Beautiful new '82 300D, some issues... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

stateworkers · #1 03-02-2009, 02:24 PM

Thank you, folks.
I feel lucky to have your ear in this.
Especially since I'm doing this on a minimal budget.

Sadly, some of these questions got me a really haughty glance at the Mercedes Benz dealer shop, where I finally got shuffled around to 4 other uninterested people

before I figured I'd just quietly walk out.

I've been using 10W40 for engine oil, trying to follow the chart from MB's 1982 Manual that came with the beauty, and given my location (Northern New Jersey) where the temperature can be below freezing for a month more. Are there any caveats to that? I mean, should I exclusively stick to the 15w-n and up that say "Diesel" on the jug?

I hope to someday run some heating wires and a spare tank/lines to make the old bird burn WVO,

but I really have some wierd stuff on the car to address first-

The right rear wheel has duct tape wrapped around the cylinder just behind it. What's that about?!?!?
And -I think I've seen some reference to this on other posts- the auto shifting seems to skip forward two gears and revv before settling, If I am pushing at 40-60% on the gas pedal constantly, until it hits the fourth gear. But, if the car goes from "D" to the "S" position, it gets a crisp, quick gear change.
Is this some old car ideosynchracy or can I adjust it?
Wow.
Thanks to anyone with the patience and generosity to give me tips on these issues.

__________________

compu_85 · #2 03-02-2009, 03:32 PM

You might consider using a 5w40 oil. Oil technology has advanced quit a bit since the owner's manual was written

-J

pawoSD · #3 03-02-2009, 03:35 PM

Use ONLY oil that is DIESEL rated. Using gasoline oil in a diesel is going to do bad things to that engine!

In colder climates I would use a 5w40 synthetic diesel oil, where in warmer climates the 15w40 stuff will work ok, personally I use 5w40 synthetic year round.

But get that gas car oil out of there!

JimFreeh · #4 03-02-2009, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stateworkers

Thank you, folks.

The right rear wheel has duct tape wrapped around the cylinder just behind it. What's that about?!?!?
And -I think I've seen some reference to this on other posts- the auto shifting seems to skip forward two gears and revv before settling, If I am pushing at 40-60% on the gas pedal constantly, until it hits the fourth gear. But, if the car goes from "D" to the "S" position, it gets a crisp, quick gear change.

__________________

Duct tape? cylinder? You talking about the caliper?

Trans is slipping. Not unusual symptom. Sometimes you can get lots of miles out of it if you get your foot of the accelerator as it gets ready to shift. Whenever it overspeeds (revs), that's a sign of the trans clutch not locking in (the trans applies hydraulic pressure to a band to lock in the clutch pack). If you continue to let it do this, you'll wear out whatever is left of the lining.

Jim

Stevo · #5 03-02-2009, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimFreeh

Duct tape? cylinder? You talking about the caliper?

Trans is slipping. Not unusual symptom. Sometimes you can get lots of miles out of it if you get your foot of the accelerator as it gets ready to shift. Whenever it overspeeds (revs), that's a sign of the trans clutch not locking in (the trans applies hydraulic pressure to a band to lock in the clutch pack). If you continue to let it do this, you'll wear out whatever is left of the lining.

Jim

Sounds like the outer axle boot, leaking so it was repaired with duct tape

pawoSD · #6 03-02-2009, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

Sounds like the outer axle boot, leaking so it was repaired with duct tape

That sounds exactly right.

Sounds like this car has some expen$ive stuff coming up. You should sell it to me!

Wrong oil in engine.

Trans adjusted wrong (most likely)....it only has 117k on it. I'd do a transmission fluid/filter change ASAP to make sure that is not the problem. I'd have a dealer adjust it for optimal shifts too.

Rear CV axles are shot (if thats what the duct tape is on)

dieseldan44 · #7 03-02-2009, 08:17 PM

It sounds like you have a possible vacuum issue on the transmission system.

You've got a nice car that could last you 150k or more, don't even consider doing any WVO stuff until you have all the issues figured out. you have a rear axle job coming up with that duct taped boot.

Id look into a two tank WVO system when you get around to it. doing it a little more expensively now will save you big time down the road, if you plan on keeping it long term.

stateworkers · #8 03-02-2009, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimFreeh

Duct tape? cylinder? You talking about the caliper?

... get your foot of the accelerator as it gets ready to shift. ..

