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  #1  
Old 02-27-2009, 12:29 PM
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Damaged mono valve pictures please

Damaged mono valve pictures please.

This is a common issue that many members will fix, sooner or later..

Graphic examples of bad units may help.






Thank you.

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  #2  
Old 02-27-2009, 01:00 PM
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I posted this pic in a monovalve repair thread somewhere here:




EDIT: Here's the thread I was referring to:
Mono valve question
Attached Thumbnails
Damaged mono valve pictures please-tear.jpg  
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
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1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

Last edited by whunter; 10-08-2009 at 11:55 PM. Reason: attached picture
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  #3  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:09 PM
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Here's mine when I swapped it out:

Attached Thumbnails
Damaged mono valve pictures please-valve14.jpg  
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 90k - mine - (OC-91,200)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 18k - wifes (OC-25k)
'01 E320 Wagon - 161k - mine (OC-165,000)
'01 E320 - 180k - dad's (OC-182,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 134k - dad's (OC-139,500)
'01 SL500 - 56k - dad's (OC-59,000)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 81k - Brothers (OC-88,000)

Last edited by whunter; 10-08-2009 at 11:55 PM. Reason: attached picture
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  #4  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:10 PM
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Left - Totally deteriorated, Right - Used but still good.


Right - Deteriorated and corroded, Left - Used and still good.
Attached Thumbnails
Damaged mono valve pictures please-sspx0152.jpg   Damaged mono valve pictures please-sspx0150.jpg  
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  #5  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:16 PM
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DeliveryValve wins! That car must have had heat issues for a long time.
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #6  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:26 PM
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I think partially damaged or completely shredded doesn't matter. I had essentially no heat in my car even with the slightly ripped one.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 90k - mine - (OC-91,200)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 18k - wifes (OC-25k)
'01 E320 Wagon - 161k - mine (OC-165,000)
'01 E320 - 180k - dad's (OC-182,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 134k - dad's (OC-139,500)
'01 SL500 - 56k - dad's (OC-59,000)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 81k - Brothers (OC-88,000)
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  #7  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
DeliveryValve wins! That car must have had heat issues for a long time.
Yeah, that $300 car was sitting at a shop for like 10 years before rescuing it. You should of seen the coolant that came out of it.. Mud. It works now.
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  #8  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
I think partially damaged or completely shredded doesn't matter. I had essentially no heat in my car even with the slightly ripped one.
Me too, but how long must DeliveryValve's been a problem to be THAT deteriorated. The diaphragm in mine had a tear but the rubber was still supple. His looks dry rotted.
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #9  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
Me too, but how long must DeliveryValve's been a problem to be THAT deteriorated. The diaphragm in mine had a tear but the rubber was still supple. His looks dry rotted.
Yeah I fear what the rest of the cooling system looked like.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 90k - mine - (OC-91,200)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 18k - wifes (OC-25k)
'01 E320 Wagon - 161k - mine (OC-165,000)
'01 E320 - 180k - dad's (OC-182,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 134k - dad's (OC-139,500)
'01 SL500 - 56k - dad's (OC-59,000)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 81k - Brothers (OC-88,000)
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  #10  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Yeah, that $300 car was sitting at a shop for like 10 years before rescuing it. You should of seen the coolant that came out of it.. Mud. It works now.
Good job. I hope you didn't have to deal with too many other issues like that.
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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #11  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:35 PM
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I don't have a picture but I bought 3 new valve repair kits (like to have spares) and they were bad out of the box. Nothing visible. I found you may need to test these (they were not Bosch) when new by:
1. Put them in place in the top coil portion of the valve
2. Apply 12 V
3. Valve should extend and stay extended

The bad ones either would not extend or they would stutter in and out under constant 12V. I was able to dissasemble and use the rubber portions.
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  #12  
Old 02-27-2009, 04:02 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
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If you buy cheap aftermarket stuff (non-bosch) thats to be expected. Were they cheapo made in china or something? Shame! Shame!
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 90k - mine - (OC-91,200)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 18k - wifes (OC-25k)
'01 E320 Wagon - 161k - mine (OC-165,000)
'01 E320 - 180k - dad's (OC-182,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 134k - dad's (OC-139,500)
'01 SL500 - 56k - dad's (OC-59,000)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 81k - Brothers (OC-88,000)
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  #13  
Old 02-27-2009, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
Good job. I hope you didn't have to deal with too many other issues like that.
Well.. Getting the car started was fun. The shop had all the injectors out, missing some engine parts. They claimed it was bad compression which is why it wouldn't start. I think they mistaken it with another car after 10 years sitting, because I put it all together and it started after a little coaxing. Runs good and I traded it to a friend for some welding work. His wife loves the car. :
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  #14  
Old 02-27-2009, 04:14 PM
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If it's primarily a "seal" failure that keeps them from working properly-- are the seals available, somewhere separately?? My valve "functions" but if you really nail the accelerator (like getting on the expressway) the heat goes away, so it CAN function... I'm assuming the seals have hardened or cracked, and the higher output from the water pump on hard acceleration essentially creates "blowby.."

If the seals are out there-- is there a "reason" to replace the entire valve assembly, if it's working??

AJ RN
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  #15  
Old 08-12-2009, 12:11 AM
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where is the monovalve located on a 560SEL 1991?

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