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#1
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How do you properly get the belly pan off from under the car?
There's got to be a better way to get the belly pan off from under the car than just taking the screws out. Being the pan is so big, the weight of it tears into the plastic where the screws go, which is probably why most of them fall off after a while.
New ones are about $250, but I was lucky and got a nearly new one ... for just $10. But I don't want to mess it up. The last time I changed my oil, I put a cardboard box under it, to hold the weight, so it didn't rip at the screw hole areas. Any better way? Thanks, Jeff 1991 300d, 131k |
#2
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The screws usually have a type of flat washer to support the plastic and prevent the problem that you're experiencing.
Some previous mechanic removed the pan and lost the washers. |
#3
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I've never had any problems so, as Brian says, your car may have had the wrong screws installed somewhere along the line. In my two belly-panned cars, the washer is at least captive if not actually built into the screw head so it can't be lost. If your screws do not have wide washers ("fender washers"), get some. The factory screws are available from the dealer but will cost an arm and a leg; you could probably get something similar from an auto parts or hardware store.
I've also used a box to support one end of the par while I remove the screws from the other end. However, the best fix (IMHO) is to use an oil sucker to eliminate having to jack up the car and crawl underneath. That way, the belly pan doesn't have to come off. Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#4
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The screws I have....
I don't see how the screws or any washers would have anything to do with it.
The screws I have, have a big head, maybe 1/2" to 3/4" around. Still, when you take one out (the screw has to come out to drop the pan), the pan comes down at that point. Take more screws out, and eventually you have one screw left, the whole pan then is hanging down just by one screw, and that puts a great strain on the plastic on that point, allowing that point to ultimately break one day if you keep doing that. Am I not understanding this properly? jeff Last edited by jbach36; 03-05-2009 at 10:41 AM. Reason: wrong |
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Have some jackstands around to help?
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91 350SD 14 F150 Eco 19 Fusion Hybrid 11 GT500 |
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I had the same problem when I was installing my new-to-me pan a few weeks ago. I don't think there is any way around it other than using a box or something. How often do you need to remove it? The plastic is fairly flexible, but I understand what you are thinking. I think there would be less stress on it if you removed the rear screws first, since IIRC the fronts are pretty close to the front of the pan itself and not holding a lot of weight.
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Dan 2005 E320 CDI - 246k 1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k Past: 1987 300D - 264k |
#7
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The 300SD is supposed to have a belly pan isn't it?
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#8
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The OE screws are fairly long. I have always loosened the rear screws about two turns, then removed the front two, and back to the rear ones. This allows the pan to hang loosely and flex less at the rear screws.
Normally I do this with the car on a couple of 2x6s so it's only an inch or two lifted, all I needed for the drain pan. For a higher lift I'd be concerned also and possibly lay it on me as I lay under the car (or stand with one hand on it?). Either way, I feel that loosening the pan at the rear first helps the stress/flex.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
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I've never seen one. AFAIK, they started with the '86 vehicles.
Or, are you referring to the 350SD? |
#10
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Quote:
This is how I did it for 13 years on our 87 300TD. Never had a single problem. The front pan nestles above the front bumper, so I'd remove the screws from the rear for the engine pan. Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles |
#11
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No, just my '82 300SD. I guess that's why mine does not have the pan.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
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