OK-- I got the parts I needed to fix the leak I discussed in the post below. The metal ring is actually a spacer, it does not seal. Just the O ring seals.
Next question is... with all the fuel delivery tubes off, and pumping on the hand pump ( at 24 BTDC ) should I have fuel coming out the five output ports at the top of the fuel pump???????? for some reason I don't have fuel here, or is this normal??

NO. They make a special fuel start-of-delivery tool to observe the exiting fuel. First you have to have your #1 cylinder at TDC and then you have to remove the sprung element under the #1 fuel port (on the pump) by unscrewing the cap, removing the element, and reinstalling it. Then install your tool onto the fuel pump #1 element and pump. You should get 1 drop per second if everything is adjusted right.

Good Luck
Dr. Adam T. L. Delecki

This tool is available at
performanceprodcts.com
part # 58-010, for 19.60$.
Just glanced at their catalog and don't get any royalties.

Good Luck
Wolfgang

__________________
Wolfgang Marquardt
1982 240D, 270K
1983 Ford F100, 260K

JBMills:

First try to get your terminology correct so we will know exactly what you are talking about:
1. The injection pump is the device that distributes the fuel to each cylinder thru the injectors
2. The fuel pump (mounted on the side of the injection pump) draws the fuel from the fuel tank thru the primary filter and pumps the fuel thru the secondary filter and into the injection pump.
3. Hand pump primes the system with fuel to make starting easier when system has been drained of fuel. The hand pump does the same thing as the fuel pump only by hand actuation.

If the system is opened by replacing filters or hand pump, the injection pump need not be touched. After system is closed, the hand pump is actuated by hand until resistance is felt. Then pump another 10 times and screw pump knob clockwise until tight.
Engine should start and run as usual. Note: if you got the new style pump hand pump, there is no knob to turn.

P E H

Bill-- you must be thinking about someone else.
I did answer my own question. I thought I may have had a problem with my injector pump, and needed to know if pumping the hand pump would send fuel to all delivery ports or not. I now understand it will not. I completely do understand how to set the start of delivery. so no problem there. The whole story behind all this is... about 3 years ago I was working out of the country and visiting my wife here in the states for a couple weeks. She told me the MB would not start and it had plenty of fuel, I only had a limited amount of time to check things out, and thought the injector pump was bad. I removed it, then I priced a rebuild. I decided to park it in the garage until I could further check it out.
Well one thing lead to another and here I am 3 years later trying to get the old girl running again. I almost think it may have been out of fuel to start with. So I have reinstalled the injector pump, and that hard to get at oil filter housing. I have since found the 80 amp fuse burned out. All the glow plugs glow like crazy when hooked up directly to the battery-- does this prove they are good?? I have adjusted the valves, and tonight will put it all back together. I need to check the compression -- will the rental shop have the right connector??? thank you all

If the Glow Plugs get red hot when connected to the battery, thay are good. If you have the glow plugs out of the engine, connect them to their respective wires and see if they glow when grounded to the engine when key is turned to activate the glow plug relay. Best way would be to clamp all 5 to engine at once with Vice Grip pliers and see if they all work. They should stay on for about 35 seconds then shut off. This will also be a test of the glow plug relay.

If the relay fuse was burned open, that may been your original no start problem, not a lack of fuel.

P E H