respond quickly enough send me a PM and remind me!)
Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old 05-13-2010, 02:59 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Oxidisation...

Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post
... Here's an interesting article on aluminum corrossion. I believe it states that corrossion on aluminum turns into aluminum oxide which hardens the surface which makes it even more corrossion resistant.

http://engineer.cmiwaterfront.com/whitepapers/aluminum_corrosion.pdf
Yep that's the way it goes with aluminium it doesn't flake like steel. A process called anodizing utilises this property to form a corrosion resistant covering on aluminium
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old 05-13-2010, 10:58 PM
69shovlhed's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sterling, VA.
Posts: 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post
DeiselDan - where are the pics?

I'm just getting around to replacing the lines - very slowly and hopefully, surely. I disconnected the hardline at the tank end from the rubber hoses connected to the tank. All the brackets are disconnected except the one above the rear trailing arm. It appears to have 2 screws instead of just one and the other screw is hard to get to cuz the trailing arm is in the way. I would like to remove the old lines intact so I can copy the bends and attempt to slip it around the arm. There seems to be enough clearance. If not possible I can always cut that portion and run rubber hose.

I have both aluminum and steel lines so I'll decide later which one.

Can anyone share how they removed the bracket above the trailing arm?
that bracket is a pita. you need a short 10mm wrench and just turn it 1/12th turn at a time until its out. i did it on the ground w/ a creeper-- not fun. replaced both lines and brake line starting at the back and working forward. you can get the steel lines over the sub frame. it is difficult, and you need strong hands and the patience of Job. you got to prebend them just enough, and finish the bends after passing over the sub frame. you will have big fun getting both the screws back in that one clamp, but it is do-able. if i could have gotten aluminum lines that day i would have used aluminum, but the parts store only had a 25' coil of steel, so i went for it. brake line came from the dealer-- not too expensive, but then i had the employee discount. i always like to flare a bump on the end of lines, i'm sure the hose isn't under much pressure, and really doesn't need it but i got the tool so wtf.
i would not use rubber hose over the subframe. it may last decades, but then maybe not. also the tool companies make these nifty pliers for clamping the fuel hoses off. you won't need to drain the tank, or wear diesel fuel for the next week.
__________________
1984 300TD "MAX" 303K+ still going...
fast '70 Chevelle 200k+
home built Shovelhead chopper
Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old 05-14-2010, 01:38 PM
tobybul's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,077
Thanks!! Glad to know someone actually was able to do it. I got the car jacked up at the driver's side right now with 6 ton jack stands both on front and rear. And i do have aluminum lines. Still have not decided which to use yet.

Right now I'm focusing on removing the old lines intact and try to copy them. I'm like spending 30 min-1 hr each session which about once or 2x a week. at this rate it may take 6 months.

Were the brake lines from the dealer prebent?
__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa
Reply With Quote
  #58  
Old 05-14-2010, 02:21 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
By popular request!

Here are some pictures as requested.

I hope they are of use - I've just done some general ones at the moment - if you need more drop me a line in the next few weeks from this post (after that time I'm sorry to say they'll be off down the tip).

For clarity these have come off of my European 1981 W123 300D. It has no ABS - but I don't know if that makes a difference...

The pictures are made as though the car has been turned upside down - imagine the car sitting on its roof and you can look down onto the fuel and brake lines.

The three lines are spread apart in an attempt at clarity!








Reply With Quote
  #59  
Old 05-14-2010, 11:38 PM
69shovlhed's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sterling, VA.
Posts: 286
the brake line was pre-bent, but it was also bent 180deg in the the middle so that it was only half as long to ship. i think you should use the aluminum cause it will be much easier to work with. i can't think of any reason why aluminum would be unacceptable.
__________________
1984 300TD "MAX" 303K+ still going...
fast '70 Chevelle 200k+
home built Shovelhead chopper
Reply With Quote
  #60  
Old 05-15-2010, 07:11 AM
tobybul's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,077
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69shovlhed View Post
the brake line was pre-bent, but it was also bent 180deg in the the middle so that it was only half as long to ship. i think you should use the aluminum cause it will be much easier to work with. i can't think of any reason why aluminum would be unacceptable.
After reading the article about the corrosion properties of AL the someone posted above, its telling me the AL will work well.

Btw, may I ask how much the dealer wanted for the brake line? And when you say it was bent 180 deg, you mean you will need to straighten it out?

thanks

__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page