'98 E300 TD with glow plugs stuck in head - Page 9 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mikemass1221 · #**121** 03-17-2009, 03:29 PM

I found a guy with EDM equipment who's willing to tackle the job of the broken tap. Of course to my dismay he just called to inform me that's it's not as easy as he anticipated. The angles are horendous for him to get in there but he still feels he will get it out. The problem will be once he gets all of the metal part of the GP out, he will still need to get the tip of the GP out and that's not metalic so EDM wont work on it. I guess I could just take a punch at that point, bang it into prechamber and blast out the remnants with compressed air, shaking the head upside down, etc. I have the injectors removed. I also have the special MB tools to remove the prechamber.......this is turning out to be some ordeal!

spock505 · #**122** 03-17-2009, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Todd Miller

Broken glow plug

Cutting the electrode off. I'd already slid the broken nut off of this one.

Electrode cut off

Drilling out the threaded area begins

Picking out the threaded remains of the glow plug

Getting down into the threaded area of the head

Center of glow plug drilled with 17/64" bit and tapped for 5/16x18

Grade two 5/16"x18 rod threaded in, and the glow plug is starting to come out. Note: Not shown is the step where I had 2 sockets slid down over the rod, 3 grade 8 washers stacked up, and a grade 8 nut being tightened against the washers

Glow plug removed. Note: I had to switch to a 13mm deep well socket so that the glow plug could be sucked all the way out of the head.

Re-tapping the head 12mmx1.25pitch

I found it difficult to keep the small drill on centre as the electrode moved side to side, any tips on hows you accomplished this?

Also how do you maintain the correct angle when drilling out for tapping, Btw great photos and 'How to' -

cewyattjr · #**123** 01-28-2012, 05:13 PM

Great to read this.

I currently have my E300D down at the shop, and going through this ordeal, with the head removed. It's been back and forth with a machine shop and out of commission for 2 weeks. Now someone is working the weekend to try and get these puppies out of there, seems like the problem isn't the threaded part, but the body of the GP is just fused down in there.

We're also looking into just replacing the head itself, after all is said and done, but maybe we'll get lucky this weekend. It seems that these cylinder heads are actually pretty hard to find.

I can see the wisdom now of just pulling the glow plugs and replacing every winter, or at least re-coating with anti-seize.

-Chuck

Bio300TDTdriver · #**124** 01-28-2012, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cewyattjr

Great to read this.

I currently have my E300D down at the shop, and going through this ordeal, with the head removed. It's been back and forth with a machine shop and out of commission for 2 weeks. Now someone is working the weekend to try and get these puppies out of there, seems like the problem isn't the threaded part, but the body of the GP is just fused down in there.

We're also looking into just replacing the head itself, after all is said and done, but maybe we'll get lucky this weekend. It seems that these cylinder heads are actually pretty hard to find.

I can see the wisdom now of just pulling the glow plugs and replacing every winter, or at least re-coating with anti-seize.

-Chuck

Hi,

Good luck with the repair. I recently moved to Ashland, could you provide me with the name of the shop if you like them.

Thanks,

Chris

cewyattjr · #**125** 01-28-2012, 06:54 PM

Hey Chris,

We're practically neighbors, I think. We live in Holliston, near the golf course. I go to Bahnan's on Chandler street in Worcester, since I work at Clark Univ. I've been taking Mercedes Diesels to them since about 2007. They are really good people and very reasonably priced. Alfred is the owner and has been in business there for at some 40 years.

-Chuck

Bio300TDTdriver · #**126** 01-28-2012, 07:55 PM

Practically, we are about 5 miles from there. I was hoping for a more local shop, but Worcester isn't too far away. My brother got his undergrad degree at Clark years ago.

cewyattjr · #**127** 01-28-2012, 08:11 PM

There's always Snow's garage in Framingham, but the owner is notoriously rude, sorry to say. The Yelp reviews say it all.

I love working at Clark, it's a great place. It's worth the trip to Bahnan's they are good folks and will treat you right. If you tell Alfred that Chuck sent you, he'll appreciate the referall, for sure! He's worked on my '82 300d, replaced axles, radiator, power steering pump, oil cooler lines, exhaust repair, bearings, transmission.... the list goes on when you car is 30 years old. It's the new car that's actually harder to work on of course, Alfred stayed on this Saturday to try and get the bloody glow plugs out. Fingers crossed!

sokoloff · #**128** 01-29-2012, 04:00 PM

I still contend that having a hot engine is one of the keys to getting the glow plugs out easily.

cewyattjr · #**129** 01-29-2012, 04:14 PM

I wish that would have worked for me. I had read that and removed the hot manifold and tried it, but at least 3 were just plain stuck. Even at the machine shop, they've heated it and the threaded parts came out but the body of the GP is what was fused in.

