Oh Puhlease!

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

You have shown no factual points.

An automatic will revv up to the same RPM as a manual and do so just as easily, easier in fact.

Nobody ever said a "Journeyman Mechanic" is always right. I know lots of old folks that have been proven wrong many times by much younger mechanics.

Fuel cut in a om 6xx is way before damage can be caused.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

so please do tell us the secret, I hate to think I have been shifting wrong for 25 years...........

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

Yeah, blame the car. Maybe some of those 'stupid kids' just don't know how to drive!
I own an automatic '82 240D, a manual '81 240D, and a 5-speed '84 Euro 300TD.
While the PO claimed they had the 240D's automatic rebuilt, and I've come to enjoy this car for local driving, it still has it's annoying quirks.
The 1-2 shift jerks until warm-up, the 2-3 shift delay causes very high engine revs unless I 'persuade' it to shift with the accelerator, and highway engine revs seem highen too - probably from inherent slippage due to the lack of a lock-up converter. And, compared to both my stickshift diesels, the fuel-mileage sucks!
Generally, my manual 240D is more pleasant and satisfying to drive, especially on the highway. And my 5-speed Euro 300TD is even better still.
Again, examples of why I prefer to shift for myself!

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

I have never heard of anybody damaging a mb diesel from over revving it. Running it low on oil is another question.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

You just have to not run it against the governor before every shift .

Simple .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Yeah ~ ME for example !

Not this time tho' .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

If you run it as fast as it'll Rev., before every up shift , the oil will soon be on the outside of the engine and it's suffer....

This is so simple it boggles my mind you alls don't get it .

Maybe you never see the battered college kids cars I do .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

you could do the same thing with an auto, just floor the pedal to hit the downshift switch, the transmission has nothing to do with bad drivers. if someone here wants a 4 speed in their car, they should do the swap, the life of the engine or their ability to drive intelligently should not be greatly effected.

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

Since My origional thread has been hijacked by vwnate1, I will thank all of you other guys that followed the thread and gave me your honest and VALUED opinions on what the conversion is worth. I bought what looks like EVERYTHING I will need except the modified driveline for $300. For the money, I think I did OK. The parts are all cleaned. I have a couple of drive shafts.
Here is the link of what I bought.
Can anyone tell me about what year Mercedes went to the one piece aluminum case trans? Are they pretty durable?

http://www.schumanautomotive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8129

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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.

By the way JUNIOR..^^... I drove UPS trucks for 30 years and all the diesel package cars we had were run up against the governor on about every shift, every day. NONE of those engines blew up, blew out oil, belched or farted because they were reved to the defuel point. I helped the mechanic from time to time when he had to change out an engine and most ran 300,000mi plus getting beat every day. We had two 28ft box trucks that were Internationals with the 7.3 turbo diesel V8, same engine that Ford used in its pickups. BOTH of those trucks had over 550,000 miles on them, NEVER a head off and were run wide open 550 miles a night. The only way I know of to over-rev a diesel is to downshift to a lower gear at too high of speed for that gear.

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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.

If you got everything for $300 that was a steal...

Yeah, honestly, I wouldn't trust somebody selling parts that would CUT the driveshaft off and leave the stub attached rather than unbolting the flexdisk.

X2