|
|
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Sorry, I do not want to sound rude, but it seems everyone is interested in my steering wheel lock pin. I thought it was interesting that I couldn't see it, but not important. So in bold:
I can turn my ignition, I can unlock the steering wheel, but I can't get the ignition housing out. I'm going to bold that I can turn the wheel in the original post as well. I've led my poor diesel enthusiasts astray!
__________________
B - 1983 300SD |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
This pin
Push this pin with the stering wheel unlocked
It is a PITA till you have done it the first time Robert |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Go back to Diesel Giant pictures.
You will see him grinding out the pin (or called button) This pin is what holds in the ignition lock housing. That is why you can only rotate the housing 15 or 20 degrees. If you feel the housing with your hand, near the steering column, on top of the ignition housing you will probably feel this little button (pin) If it isn't depressed or ground out you will not be able to remove the ignition lock housing. |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
But the point is my lock is not engaged, and he had to grind it out because he couldn't turn the key. I can turn the ignition because my tumbler is out, and the wheel is not locked, therefore my understanding is, the pin is not engaged to the column, thus not locking the housing in.
Quote:
__________________
B - 1983 300SD |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Ok, I get it it. I don't have to grind the pin, only find it and depress it. Damn, don't know why I was stuck on the fact that if I didn't have to grind it off it didn't matter.
__________________
B - 1983 300SD |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
yes thats the ignition module, what I replaced. Have you figured out what to grind off yet? I could probably walk you through it. Can't find the post with a step by step of the procedure I followed, but its here somewhere. Unfortunately, or fortunately, there are hundreds of threads on the topic.
__________________
1985 300D Gretchen (Astral Silver) 220k 1983 240D 4-speed Evelyn (Orient Red) 203k TANSTAAFL |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
As noted above, your problem is the steering lock, not the tumbler. The grinding referred to doesn't correct the problem, it just gets the lock out. You then have to remove the guts of the lock, which is sort of like undoing one of those trick puzzles. Do not attempt to salvage any part of the lock, just remove the guts and reinstall the housing and you'll be good to go sans steering lock. The pin you have to grind off is recessed and hardened; you will need a Dremel tool and small grinding point. It's tedious but doable. Search for the procedure, it is posted. Good luck
|
#23
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I'll post another one somewhere showing where exactly to look when it is installed in the car.
__________________
B - 1983 300SD |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
I have the housing out. From what I'm seeing, there is nothing for me to grind off since I do have it out. Grinding the actual steering lock pin at the very end of the housing won't work since it is the mechanism locking up. If I want to use the original mechanism, I have to take apart the housing somehow (I'm halfway there, not sure how to get any further) and gut it? Not sure how to get to the guts as it seems fused.
__________________
B - 1983 300SD |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Here is where to look when the housing is still installed. I inserted a screwdriver in between the steering column and the dash wood to depress the pin. The ignition needed to be turned all the way to the on position, right before it would start cranking before the pin would depress.
Sorry that the pictures aren't all that great, but I hope it gives someone the right idea.
__________________
B - 1983 300SD |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
I didn't want to spend $170 for a new ignition housing, and I didn't really want to pull the cap off the housing to mess with the internals to see if I could figure it out. So I wedged a piece of plastic in the lock mechanism to stop it from sliding all the way over. When that would happen, the ignition did not want to turn. This is the lazy, cheap, fix or repair for your busted ignition lock housing or steering wheel lock. I'm not sure if I recommend this, or if you do, at least glue the wedged hunk of junk in there. I personally ground out the steering column to housing lock pin so if this falls out or fails in the future, it should be relatively easy to get the whole housing out in order to replace.
__________________
B - 1983 300SD |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
is it acceptable to drive with a bypassed ignition lock assembly?
the ignition key in my '82 w123 (240d) failed to work. i took dieselgiant.com advice (thank you!!!) on grinding down the pin potruding into the steering column. regardless the key still did not work! i bypassed the system by removing the vacuum lines and plugging them before starting...
glowplugs don't work but a squirt of WD40 does it everytime... I just short connectors on starter ad it comes right up and unplugging the vacuum lines to kill the car! my question is will continued use in this state cause any damage to the electrical sys or otherwise??? thank you for any input! john |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
EDIT: Sorry, it looks like 13 different threads AND your own in 24 hours. My answer to your question would be that you should probably fix the ignition, as your system seems like an awful lot of trouble and time. Grinding the pin off does not fix the tumbler, it simply helps in the removal and replacement of it.
__________________
B - 1983 300SD Last edited by bbeardb; 06-26-2009 at 12:41 PM. |
#29
|
||||
|
||||
You can grind the pin and get the assembly to move away from the steering column but the wires are also locked to the assembly and if memory serves me the actual switch is locked in place making the wire harness and switch non removable without turning the drum. The drum must be turned to remove the armor shield using a .o5 pin to trip the latch. This thing is WELL MADE and there fore EXPENSIVE to cut up. Sometimes a new key will turn it that one last time and it can be saved.
If you are lucky enough to get the drum out and then try to run it with a screw driver the latch will trip locking the steering wheel. You can move the latch back in position and use a screw driver to turn the assembly back to the right and replace the drum (right picture above or several posts back). It is not safe to drive with things jammed into the locking assembly unless you want to be unable to turn the wheel at some time or other. You could just remove the whole lock assembly and use a screw driver to turn the switch whenever you want to start it. Good luck |
#30
|
|||
|
|||
thank you moon,
i have already done what you have suggested. car starts and runs fine even without glow plugs. ignition assembly just hangs there steering is completely free. my concern is with the ignition switch not turned to notch # 2 but the engine running and the alternator charging that way is it possible for the electical system to incurr damage ? |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|