She's home!!! Just not running LOL
 

Hey all, after 8 months of being told by my mechanic that he was going to fix my 1970 220D, and after 8 months of nothing getting done, we towed her home today! :)

It has no keys though, was supposed to be ordered by the mechanic :rolleyes: but nothing happened there. I took off the glove compartment key thing to take to MB to have a new key made. Is this the same key as the ignition? Or do I have to take the door handle off?

After cleaning, this car came back to life, cosmetic wise... Seriously it looks brand new. Interior is mint and the paint came back after buffing and waxing and looks amazing. I'll post pictures later when I'm on a better computer. Just wanted to know if the glove box key is the same as the ignition key so we can get a key made for it. It goes in on the 17th to a mechanic who is actually going to work on it! I'm so excited!!!!

Anyone? The glove box key the same as the ignition key? Please... :confused:

Is the car too old to use the VIN for a new key?

My ignition key is the same as my glove box key on my W123 and R107.

Keys
 

If it is still the factory set up, it should be the same.

I wouldn't think so, but when I called MB about a repair job, they asked for my VIN and I gave it to them multiple times and she said it wasn't correct... So I don't what's up with them lol

The PO didn't replace anything and he was the only owner until me so it's still factory i'm sure...

I would order the key by the VIN. Work with the dealer until you get it right. Sounds nice!

check the vin on the paperwork to your car. I have had them make a mistake in the typing. Dealer will work with you to get the right keys.

On my 1970 220D my ignition key works for the glove box.

After checking the vin on the car to what's on the paperwork, read the vin to the dealer in phonetic alphabet. (A-alpha, B-bravo, C-charlie, etc) First time you do, it'll sound funny, but trust me it's the only way to read a vin. I've ordered parts for the bodyshop for years, with often the same guy on the other end, and it is still essential to getting it right.

you VIN shoulnd't have any letters in it other than the WDB. It should start with a WDB115XXXXXXXXXXX

? His VIN should have WDB. Thats not a VIN its a serial number, about 1 decade before VIN was standardized.

IF there are any letters, use phonetic alphabet
If they can't understand numbers, hang up

What to do????? ughhh
 

We got the keys made, they ended up being all the same and Lock Doctor made 2 keys for 45$ :D

Oddly enough my VIN doesn't have any letters. It's all just numbers, with a crapload of 1's and 0's and I think a 3 thrown in there lol IT IS a genuine MB VIN i'm guessing it's just so old that the VIN's were different back then.

There is one thing that is worrying me though, if I could get your opinions on.... Upon further inspection of the engine I now know it's going to need all new fuel filters, probably an air filter, the air filters that sit in oil which was a totally new thing for me. Also about 3 hoses look like they need to be replaced because of cracking. I KNOW the oil needs to be changed, the power steering reservoir looked brand new inside like steering oil never touched it... Also the brake reservoir has a small amount of fluid in it and I know it's going to need to be changed.

The radiator is probably going to need to be replaced because it doesn't have a cap and it looks rusty inside. I couldn't flush it out because the screw wasn't coming out and the medal around it started moving and I didn't want to break it. Everything from the Injection pump is disconnected and the fuel lines are all disconnected...... I don't know if there is any diesel in the tank, when I connected a battery the gauge said it was bone dry but it was bouncing so I don't know if it was telling the truth. There is a random vacuum line just chillin and I have no idea where it goes.

All we need this mechanic to do is just get it running.... Once it's running I can change filters and do all that stuff. I just don't know what's causing it not to work. I was told it was the injection pump, but when I talked to this mechanic I'm going to now, he highly doubts my past mechanic was telling the truth because he not only knew the guy but said that was REALLY rare to have an IP go out, and I kind of believe him seeing on how it sat for 8 months.... Not to mention it's probably going to need a valve adjustment and all that good stuff. I'm just worried this simple 500$ 220D is going to have a
5092750234897520398$$$ bill JUST to get it running. I'll post pictures of what I know already needs to be replaced but like I said I'm just worried it's going to cost an arm and leg JUST to get it running.

To add any hope, when I connected the battery it turned over very nicely, it almost seemed like if it had fuel and fuel lines connected it would of started and ran..... This car is a keeper, the interior and exterior are mint and pristine, it's just the damn engine :( :mad:

My dad doesn't think it will need that much, and if you look at it there is not much there LOL compared to other cars... Also playing in is the fact that I NEED this car because I have no car until it's fixed and the fact that California is charging me 235.00$ just to get it on the road legally and that's not including insurance........ What do you guys think? It sucks too because it looks so good I seriously just want to put the key in, start it and drive around and it sucks beyond belief that I can't. :(

Concentrate on getting it started before you bother with the radiator, brakes etc. Put on new fuel filters, prime, glow (I think your car has the famous "gorilla knob" for activating the glow plugs) and start.

Yes she will have the "gorilla knob" There is also an idle adjustment knob on the dash.
Radiator is very hard to find and be very carful when taking apart the housing for the thermostat when you get to that.