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  #1  
Old 02-22-2009, 04:51 PM
KAdams4458's Avatar
Mmm! Diesel!
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,420
Quick crash course on '82-'84 300D pre-purchase inspection wanted

I'm looking in to buying a complete running and driving parts car for my '77. I just don't trust the driveline in my '77 at this point, and think updating to a newer driveline may be the best choice.

I think I've found a potential donor car for cheap, but my personal experience is with NA OM617's... Anyone want to give a crash course specific to the turbo 300D's from '82 - '84? I'm not personally familiar with the vacuum modulated transmissions, etc, and I'm not 100% positive that I know what to watch out for on the later models, since I have never owned one.

All suggestions will be appreciated.

__________________
- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #2  
Old 02-22-2009, 05:16 PM
bgkast's Avatar
Rollin' on 16s
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Vancouver WA
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Not much difference really. It should feel faster and make sure it shifts well since you are buying it for the drivetrain. If it shifts firmly all the time it probably just has a vacuum leak, but use this as a bargining point. If the shifts are mushy that could be a bigger problem.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #3  
Old 02-22-2009, 05:23 PM
KAdams4458's Avatar
Mmm! Diesel!
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Snohomish, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
Not much difference really. It should feel faster and make sure it shifts well since you are buying it for the drivetrain. If it shifts firmly all the time it probably just has a vacuum leak, but use this as a bargining point. If the shifts are mushy that could be a bigger problem.
Heh. faster. That should be easy, since I think an auto 240D would run away from my existing car. She's a little tired.

Right. hard shifts are fine, I understand. At what point do I need to question a soft shift or flare, though? Some gears, all gears? I should have read up more on the later transmissions, so now I'm trying to play catch-up, and it's kicking my behind.

Any suggestions for actually inspecting the turbo?
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- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #4  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:05 PM
bgkast's Avatar
Rollin' on 16s
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Vancouver WA
Posts: 6,528
Question soft shifts if it noticeably revs up or "flares" between shifts before it grabs the next gear. I think 2-3 is the one that starts doing this most often.

As far as the turbo, pull off the U tube, grab the impeller nut and gently try to wiggle it side to side and in and out. It should barely move side to side and not move at all in and out.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #5  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:24 PM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,449
4 most important things.....

The 4 most important things to look for if you are considering a "keeper" car are:
  1. Rust at the jack points
  2. Blowby from the engine
  3. Rust in the floor boards of the back seat
  4. Rust in the hood drains
Good luck.
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Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
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  #6  
Old 02-22-2009, 10:05 PM
KAdams4458's Avatar
Mmm! Diesel!
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,420
Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
Question soft shifts if it noticeably revs up or "flares" between shifts before it grabs the next gear. I think 2-3 is the one that starts doing this most often.

As far as the turbo, pull off the U tube, grab the impeller nut and gently try to wiggle it side to side and in and out. It should barely move side to side and not move at all in and out.
Awesome, thank you!


Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
The 4 most important things to look for if you are considering a "keeper" car are:
  1. Rust at the jack points
  2. Blowby from the engine
  3. Rust in the floor boards of the back seat
  4. Rust in the hood drains
Good luck.
No worries about rust, as I only want the car for the driveline, and maybe a few other odd nuts and bolts. The only thing the car in question needs to look like it would fit to a Mad Max movie is some sort of flamethrower on the roof. I don't think it has a straight body panel, anywhere.
__________________
- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #7  
Old 02-23-2009, 03:37 AM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
Chairman of my Benz
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 4,159
If you have the evil servo on your car, you should think about swapping out the whole climate system to the donor vehicle. It would take some time, but it might be worth it.


One more thing, if your going to swap out the drivetrain, make sure you swap the rear end also. So you should also be listening for rear end noises. Unless your thinking of puting a taller gears like a 2.88 or 2.47 then that would come from different vehicles then the ones you mentioned.
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  #8  
Old 02-23-2009, 03:50 AM
KAdams4458's Avatar
Mmm! Diesel!
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Snohomish, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
If you have the evil servo on your car, you should think about swapping out the whole climate system to the donor vehicle. It would take some time, but it might be worth it.


One more thing, if your going to swap out the drivetrain, make sure you swap the rear end also. So you should also be listening for rear end noises. Unless your thinking of puting a taller gears like a 2.88 or 2.47 then that would come from different vehicles then the ones you mentioned.
I haven't decided whether to swap the ACC systems or not. I suppose it's possible, but I was under the impression that when functioning, the ACCII system performed better. Plus, I can always bend over and do the digital conversion for $700 if I stick with the ACCII.

