Replacement Hard Fuel Lines for W123?
Folks,
I have seen references to this, but nobody has posted if they are available. Can you get the hard lines somehow? Mine are very rusty in spots. I am going to try to coat them with POR-15 as much as I can, but I am preparing for the worst case scenario. Thanks, dd |
"Hard" fuel lines?
Are we talking Metallic (Between the Injection Pump and the Injectors?) with
compression nuts on each end? Or the Fuel Lines from the Secondary Filter Head to the: Lift Pump and Injection Pump (which start out flexible and Clear ,but harden and Yellow with age?) with Banjo Bolt fittings on either end? Or the Metal Fuel Lines that feed from the Tank Hoses to the Engine Compartment? I am sure Phil can acquire them all if need be. |
eBay has several sets for the 240D, and a few for the 300D, ranging from $20, to $75 for the set. Most are used but in great condition. Or you can get them from MB for your wallet, arm, and leg. LOL
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Sorry - I should have been more specific.
I mean the long fuel lines running from the tank to the engine bay. Ill call around and see what I hear from Phil and the dealer. dd |
the PN's are:
1234760201 - send 1234760301 - return $255.00 each from the dealer. The guy on the phone suggested buying a tubing bender and fabricating them from generic fuel lines. That's what I'll do if they are leaking. dd |
see if someone with a parts car down south can help you out.
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The tubing from the dealer is not pre-bent, its the same stuff (probably a bit higher quality though) with that anti-rust paint/coating on it. Way cheaper to get it at an auto parts store.
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I'd just cut out the rusted section, splice it with rubber fuel hose and put a rust preventing paint over the rest.
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If it was me, I'd replace it with clear nylon lines. Makes it easy to see if you have dirty fuel and t'll never rust out on ya.
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Thanks guys. Great suggestions.
Of course, the rust is mostly at the bends where the clips hold the line to the body...tough spot to replace with soft line. Ill have to go under there and take another look. |
I cut out the sections of rusted fuel lines on my wagon and left them in place to use as "brackets" to zip tie the rubber fuel line to.
Here's the thread I did to show what I mean: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/209382-leaking-fuel-lines-repaired-today.html |
Several choices:
Aluminum fuel line from Jeggs or Summit Racing. Replace the whole line with rubber fuel line. PEX. |
aluminum versa tube is available from aircraft spruce, too- best price I've found. about $35 for 50' of 3/8 OD, shipped.
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I've bought fittings and straight tube from Classic Tube. The items I got seem good quality. They also have a lot of pre-bent stuff.
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Quote:
I'm going to cast my vote for steel. I'd also go ahead and replace the entire length of tubing, since I'm not big on repeating work or making a patchwork of repairs - Remember that each splice can turn in to a leak for air or fuel. Enough bulk tubing to replace every bit of steel line under the car plus the tools to cut, bend, and put nifty little nubs on the end of the tubes will cost you less than half of just one line from the dealer, and that isn't even based on buying the cheapest tools. |
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