I have new Michellin MXV4's. I have had them balanced twice. I have a vibration in the steering wheel and in the seat at 70 MPH (which is what I set the cruise control to on the highway ) I have done a search on the forum and suspect motor mounts or driveshaft U joints. Its been there for a while. I thought it would go away when I got new tires. It is fine under 60 MPH but if you drive that slow in NJ you have to stay in the right lane. Can anyone shed some light on this for me ?

Thanks,
Scott

If the vibration is in the steering wheel..........it's difficult to make a case for motor mounts or driveshaft support bearing or U-joint.

If........and this is a big if..........the shop knows how to balance the tires............it's time to look for worn front end components and possibly the steering damper.

To check if the shop is competent...........take the newly balanced tire and remove it from the balancing machine. Reinstall it on the machine at a random angle..........different from the original angle. See if you stay within the balancing tolerance. Many times, you won't...........and it signals that the balancing equipment is not running concentric.

What mileage?

Possibly the LCA bushings which are a known wear item on W210's. Easiest way to change is to get new LCA with factory installed bushings. I had slop in inner tie rod ends at 200K.

No stering damper on a W210.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

On my car the front wheel bearings died and gave a warning for quite some time that I confused with tire balance or some other vibration "short" due to a failed isolation component. When the wheel bearing finally really "went" the car started following longitudinal pavement irregularities. I had never experienced a wheel bearing failure before so I was a little slow recognizing the source of the problem.

Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

I lifted up the fornt end and jerked the wheels around. The right front had a little play. I pulled off the wheels and tightened the wheel bearing nuts a 1/4 turn. put the wheels back on and went for a ride. the vibration got alot better but I could still feel it in the wheel but hardly in the seat anymore. So I guess I should change the front wheel bearings. I see them on the parts site for 30 bucks plus shipping. My local dealer has them for 70 bucks. Is there a difference that I should know about ? I have done a front wheel bearing on a front drive GM car. This looks easier to me. I assume there should be no play noticable at all in the wheel. I am satisfied that the wheels are balanced properly. They were done the way it was suggested in a previous reply. Thanks for the insight guys. It really saves me alot of time and money. I have 117,000 miles on the car. Is that what can be expected of wheel bearings ?

You need a dial indicator gauge to set freeplay. Don't know the spec but believe its in the 10,000th's.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

I'm going for your car needing new lower ball joints, as the possible culprit. My '99 E300 needed new ones at 90K miles.

Thats a good point. It does seem to be somewhat related to road surface conditions. I am going to have another look at the control arm and ball joint.

Is there any way to assess this stuff: bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends? Will physical movement by hand result in a visible movement/wiggling of the effected part?

My car has always "danced" around a little on the highway. I've just learned to make constant corrections to counter it...

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

I cant find a way too check it. The only way I can think of is to pull it apart and get the coil spring out then with it unloaded you could feel play in things. Obviously that puts you pretty deep into it. I am just going to replace the front bearings and lower ball joints and see what happens. It seems that with 117,000 miles on the car these things have lived a good life and dont owe me anything. If I have to go further I will look at the bushings in the lower control arm.

I've got issues with mine as well especially on grooved concrete roadways. Evan's description fits mine too. About the time I think it comming from the front I change my mind and think rear end. Frustrating.

I've changed inner tie rods, LCA bushings and repacked bearings (x4) and tightened by feel. Was considering gtting a cheap harbor freight DI gauge and doing them right.

How much play should there be in ball joints? With the front in the air a couple of inches I can lift the front tire up using a breaker bar and feel an 1/8" or less movement on both ball joints.....can't see it, can only feel it with my hand on the joint.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

I can only guess that an 1/8 inch is too much. I will do the same thing as you did before and after I change mine and report back.

Just replaced both of my lower ball joints on the 98 E300 last fall and have done a bunch on my previous high mileage vehicles. There should be no play at all!
Jack up the car and place the front on Jack Stands. Get a friend, wife....someone to move the the wheel up and down with a crow bar while you inspect for movement with a flashlight up close. Then pull wheels side to side and watch for movement in the tie rod ends and lower ball joints again.
Start the car and have someone turn the steering wheel from lock to lock while you continue watching all pivot points for slop......That will usually give you some idea of whats happining and where. A lot of times its multiple items that have play that just amplify the problem.
Of course have the rear wheels securily blocked and the parking brake on first!

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FRED

Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini
Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K

I replaced motor mounts. That helped
Then I replaced the complete LCA with bushings and new bolts. An Alignment by M/B. That helped a LOT!
Then I replaced the rear shocks to stop the funny bounce at the rear on bouncy roads. Rides like almost new.
I also replaced the transmission mount.

I also had rims that came with the car that had 1m/m larger sized holes than the required rims. So I replaced all 4 rims and used the concentric spacer that aligns the inner wheel to the hub o/d.

Larry12
1998 E300
1987 300td

I think replacing your wheel bearings will be a waste of time unless you have noises or noticed an abnormality when you spin the wheels with the weight off them. Typically bearing failure results in a grinding or roaring noise and well below 70 MPH and usually favors one side or the other when turning.

The high speed vibrations are almost always wheel and or tire related. Even with new tires which are balanced properly you can have problems with wheels that are slightly bent or a tire which is out of round. I'd try swapping front to rear wheels and see if the vibration is the same or not to help determine if it is related to wheels or tires.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz