So I got 4 of the gp's changed yesterday. Ran out of time before I got to the back one and was looking for any tips on how to get in there. It barely looks like there is even room to get it out.

84 300sd

Thanks,
Tim

Yep, #5 is a PITA.

I think I had to remove the throttle linkage arm from the firewall to get my hands in there. The problem is not the glow plug..........it's the 6mm nut on the end..........drop it and you're toast.

Ratcheting box wrenches are the way to go for the glow plugs..........don't help much with the nuts.

Yes, a set of these are on my short list.

yep, gear-wrench.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

I use the ratchet wrenches too. I also use a telescoping magnet rod to catch the nuts. Plus pushing some crumpled up shop rags in the "dead zone" will help if you do happen to drop one.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

Excellent.........now if you could just teach that magnet to put the nuts back onto the glow plugs.........you'd be a GD genius.........

I put the nut in the ratchet wrench and put a piece of painter's tape across the back to hold it in there. Then I approach the plug with the wrench and push the back of the nut with my finger while I ratchet it on. Pressure from the finger allows the wrench to ratchet instead of spinning the nut both directions.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

I remove shirt,and reach around oil filter housing.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

I didn't think you had enough room to swing the ratcheting box wrench out near the tip of the plug.............

step one. build an altar to the diesel gods. any toyota or gm gasser on fire will do.
step two, fill altar with a fresh ram or goat and slaughter.
three. strip down naked, and coat yourself with a fair amount of the blood of the ram...
four... begin praying. chant for one solid hour to the gods.
follow above recommendations, but also plan to replace the heater hose where it exits the head, you will bend and distort that hose, and if it's old, it will break and leak... time to change it if you've not already...
no help here for removal, but if you cut the ends of the GP wire loops, you can thread the nuts on the glow plugs prior to installing them, then just pop the wires on under the nuts, and tighten them up. makes the NEXT time you have to remove easier, as you'll only have to loosen the nuts, not remove them...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Maybe it's tighter on the 126. My 123's have enough room to get 2 or 3 clicks of the ratchet with each toggle. On my wagon, the heater hose is not in the way, on my CD, the heater hose needs to be popped up on top of the oil filter housing to make room.

EDIT: I also remove the injector lines and the throttle linkage. I forgot that not everyone does that. I wouldn't be able to change the plugs without removing that stuff and can't see how anyone else can.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

I have a vague recollection of attaching the wire and small end nut on the plug before installing it and then using an open end wrench to tighten the plug. This avoided having to install the small nut in that tiny space.

Edit: Always with the hard lines in place. Not more than 20 minutes or so to replace all the plugs.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I recently replaced my on the SD without removing the fuel lines. I shoved a rag down in the hole and used a set of angle adjustable ratcheted wrenches. These are a must have set of tools. All I needed was a couple of clicks to get it moving. I used extra long needle nose pliers to push on the back of the nut when replacing it until it started and to keep tension on the nut to allow the ratchet to work on the wrench during the reverse swing (otherwise the nut will just turn both ways when attempting to use the ratchet).

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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...aman/Fleet.jpg

Peach Parts W124.128 User Group.

80 280SL
85 300SD
87 300TD
92 300D 2.5 Turbo
92 300TE 4Matic

I've never had a problem either. I just shove my hand back there (and I have fairly large hands). I do usually end up with some nice cuts from the fuel line brace blocks.

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Pull the hard lines.

Alterntatively :

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42