It's been over two weeks and still not fixed yet.

whunter · #**130** 01-30-2012, 01:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cewyattjr

I wish that would have worked for me. I had read that and removed the hot manifold and tried it, but at least 3 were just plain stuck. Even at the machine shop, they've heated it and the threaded parts came out but the body of the GP is what was fused in.

It's been over two weeks and still not fixed yet.

Here is what is needed.
SPECIAL ORDER BAU Glow Plug Remover and Reamer Set,B606-0053KIT - PeachParts

.

dauber · #**131** 01-30-2012, 08:44 PM

PHP Code:


			
Here is what is needed.

Has anyone use this kit? Is it worth the money vs using the method described in this thread? I have removed one already with the directions from this thread and had success but it was alot of work. I would be willing to buy this kit if it saved time and labor.

cewyattjr · #**132** 01-31-2012, 03:26 PM

This sure is a chronic issue... just stumbled upon this eBay listing which admits of having the engine parts, because "the glow plugs were stuck in the head:" ebay listing

They ended up drilling mine out finally at the machine shop.

Whereditgo · #**133** 04-15-2012, 01:44 AM

Have one defective Plug and was just getting ready to tackle the job of replacing all six.... That was before I read this thread along with a few other related threads.

I am fairly new to the workings of my wife's new ride, nick name "The Tractor". Seems like a definite design issue that has some interesting work arounds. How to apply enough force to overcome excessive friction due to contaminants. While limiting the shear force as not to fracture the plug.

One poster seemed to be on track by attacking the carbon build-up from the inside by removing an injector and freeing up the carbon deposit. I read on a tractor forum a similar situation were they actually filled the chamber with a mixture of diesel fuel and transmission fluid to breakdown/loosen the carbon deposits. Has anyone tried this or similar and would there be any issues? Fluids would need to be sucked out with a vacuum pump prior to cranking engine. Or is this not practical? On a similar note read a post were the person did something similar, they actually filled there intake manifold with diesel and let it soak to remove the carbon deposits.

That along with bit of heat (to get thing flowing) and a good dose of PB Blaster from the top and a good time to soak should most likely free things up to the point at which easy back/forth pressure of the wrench and possible additional soak would get even stubborn plugs out.

Would be neat to take a small camera and look at the plug via the injector opening to see how bad the deposits are before removing them.

I would rather spend time letting the solvents work then extracting broken bits.

Any thoughts on that approach?

Bio300TDTdriver · #**134** 04-15-2012, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whereditgo

Have one defective Plug and was just getting ready to tackle the job of replacing all six.... That was before I read this thread along with a few other related threads.

I am fairly new to the workings of my wife's new ride, nick name "The Tractor". Seems like a definite design issue that has some interesting work arounds. How to apply enough force to overcome excessive friction due to contaminants. While limiting the shear force as not to fracture the plug.

One poster seemed to be on track by attacking the carbon build-up from the inside by removing an injector and freeing up the carbon deposit. I read on a tractor forum a similar situation were they actually filled the chamber with a mixture of diesel fuel and transmission fluid to breakdown/loosen the carbon deposits. Has anyone tried this or similar and would there be any issues? Fluids would need to be sucked out with a vacuum pump prior to cranking engine. Or is this not practical? On a similar note read a post were the person did something similar, they actually filled there intake manifold with diesel and let it soak to remove the carbon deposits.

That along with bit of heat (to get thing flowing) and a good dose of PB Blaster from the top and a good time to soak should most likely free things up to the point at which easy back/forth pressure of the wrench and possible additional soak would get even stubborn plugs out.

Would be neat to take a small camera and look at the plug via the injector opening to see how bad the deposits are before removing them.

I would rather spend time letting the solvents work then extracting broken bits.

Any thoughts on that approach?

My thought is to use biodiesel instead of the petroleum-transmission fluid combination. It is a good solvent by itself.

sokoloff · #**135** 04-15-2012, 08:32 AM

I would suggest changing them on a hot engine. Then if you find one or more that gives you problems, figure a way to work on it/them. The last couple of times I had to remove plugs, I did it on a hot engine and the plugs almost unscrewed themselves they came out so easily. There are two theories on glow plugs. One is to change them all while you're in the area. The other is to only change the plugs that are bad and not to tempt fate. Both theories have some good points. It's your call.