Bleeding a 1998 E300 Diesel
 

I have a 1998 E300 turbo diesel. I need to change the o-ring on the shut off value. I have done this several times in past years.

When I get everything put back together, I need to run the starter for 2 minutes to bleed the air from the lines.

Is the a way to bleed the air from the lines without running the starter. I concerned about burning out the starter. The car has 230K on the original starter.

Thanks

Try re-filling the prefilter cavity before cranking. That, having the nose lower than the rear end and more than 1/2 tank of fuel is about all you can do.

I will try turning the car around in the drive way so that the engine is down hill.

When you crank yours, does it take 2 minutes? Do crank it for 2 minutes without a break or do you crank it several times for shorter period?s

Thanks for the help.

All depends how much air got in the lines.

I usually crank 30 secs at a time, rest 10-15 secs, then crank agian. I'll do that cycle 3 times then let it sit for an hour so the starter can cool off a bit.

Nose down should help a lot.

I agree with a 30 sec max crank time, but would let the starter cool for 15 mins.

I had a heck of a time getting my 1999 diesel re-started after performing this same task.

Yeah it's really tough, especially when you crank and crank and it is *just* about to catch... hard to not keep cranking. I murdered a starter last year that way.

The simple advice here makes a WORLD of difference... 1/2 tank of diesel, arse up in the air and fill the prefilter

I'm about to change the fuel filter on my '98 as well. I've seen it mentioned here several times, but I'd like clarification on what needs to be disconnected in order to crank the starter without having it "catch". I plan to fill my filter with diesel prior to installing and would hope to have very little air in the lines. Thanks.

Nothing needs to be disconnected, simply turn the key to off after 30 seconds if the car doesn't start.

The only time I have had to crank for more than 30 seconds was when I replaced all of the fuel lines and the DV seals. That probably took 60 seconds of cranking. Usually, if you are just replacing a fuel filter (assuming you pre-fill it) or one o-ring on the shutoff valve it shouldn't take much more than 30 seconds to prime. When I change fuel filters it usually starts within 10-15 seconds.

nhdoc, thanks for clearing that up for me.

I found that placing the car on an incline (ie 5%) worked great. I cranked about 15 seconds and it ran. Biggest problem was that when the lines were disconnected, fuel was goint everywhere creating a big mess.

Just changed all three filters; tank,in-line and screw on canister; I'm having the same problem with bleeding(purging) the lines. So far the easiest way I've found is when you have the switch on for the glow plugs, keep the accelerator to the floor then crank with the accel to the floor,and when it fires up release the accel. I've also had problems with the tach not working unless I use this method. All this is done on level ground. Any suggestions!!!!

Yours must not be a computer controlled IP as in this thread as holding the pedal down while cranking won't do anything until such time as it starts. The computer's in charge of fuel until then.

You can basically follow the points in this thread if yours is self priming. Full tank, nose down, pre-fill filters, etc. If that doesnt do it try drawing fuel up from the tank using vacuum.

Thanks, another good idea. I have a 93' E300D Turbo 309K, no computer controlled IP.

Add that info to your "signature" (User CP, edit sig) and you'll get better input in the future. See mine at bottom of post.

Your's is a self priming IP. I forgot the part about after cranking 3 cycles to re-charge the battery if/as needed while the starter cools off.

shut off valve
 

Describe the shutoff valve mentioned. Is this the screw on top of the fuel filter canister spin-on? I've noticed it has holes in the screw.