Jim

At least my instincts were right on that, I've been following that procedure and have to down pat. I can't even drive my lady's gas car now, I peel out after red lights and she asks why I suddenly slow down uphill all the time...
the axle job, if it is just a CV joint, that's not too terrible, I remember doing on the old Mazda 626. I know the bearing thing is an added procedure though, correct?
repacking, etc: j-curve of learning here I come.
The transmission slip, can the disc be replaced or is it the kind of thing that if I have someone crack it open (or can I do it? I have successfully changed timing belt on a dual overhead camshaft engine once

) I should just go whole hog with other stuff?
I am pretty much falling in love with the problematic turbodiesel, it's just too fun to relinquish.
I'm in for it, aren't I?

OK and am changing the oil to 5W40 synth first thing.

You folks rule!

mobetta · #9 03-03-2009, 11:08 AM

read up on transmission adjustement procedure- there is a 60+ page thread titled "it's critical......" that has good info.

take pictures of the car, and of the duct tape, and anything else you have ??'s about.

replacing the axle does not require any bearing packing, but you do need to get into the rear diff. way easier than a DOHC timing belt.

stateworkers · #10 03-04-2009, 10:14 PM

Will do!
thank you again, and great avatar pic. submarine attachment/conversion is way beyond my expertise, I'm very impressed.

Will

stateworkers · #11 03-10-2009, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mobetta

take pictures of the car, and of the duct tape, and anything else you have ??'s about.

Ok, I think I've got my questions somewhat clear (always an interesting first comment, that):

1.

What is missing there? is that part of the ALDA- which I think that has been taken out, see front and center, glaring for it's absence:

Also, the leftmost tube of the control for the alda is a duct-taped banjo bolt end:

How bad is that if it's really not there? I've read that some folks remove it to get better response from the engine, and I have evidence of a prior owner who was into loud music (wires running from the trunk to a missing amplifier and subbass of some sort, etc) and a big direct 24v for something amplifier-oriented, I guess:

so maybe this person was also into making the benz go faster?...

2. Does the '82 300D come with some stock block heating facilities? What is this plug

and the orange connector-looking end to it, which seems just long enough to get a bit beside the engine there...

3.

The seat, thank goodness, is roomy enough to fit me and my multiple layers on freezing NorthEastern NJ days...

can I sneak the old core out (since it probably was leaking?) and a new core in through the dash? under it?

I just know that will be fun.

4.
New boots, i imagine will be required...

...do they still make those two-piece rubber boots that you can put on without yanking the wheels and stuff off?

5.
really minor, I guess, but that there dumb finger,

guided by my no less genius skull, poked in there to 'adjust' the windshied wiper fluid nozzle and something went CFFK. like a pencil. so now when I push the wiper juice mechanism from the steering column, a certain area of the engine above that is rinsed in said fluid, regularly, as is the windshield of the three cars behind me.
how do I get that thing out? it doesn't seem to want to behave any longer...

6.

and for fun,
what is going on there?

Whew,
any help is immeasurably appreciated.

Thanks,

running-snail · #12 03-10-2009, 08:23 PM

Wow - you've got some work cut out for you....

#1 & #3 can go together. #1 is showing a check valve that is obviously blocked off to prevent the loss of vacuum. It should go on the two yellowish lines showing in pic #3. Might be best to leave this until you have researched door lock vacuum troubleshooting. Searching is your friend.

Looks like your alda has been disabled so banjo bolt line won't be required for anything (IIRC). Probably not a priority. can't help with heat exchange but suspect this will be no small task.

Pic #2 is a OEM block heater plug. It is impossible to see from topside with the aircleaner attached. From the bottom, just ahead of the starter, IIRC, you should be able to spot the connection for the plug. I would suggest using an VOM to verify continuity with the ends of the plug before messing with it. Also checking the business end at the block - but you can also check that by plugging it in.

I let others contribute. Best of luck.

stateworkers · #13 03-10-2009, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

That sounds exactly right.

Trans adjusted wrong (most likely)....it only has 117k on it. I'd do a transmission fluid/filter change ASAP to make sure that is not the problem.

Thursday I'm taking it to Silvano, the portugese mechanic/wizard of Elizabeth NJ, for the trans fluid flush/refill...
can't wait to see if it will do the trick- what a relief if it does!

He's going to disconnect the radiator hose that goes back to the trans to cool it, and have fresh fluid ready at the top, and then a person man the switch, starts it up and waits for the yelling. as soon as the old stuff looks like it is emptying out, put the new in from above. Seems pretty wild.