Wait a minute... Is there even room for the evil servo and a turbo motor?

Your suggestion to listen to the rear end is a darn good one. I'll pay extra close attention to it, even though I have not yet decided on switching them out. I suppose it will get better fuel mileage if I do.

Edit: I'll be going to see the car on Tuesday. I'll be taking along tools, a little oil, some water, a battery, and fuel filters... Anything else to add to the list of stuff to have along just in case. The car is several hours from home, so if I buy it, I don't want to be unprepared. It's only been sitting for three months or so, but you know how things go.
__________________
- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #9  
Old 02-23-2009, 10:46 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 2,156
If you are looking for a car for just the drivetrain and parts you dont really need to worry about the body. I would look for car that has a good drivetrain and bad body so you can get it for cheap. Just check for leaks.

You will get a rough idea of the compression by driving it.
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1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)
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  #10  
Old 02-23-2009, 10:47 AM
bgkast's Avatar
Rollin' on 16s
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
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...and starting it stone cold
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #11  
Old 02-23-2009, 11:33 AM
KAdams4458's Avatar
Mmm! Diesel!
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Snohomish, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
...and starting it stone cold
I'll do you one better. How about I take along my compression tester? I bet I can convince the seller to let me test the compression at the glow plugs. It's not going to start well cold, because the glow plug system is shot based on the description. He knows it's worth nothing if the engine or tranny is bad, because the body is a wreck.

Positive note - The car comes with some special tools, including valve wrenches. It also has fairly fresh motor mounts and rebuilt injectors.
__________________
- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #12  
Old 02-23-2009, 11:38 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAdams4458 View Post
I'll do you one better. How about I take along my compression tester? I bet I can convince the seller to let me test the compression at the glow plugs. It's not going to start well cold, because the glow plug system is shot based on the description. He knows it's worth nothing if the engine or tranny is bad, because the body is a wreck.

Positive note - The car comes with some special tools, including valve wrenches. It also has fairly fresh motor mounts and rebuilt injectors.

if you do that to some people they may turn you away and sell it to someone else.
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)
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  #13  
Old 02-23-2009, 11:41 AM
vstech's Avatar
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Location: Mount Holly, NC
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looking at my two cars, I'm pretty confident that the turbo will fit fine with the evil servo alongside... however, that does put a lot of heat right near the sensitive thing... perhaps a heat shield would be in order there...
also, there is all the EGR stuff up front on the turbo motors that the 77 did not have... then again, the 77 had that giant york compressor for the A/C... be sure and look over the a/c lines...
fun fun fun!
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  #14  
Old 02-23-2009, 12:04 PM
KAdams4458's Avatar
Mmm! Diesel!
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,420
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oracle12345 View Post
if you do that to some people they may turn you away and sell it to someone else.
Hmm. Maybe, but the thing is worthless to me without good compression. If it's meant to be, he'll allow it. If the thing runs well enough to impress me, I'll skip it. We'll see what happens. I'm not even planning to attempt negotiating his asking price, because I feel it's a fair price for a good motor alone, much less an entire car. It's either going to meet my needs and he'll get full asking price, or it isn't going to provide the parts I need, and it will be worth nothing to me.
__________________
- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #15  
Old 02-23-2009, 12:18 PM
KAdams4458's Avatar
Mmm! Diesel!
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,420
Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
looking at my two cars, I'm pretty confident that the turbo will fit fine with the evil servo alongside... however, that does put a lot of heat right near the sensitive thing... perhaps a heat shield would be in order there...
also, there is all the EGR stuff up front on the turbo motors that the 77 did not have... then again, the 77 had that giant york compressor for the A/C... be sure and look over the a/c lines...
fun fun fun!

I agree that a heat shield would be a good idea. I don't think the servo would tolerate that kind of heat exposure very well.

Ah, EGR stuff. That reminds me, the EGR is apparently hooked up on the potential donor car. Err... I should look up the EGR bypass instructions. Could be handy for the drive home.

AC lines, good point! I'll be converting and updating the AC system, and having the original hard lines intact will make things simpler for me. I'll replace soft lines on principle, but having old ones on hand for copying will be very helpful.

Does anyone want to tell me what to expect as far as differences in the cooling system? There should be an overflow tank for turbo cars, yes? Radiator is different, but how different, I do not know. The monovalve nonsense is Greek to me at this point, as is the entire ACCIII system. I couldn't diagnose one if my life depended on it.

Keep the inspection points coming, folks. I'm starting to get a good list going.

__________________
- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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