#14 head - white smoke like it's on crack - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

a2aa · #31 03-24-2009, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Are the heads Aluminum?Either way it should be planed flat.

Yes , its aluminum and the mating surface will be plained.

Now for the turbo, any rebuild tips out there?? I've seen kits from http://www.gpopshop.com/rebuildkits.html . Has anyone done this with good results? I understand the importance of balance and was recommended to mark the bearings in reference to the turbines all throughout the intake and exhaust ends before loosening anything.

gsxr · #32 03-24-2009, 11:15 AM

With the head planed, you MUST measure the protrusion of the prechambers. If they are past spec, you'll need to buy the precision spacer to pull them upward, back into spec. You want to take off that absolutely minimum amount possible when planing. If it's flat already, I wouldn't plane it at all - no reason.

Turbo rebuild: Why? Unless it's leaking oil from the seals, leave it alone. If it is leaking oil from the seals, yeah, it would be nice to fix that. The Garretts seem to leak more than the KKK.

a2aa · #33 06-03-2009, 05:29 PM

Got a call from my machinist, previous owner used wrong antifreeze, "ate up" parts of the aluminum which lead to the failure of the gasket. Good news: NO CRACKS on the head. He will also replace exhaust valve seals and repair etched area of the head.

RECOMMENDATION needed for head gasket head bolt brand. will this work? GASKET SET

Does each gasket accompany a specific set of torquing instructions? Do I need to empty my "FULL" tank of diesel? it's only been 4 or so months since it ran.

gsxr · #34 06-03-2009, 05:33 PM

Elring is the OE gasket you'd get from the dealer, Victor Reinz should also be ok. The head bolts do not need replacing unless either: (1) the 12-pt socket heads are damaged, or (2) they are stretched beyond spec. The only source for new head bolts is a dealer (or online parts vendor that offers dealer parts).

Torque procedure is in the FSM, the same for any standard head gasket you'd use (it's a 4-stage procedure). No need to drain the fuel tank, just clamp off the hoses to the tank in the engine compartment if necessary.

sasquatchgeoff · #35 06-03-2009, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a2aa

RECOMMENDATION needed for head gasket head bolt brand. will this work? GASKET SET

Does each gasket accompany a specific set of torquing instructions? Do I need to empty my "FULL" tank of diesel? it's only been 4 or so months since it ran.

I had similar "pits" in my head - probably from the antifreeze an indy used when replacing radiator about 45K back

HEAD BOLTS: Reinz or nothing

a2aa · #36 06-03-2009, 05:50 PM

Quote:

The head bolts do not need replacing unless either: (1) the 12-pt socket heads are damaged, or (2) they are stretched beyond spec. The only source for new head bolts is a dealer (or online parts vendor that offers dealer parts).

At about <$1.50/bolt I think I'm going to invest on new ones. I guess peace of mind. My luck there will be 2-3 bolts out of spec that will initiate another issue.

I believe that most online products are made by reinz. On the gasket set, mostly Reinz as well.

Now the waiting game to when the head will be ready for p/u.

gsxr · #37 06-03-2009, 06:05 PM

The bolts are closer to $2 each aftermarket, and you need 26 total... that's fifty bucks you don't need to spend. If they're not stretched, replacing them is a waste of money. I did that on my first head replacement and never again since then. Every single used bolt that I have removed was always within spec, although I have replaced a couple due to chewed-up heads. Make sure you use engine oil to lube the threads & contact surface prior to torquing (not ATF!), chase all 26 holes with a tap, and clean them with compressed air...

barry123400 · #38 06-03-2009, 10:42 PM

The diesel fuel that is four months old you asked about. No problem even if it was a year or two old usually. Does not go bad like gasoline.

Lucky for you it was just basically the head gasket. Try to make sure the engine is properly filled with coolant. Not just to the line. You do not want to have a hot spot or overheat that head even once.

a2aa · #39 06-04-2009, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Make sure you use engine oil to lube the threads & contact surface prior to torquing (not ATF!), chase all 26 holes with a tap, and clean them with compressed air...

Good point on the bolts, I will measure them and decide. The lube was my next question, I didn't know what assembly lube to use. Will synthetic oil be a better choice?

Quote:

The diesel fuel that is four months old you asked about. No problem even if it was a year or two old usually. Does not go bad like gasoline.

Lucky for you it was just basically the head gasket. Try to make sure the engine is properly filled with coolant. Not just to the line. You do not want to have a hot spot or overheat that head even once.

I'm also going to remove the small oil pan cover that exposes that oilpump pick up and make sure it's clean and debris free. These are good suggestions

gsxr · #40 06-04-2009, 11:18 AM

Any engine oil is fine for the head bolts... just remember to apply it SPARINGLY. If you use too much, it can puddle at the bottom of the hole, possibly cracking the block. All you want is a thin layer on the threads and the contact surface. You don't need assembly lube for anything else, just smear a little on the cam surfaces when bolting that back in, that's it.

As long as you follow the procedure in the FSM, you should be fine. I think the old procedure (in the printed manual, or W126 CD) is easier to follow than the new procedure (in the WIS and W124 CD). They have the same basic information though.

a2aa · #41 06-04-2009, 05:46 PM

...so what you are saying is I still need assembly lube but only on the cam shaft upon reassembly, correct? Is so, what brand is recommended and where can I get assembly lube form?

gsxr · #42 06-04-2009, 08:40 PM

Wooops, sorry, I wasn't clear. No special ass'y lube is needed... just put some clean engine oil on the lifters, cam lobes, and cam bearing cap surfaces before you *carefully* tighten down the cam using the sequnce in the FSM. And just before you install the valve cover, pour a little oil over each cam lobe. That's it!

a2aa · #43 06-05-2009, 09:38 AM

OK gotcha! I do have the torquing sequence for that engine and the assembly sequence for the cam towers. Actually , I'm sitting on GO .All I need is the darn head to get back to me!

Rob124 · #44 06-07-2009, 12:17 PM

Since I'm about to do this job on my engine, a couple of questions:

The gasket set you mention is the standard one, correct?
If the head is getting planed, won't you need the extra thick version?

I'm anticipating at least the need for planing, and can see that I may need to work on the prechambers, depending on the clearance. Assuming I find no cracks (and I have nothing to suggest there are any), I'm wondering how much I could end up spending for head work. How much have you spent on the machine work on your head?

Just thinking about the merit of swapping in a used #17 head, vs cleaning up my old #14.

gsxr · #45 06-07-2009, 12:21 PM

I would avoid planing the head unless it really needs it. If you do this, the prechamber protrusion must be measured afterwards, and shimmed up as required. But the head gasket is the same, AFAIK. The small difference in thickness shouldn't cause any problems. The main thing to do while it's apart is replace the valve stem seals with new OE/dealer seals. The guides almost never need replacement on the 60x diesels.